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 F class load
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geeguy
Member

USA
962 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  10:55:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking to try F class to see if I like it (before I buy a better rifle). I need a good load from the components I have in .308 for 600 yds.
Rifle - 22" barrel std, 1 in 12" twist, bolt action.
Primers available - CCI #200, Win LR, Rem #9 1/2.
Bullets available - 147 FMJBT, Sierra 150 gr. Spitzer BT, Speer 165 gr. BT, Hornady 165 gr. BTSP, Frankford 173 gr. BT(M72), UMC 180 gr. FMJBT match.
Powder available - IMR3031, 4064, 4198, 4895, and Accurate 2520.

I've never shot over 200 yards for hunting, so this is new to me. Any help would be appreciated.

iceracerx
Advanced Member

USA
8372 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  12:58:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Win brass
Berger 155 grain VLD
CCI BR2 primers
47.0 grains Varget
1:10 twist

I understand this isn't the twist rate you posted, but this combo works out to 1000 yards.
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62fuelie
Member

USA
982 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  4:32:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Invest in a box of Sierra 150 MK's load with any of those primers, but use the same one for all the loads. Try 41 grains of 3031 and/or 42 grains of 4064. Both will give about 2700 fps.

Re: Fast vs Heavy - the real concern here is what weight will your rifling twist stabilize. The 1:12 you quote is better suited to shorter bullets, thus the 150 SMK. The VLD's and heavier bullets usually prefer 1:9 or 1:10 twist. My .300 Win Mag with 1:10 is ok with the 220 SMK, but best with the 190. 2700 fps approximates the mil standard for the 7.62 round and I just list it as a starting point as a lot of the work has already been done to arrive at that for a base velocity, you will probably need to experiment to find the best combo for you rifle AND if you really get into it you may choose to build or buy something completely different (i.e. 6.5 Creedmoor or something else).
Good shooting

B

Edited by - 62fuelie on 01/11/2018 4:28:15 PM
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geeguy
Member

USA
962 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  4:42:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fuel: I have 150 gr. MK's. I thought the heavier the better (due to windage), but both responses seem to indicate the faster the better. My normal target load is 150 Gr. Sierra MK and 41.5 gr. IMR-4064. So maybe just bump up the powder just a little.

I'll try the faster method.
Thanks

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charliemeyer007
Advanced Member

USA
5557 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  10:01:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't have my books here so can't help you with the load. Past 300 yards I want a boattail. I'd start with new good brass say at least 100 (I buy 200 for rifles and 1000 for pistols actually - same lot).

Flash hole deburr and uniform them, slight inside neck champher. If they chamber, load them with whatever you got, FL size if needed. I generally use cast bullets for fire forming, Lyman 311413 or the Lovern design I forgot the number (short ogvie lots of grease groves). Shoot them. Trim to length, inside and outside champher. Scrap the primer pocket. Neck size the case. I hand prime everything with my 310 tools - it has the best feel for seating primers.

I have the best luck with full or lightly compressed powder charges. I like ball powder in over-bore stuff like mags, but I like the IMR series too. When seating the bullet I put it halfway in, lower the ram a little - spin the case 180 degrees, then finish seating the bullet. I like my bullets just out of the rifling. No marks in a stick match sooted bullet - not the same as Sharpie black.

A case/bullet run out tool could be useful.

Clean the bore before you start with a good solvent, I like Shooter's choice. JB's bore paste treatment doesn't hurt at least once. I use a fouling shot or 2 to clear the bore of oil - good use of odd lot bullets.

Yes you can weigh bullets, cases even the primers besides the charges.

I don't keep rifles that don't respond well to neck sizing only.
I haven't loaded 308 since back in the 70's. Put lots of ammo -
both reloads and minigun belt shucks, downrange with a BDL.

Keep good notes.
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nononsense
Moderator

10017 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2018 :  09:51:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
geeguy,

quote:
Looking to try F class to see if I like it (before I buy a better rifle). I need a good load from the components I have in .308 for 600 yds.
Rifle - 22" barrel std, 1 in 12" twist, bolt action.
Primers available - CCI #200, Win LR, Rem #9 1/2.
Bullets available - 147 FMJBT, Sierra 150 gr. Spitzer BT, Speer 165 gr. BT, Hornady 165 gr. BTSP, Frankford 173 gr. BT(M72), UMC 180 gr. FMJBT match.
Powder available - IMR3031, 4064, 4198, 4895, and Accurate 2520.

I've never shot over 200 yards for hunting, so this is new to me. Any help would be appreciated.


Shooting and competing in F-Class is a ton of fun! Relax, enjoy yourself but get as much experience as possible.

First, be sure to read the NRA rules for F-Class competition. There are two classes; FTR and F-O (open).

FTR is for .223 and .308 shooters only with a front bipod and rear bag.

F-Open is any cartridge .35 caliber and under. You can use mechanical front rests but only rear bags.

Both classes have weight limits, so read the rules.

Your rifle and twist rate will handle the 175 gr. weight class VLD bullets just fine.

This is a game of accuracy and wind reading, both are required but the wind reading takes practice, lots of practice. So develop a good load and go shoot. Don't short change yourself, choose any of the better VLD bullets and start testing. For my .308 rifle, I have a 1:8" twist so I can use the really long, heavy bullets which even at the slower velocities, usually shoot better groups and scores. But start with what you have and work up. Even the Sierra MK will shoot nice round groups with good wind calls.

I have been using IMR-3031 and both 4895 powders with good results for the lighter bullets.

This is a game of details and repeatability (consistency). Go shoot club matches or any F-Class match close to home.

Let me know if you need any help.

Best.








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