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 Competition Shooting and Reloading
 switching brass??
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Advanced Member

5607 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2017 :  10:24:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Going to try and work up a load for my new 300 Win mag using RL23 (as per nononsense' recommendation) pushing some 180 grain Barnes TSX's with new Norma brass and Fed 215's. I have a box of Remington 180 core lokt's that I'm going to sight in with, but I also have 30 pieces of factory Remington brass, that if I don't use, I'll probably just give away. Thinking about burning the Remington brass to start with at reduced loads to see what works, then switching to the new Norma brass. I realize that I'm mixing basic components, but at reduced loads I'd like to save the good brass to get started..Thoughts? Thanks in advance...


Advanced Member

5333 Posts

Posted - 10/03/2017 :  02:43:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
IIRC it's a new rifle so the barrel needs to "iron" in before it will settle down INHO. Several boxes of ammo is enough with jacketed bullets, lead projectiles will take more.

I would suggest that you do some research on breaking in a barrel.
You might consider something like a JB Bore Paste treatment right from the start. Choice of solvent is a consideration, I still like Shooter's Choice. I would limit my stings to like 3 rounds at a time and never more than 5 (unless I was being shot at).

My experience has been that firearms are individuals and what works best in one may not be the hot ticket in the next one even if it's the same make, model and caliber. That Remington brass might be the hot item. Keep good notes.
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9952 Posts

Posted - 10/03/2017 :  12:46:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Various brass makes have different capacities so I generally do a water weight to determine the capacity first. They will be different so you need to adjust accordingly.

All new, factory brass is under-size so fireforming is usually a good idea so the brass fits your chamber. This is not like fireforming a wildcat but is the simple process of working with a load while forming to your chamber at the same time.


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Senior Member

1416 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2017 :  07:15:43 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I sort brass hulls by weight then I de-burr the primer hole INSIDE the hull. A hull that weighs more has less volume inside and vice versa. I have tested accurate fineky guns (usually the smaller caliber guns) with sorted brass of different weights and seen the point of impact shift but the group remain good. Mixing the different weight brass would make a normally very accurate gun produce erratic groups.
But normally a 300 mag hunting gun is not as critical (finekey) and is inherently a accurate gun. It's usually the shooter that is under test when test firing a 300 Win mag, recoil flinch, jerking trigger, etc, due to recoil. On my own magnum guns I only test fire 3 shot groups instead of 5 shot groups due to barrel heat. If you have not downed a animal in 3 shots with a 300 magnum gun no need in further shooting because you will be closing your eyes or wiping blood out of your eyes when firing more rounds. (and you need to get a head start outrunning your hunting partner instead of standing your ground so as the bear will get him first)

Sorting and selecting for matched brass is not a fun part of reloading but I've found that knowing my brass is properly selected and matched helps remove one of the things that can cause a flyer.

I then keep the hulls labeled (marked with a permanent marker pen) as to once fired, neck sized, how many times they have been re-loaded and how many times they have REQUIRED TRIMMING.
I use the brass that has been trimmed more than 3 times for reduced loads. Them 300 mags shoot some real good reduced loads groups using 5744 powder and reloading at 308 or even 30/30 velocities for plinking and sometimes the scope does not even have to be readjusted at 100 yards to be on target if the 5744 load is selected for such by testing. (using 150, 180 or 220 gr bullets) Reduced loads allows recoil sensitive people to hunt with a 300 mag and not get kicked down and stomped and they can use their reduced load brass that normally has to be discarded.

AND Magnum Rifle brass is pricy now days. (make every shot count)

Edited by - Okie743 on 11/07/2017 08:52:08 AM
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Advanced Member

7396 Posts

Posted - 10/18/2017 :  9:03:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
personally I believe that every gun fires differently so I load several loads differently until I find what the gun likes best and my goal is same hole hits and when it happens that is the permanent load for that gun, the rest is all you.

tired not retired !
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Senior Member

1416 Posts

Posted - 11/07/2017 :  08:56:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Originally posted by pip5255

personally I believe that every gun fires differently so I load several loads differently until I find what the gun likes best and my goal is same hole hits and when it happens that is the permanent load for that gun, the rest is all you.

and H 1000 is also a good test powder for 300 win mag caliber and 180 gr bullet for best hunting rifle accuracy of around 1 inch groups or better at 100 yards.

and I would not fart around starting at reduced loads for a 300 win mag, I would load and test. You might be surprised how accurate your gun is straight out of the box if YOU can stand the recoil and do your part.
keep in mind you can use your old HV brass for Low velocity loads and it will last forever at 30/30 velocities using 5744 powder.

Very accurate and good for deer hunting out to 150 yards or so at 30/30 velocities and low recoil for Youths, Nancy's and Pansies using a magnum caliber gun.
(and moving the 5744 powder charge up and down sometimes the scope does not even have to be re-adjusted at 100 yards to be on target for both the HV and LV load and sometimes the LV load will actually group just little bit higher than the HV load at 100 yards. You sometimes get a pleasant surprise about such group accuracy of two powders being the same at 100 yards with no scope adjust required.

Edited by - Okie743 on 11/14/2017 7:26:47 PM
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