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Question for mechanics

Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
edited May 2005 in General Discussion
Engine light came on in my 2001 Ford F-150 w/4.6 Triton. Coded for EGR. Took EGR off and cleaned it. Cleared code and all is well. Almost.
Now when RPMS drop to idle, such as when slowing to and coming to a stop. Get a strange humming noise. Sometimes only last a few seconds. Sometimes lasts as long as sitting at idle. Always quits as soon as RPMS are increased. Seems to be coming from somewhere on driver side of engine. Has not tripped engine light. Engines seems to run fine. Any ideas what it might be?
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Comments

  • Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm at my wits end with this.

    I have a 93 Chevy 1500 Z-71 4x4 regular cab, short box, 350 V8, AT, PS, CC, A/C, PB.

    About 18 months ago it started shaking at about 45-50 mph. Didn't matter if I was accelerating, decelerating or cruising at that speed, it still shook. Took it to 3 different shops since. I've spent over $1500 on this with no results. Don't ask why I spent $1500, it's a very long complicated story. Maybe I'll tell ya some day. [;)][V]

    Anyways, the following has been checked and found to be good or replaced with new.

    Tie-rod ends (new)
    A-arm bushings (good)
    Upper and Lower Ball Joints (good)
    Pitman arm (new)
    Drag Link (new)
    Center Link (?)
    Steering column (good)
    Steering gearbox (new)
    Brake rotors have been turned and new brake pads installed.

    Even took it to a quality frame and alignment shop. The alignment is right on the money and the frame isn't bent.

    About the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the shocks. I'll do that when I return home next week. We put new tires, 265/75R16 (rims cleaned, tires balanced), on it yesterday. There is no excess dirt, mud built up inside the rims. I do have a set of aftermarket aluminum alloy wheels from American Racing on the truck also.

    I still get the shake at about 45-50 mph, BUT it's not near as severe as it was. It's more like a shimmy now. Still bothersome.

    Do these trucks with IFS need any kind of steering stabilizer shock like the older Chevy's had?

    Any other things I need to check?[B)][B)][B)]
  • Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I need a new A/C compressor on my truck. I would like to do it myself. I've got everything I need except a vacuum pump.

    Looking on fleabay I found this....
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R134A-AC-AIR-CONDITIONING-AIR-VACUUM-PUMP-A-C-TOOL-AUTO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34999QQihZ014QQitemZ330118085351QQrdZ1

    Do these work? Or should spend the extra cash on this type...
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FJC-4-CFM-Vacuum-Pump-HV-AC-R12-R134-Model-6910_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63700QQihZ011QQitemZ320111144412QQrdZ1
  • Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I hate electrical problems, but I have one now. 1997 Ford F-150, 4.6 engine. During the last cold snap I went out to start it and the battery was dead. Ok, no big deal. The battery was old so I replaced it with a new one yesterday. Put he new battery in and it started right up and registered a normal charge rate. This morning I went to start it and the battery was dead. Obviously there is a drain on the battery when the ignition is off. I did notice that when I hooked up the cables that there was a spark. That should have been my first clue. It did seem to have an "electrical smell" when I drove it yesterday. Maybe a hot wire somewhere? The cruise control has recently quit. Where is a good place to start? Thanks for any help.
    Tom
  • Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    We have a 94 crown vic with the 4.6 engine.
    At speeds of 45 mph and higher, the car jerks or misses.
    I took it in for repair and had it analyzed. They even checked the exhaust but nothing was found to cause this problem. The car was tuned about 5000 miles ago. Can anyone give me an idea as to what is going on? i thought it was the EGR valve but it checked out O.K.

    shoot2.gif
    Where there is no vision,the people perish!
  • Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Wife came home and said her car was "acting up." Went out to look and have her give me a run down. The power drivers seat won't move, the power door locks quit (won't lock or unlock with the key chain thing-a-ma-jig either), power windows won't move, ABS light and the Air Bag light both stay on. Checked for a blown fuse...nothing. Looked in the "Power Distribution Box" under the hood. Fuses for ABS and air bags were good and seated OK. The connections on the battery were pretty corroded, so pulled them off and cleaned them. After that, the windows work, but nothing else. I am going to take it to AutoZone and have them check the battery and alternator, but outside of that, I am clueless on electionics. Where else should I look?? Thanks.

    BTW....2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.3 flex-fuel engine.
  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    Is it a shake coming from the front end, rear end, middle? Can you tell? Does the steering wheel shake?

    Does it go away at over 50mph or get worse? Are the driveshafts still in balance? Is it stuck in 4wd? Do you have a stuck front hub locker? When you turn sharp and drive in a circle does either of the front tires skip? Are the U-joints on the driveshafts loose or tight?

    ______________________________________________________________
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  • MRBEANMRBEAN Member Posts: 562 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm far from a mechanic, but can make stupid suggestions as well as anyone. Are all pistons firing? tire pressures even? engine strongly secured? transmission geared wrong/slipping? Ah hell, it is a chevy. I don't know what ya expect to get for that kind of ignorance![}:)]

    bean.gifTo the rich, everything is a neccessity. To the poor, everything is a luxury
  • Big DaveBig Dave Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by rldowns3
    Is it a shake coming from the front end, rear end, middle? Can you tell? Does the steering wheel shake?

    Does it go away at over 50mph or get worse? Are the driveshafts still in balance? Is it stuck in 4wd? Do you have a stuck front hub locker? When you turn sharp and drive in a circle does either of the front tires skip?
    It feels like the front. I can feel the steering wheel shake from side to side like someone has ahold of the front tires and is shaking them. If it was coming from the middle or the back, I should be able to feel it through the seat......right up my spine.

    At 50 mph or above, it goes away.

    Drive shafts should still be good since my son and I put new u-joints in last summer.

    No, I don't think it's stuck in 4wd. Also, it does not have lock-out hubs.

    I can hear the front differential 'click' once when I put the transfer case in 2 HI and back up, so I presume it's unlocked then.

    Front tires don't skip in a tight turn unless it's in 4wd.
  • BittersweatBittersweat Member Posts: 294 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here's an off the wall suggestion; Jack the truck up to get the wheels off the ground. Have somone start it up and spinn the back wheels until the spedo says 50 mph. Look under the truck. Is the driveshaft vibrating (bent)? Are either of the back wheels trying to jump off of the axle ?
    Got a picture ? I think you can solve this one. [8D]
  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    Have you actually inspected the rims with the tires removed from them to see if they aren't possibly bent. They don't have to be bent sometimes but a couple tenths of an inch to produce this effect.

    Have you had somebody drive in front of you and look at the truck while you were driving it to see if it is doing anything it shouldn't be? Does it pull to one side or the other or is the steering kind of "wishy washy" at those speeds?

    My old jeep had a very similar problem as this one time. Vibrated like hell at 55mph in the front end. Turned out to be a wheel that took a pretty rough hit while offroading and it was bent ever so slightly. Enough to cause it to vibrate and shake but not enough to see it by eye with the tire still on it. Noticed it when I pulled the rim and laid the rim on a granite surface table.

    ______________________________________________________________
    nostradamus2.gif
  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    I was gonna say before to check your engine and tranny mounts to make sure they are ok. But I doubt that is your problem.

    ______________________________________________________________
    nostradamus2.gif
  • MRBEANMRBEAN Member Posts: 562 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Bittersweat, with all do respect, that is one of the dumbest, most unsafe vehicle related statements I've ever heard/read! Do you know what the first thing they told me starting out in a tool and die shop was? "NEVER walk under a die when it's on a chain fall." Your suggestion, in my feeble(sp) mind, is FAR worse than that ever could be.[xx(]

    bean.gifTo the rich, everything is a neccessity. To the poor, everything is a luxury
  • haroldchrismeyerharoldchrismeyer Member Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Actually Bittersweat is on the right track. To narrow it down, I would also jack up the back, and put it on jackstands, and block the front wheels(unless you have access to a lift, then raise it all the way around). Run the vehicle at speed. If there is no vibration, then it must be in the front. Then rotate the tires, and see if the vibration occurs. If still no vibration, then it could be a hub or axle shaft(does it have lock out hubs, and are they releasing?) You have to narrow it down before you can find it.
  • remington nutremington nut Member Posts: 961 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    this sounds like what would be normally a bent or out of balance rim... or mud caked into the system somewhere... you already said there was no mud and you have new tires on it already ... just start out of the blue? normally something happens then you notice a problem...you said the problem got less severe after the rims and tires? or just new tires?
  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    Please, please, please, if you do jack up the truck and run it at speed please, please try to do it safely. I wouldn't necessarily reccomend doing it with jackstands or jacks though.

    And don't climb under the truck running at speed.

    ______________________________________________________________
    nostradamus2.gif
  • john wjohn w Member Posts: 4,104
    edited November -1
    Double check the steering box for adjustment(just because it is new or rebuilt does not mean it does not need adjustment), other than that it sounds like you have a weak shock and once it starts to shake it will not stop till you slow down. The steering box and weak shocks are many a cause of this shaking replace shocks in front even if the old ones feel and look fine they could have a valving problem inside.

    It's All Crapola!!!
  • needmygunsneedmyguns Member Posts: 2,264 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    i had a car do this i had tire with broken steel cords in it.check tires?

    JESUS SAVES
  • TexasVetTexasVet Member Posts: 2,847 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    "Drive shafts should still be good since my son and I put new u-joints in last summer".

    Was the truck vibrating before you replaced the u joints?

    Just happened to remember that I replaced the u joints on my Bronco a few years ago, and picked up a vibration. Seems I had installed the u joints "out of phase" -- I turned them 180 degrees and the vibration went away. From that time on I always mark a drive shaft if it pulled and put it back exactly the same way.

    I had s similar problem a few years ago on another car, and the only way we could get it fixed was to spin balance the tires on the car with a Hunter Spin Strobe Balancer. They're dinosaurs these days with computer balancing machines, it would be hard to find a shop that could do it.
  • BlckhrnBlckhrn Member Posts: 5,136
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by MRBEAN
    I'm far from a mechanic, but can make stupid suggestions as well as anyone. Are all pistons firing? tire pressures even? engine strongly secured? transmission geared wrong/slipping? Ah hell, it is a chevy. I don't know what ya expect to get for that kind of ignorance![}:)]

    bean.gifTo the rich, everything is a neccessity. To the poor, everything is a luxury


    Clearly you are not a mechanic.

    york.bmp"No taxation without representation, Join the NRA"
  • select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,482 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It sounds like a speed sensitive problem... Tires... take them off one at a time and put on your spare.. One is probably out of round. It could also be your carrier bearing ( the bearing between your two piece drive shaft.
  • TRAP55TRAP55 Member Posts: 8,277 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Big Dave, Always have the mag wheels balanced with tape weights, they will spit the clip weights off.
    The IFS 4x4's have a weak spot in the front differential, the axle seal, which in turn takes out the bearing and destroys the carrier housing.
    Put the front up on jackstands and grab the axle. See if it will move up and down or front to back. Look for movement between the axle CV boot and the carrier. If it does, you found your vibration.

    7_2_120.gif
    "Aim small, Miss small"
  • The TinmanThe Tinman Member Posts: 928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I gotta go with the new U-joints on this one. I had the same thing happen on a '94 S10. Whipped off the driveline, R&R the loose U-joint, and had the shakes between 50 & 60 miles per hour. I checked everything---wheel balance, shocks, tires, turned out I didn't "index" my driveshaft yoke whe I reinstalled the U-joint yoke. I was supposed to mark the yoke with the diff spline, so I could put it back together the same way. Mechanic saw the old marks on it,flipped the yoke 180 degrees, and the shakes went away.
    Just `cause the U-joints are new, doesn't mean they are not the cause of your problem.
  • SuspensionSuspension Member Posts: 4,783
    edited November -1
    Know anyone with a similar truck and no vibration? Exchange wheels and tires with them, easy check.
    Check your leaf springs, saw a F250 that shimmied around 30mph and around sharp turns, turned out to be a broken leaf.
    Sounds like you have checked everything else. Every though it may be in the bottom end of the engine? Could a cam bearing being loose or bad cause a skae only at a certain speed? Just talking out loud here.
    good luck
  • Jimmy BossJimmy Boss Member Posts: 1,857 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Same thing in my 91chevy 2 wheel drive. Turned out to be the carrier bearing.

    JBoss......Fear No Fish/peace through superior firepower/If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you are reading it in English, thank a soldier!!!!!!!!!
  • hedgehopper62hedgehopper62 Member Posts: 636 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have to agree with with texasvet be sure your driveshaft is in time and carrier bearing is ok.tks hedge
  • BlckhrnBlckhrn Member Posts: 5,136
    edited November -1
    When I was selling cars one of the salesmen had a 67 1/2 ton that he said was bouncing all over the road. Told him to get it to the service dept. and check the center carriage bearing. Service writer told him not to listen to a salesman about service issues, looked under the truck and fixed it.

    New carriage bearing did the trick.

    york.bmp"No taxation without representation, Join the NRA"
  • GaBobGaBob Member Posts: 613 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I had 62 International Scou 4x4 and a 72 Ford Pickup 2wd that had shimmy at about 35-50 mph. I put hydraullic damper on tie rod and stopped shimmy.

    Keep Your Powder Dry

    The only criminal class that is native to the United States is congress.
    MARK TWAIN
  • buddybbuddyb Member Posts: 4,779 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I had a Chevy work truck that had a similar problem.I had it in several mechanical and tire and alignment shops but no one could find the problem until it sheared the bolts holding the steering box to the frame which had been loose the whole time.
  • The TinmanThe Tinman Member Posts: 928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just goes to show it could be just about anything causing the shimmy
    gawd, do I hate this kind of problem!!!!
  • haroldchrismeyerharoldchrismeyer Member Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It could be about anything, that is why it important to properly diagnose the problem by using proper methods, instead of guessing and then throwing cash at the problem. Sort of like closing your eyes to aim a gun. You might hit what you are shooting at, but you might waste a lot of ammo and never hit it.
  • oldemagicsoldemagics Member Posts: 5,755 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    my condolences dave, these problems can drive ya nuts.
    sounds like you already spent some major bucks chaseing down the culprit, so here are some diy checks.

    select fire is on the money about cord seperation or belt shift, check very closely COMPLETELY around all the tire tread, you are looking for any bump, even small, or a spot where the tread seems to shift a little from its regular pattern.

    265's arent that wide, but sometimes if you go to a wider tire than original it can make a difference, especially on the steering axle

    third check to see if the wheels are true, you can switch front to rear and see if the shimmy now seems to come from under your but, in which case one or both wheels formerly shakeing on the front is slightly bent. or jack the front end up and turn the wheel hard to one side, useing a fixed rod clamped to some sheet metal or the frame, slowly spin the wheel to see if it either pushes in or moves away from the end of the rod. repeat on other wheel.

    you replaced the brakes and rotors, tie rods etc. how bout the wheel bearings? a single burned ball that has a rough spot or a gouge can cause quite a bit of roughness.

    and lastly double check your rotors, some of the newer ones can be warped by un-even tightening of the wheel, as disk bakes never completely leave contact with the rotor surface, at certain speeds the "bumping" of the disk/pad can cause vibration, though usually, unless the caliper will not retract fully it will only go through the shimmy once untill you step on the brake and push it out again
  • kiwibird1kiwibird1 Member Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I had the same problem with a 94 chevy berretta and it turned out to be the strut bearings. At least that is what the mechanics said.

    Greg.

    Takeoffs are optional, landings are mandatory.
    DC9L.jpgeaws.gifwings2.gif
  • MossbergboogieMossbergboogie Member Posts: 12,211
    edited November -1
    ya sounds like your having large problems. Id say u joint. or tires are out of balance. Even if you did just replace them they can still go bad. Most of the parts in the front end are no longer geasable which is stupid but manufatures have to sell parts. I have a squeak in my front and someone said it might be a steering bushing. all kinds of parts if its a four wheel drive check the CV joints.

    If it Flies it Dies
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 13,200
    edited November -1
    The rotors were turned not replaced. They could be out of balance.
  • kingjoeykingjoey Member Posts: 8,636
    edited November -1
    Don't run the tires at that speed with them jacked off the ground, not only is it dangerous, but without the tires in contact with the ground there is a tendency for them to come apart from centrifrugal force. The contact with the ground prevents the tires from doing this. Most tires won't do better than 35 mph without coming apart or having ply separation. That being said, I would check the transmission mount and the two little transfer case mounts (common problem) and the driveshafts. I would send the driveshafts out for balancing, sometimes they get slightly twisted from torque or impact with stuff offroad. You might also check the back axle. Some of the GM trucks that use the Dana axle or use the GM axle that is similar in design will get a vibration when the rear wheel bearings are worn. The bearing rollers ride directly on the halfshaft and if you get some clearance between the halfshaft and the rollers due to wear, the rear wheels will wobble ever so slightly, doesn't seem like much when you look at it, but it is very noticeable when you drive.

    Love them Beavers
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  • BittersweatBittersweat Member Posts: 294 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Actually to look for a bent rear driveshaft, you don't need to spin the wheels any faster than with the engine at idle. Nor do you need to actually crawl under the truck. I meant to say only crank the indicated speed up to 50 mph for a short time to do a quick and dirty check of the wheel balance and bearings. [8D]
  • Queen of SwordsQueen of Swords Member Posts: 14,355
    edited November -1
    1) if it's a 2 piece d-shaft, could be out of phase. check front and back. make sure that the caps at each end are 'in line' with with the ones on the other end. (usually a dodge, but possible on your truck.

    2) I know this sounds crazy, but really worth a shot. could be torque converter lock up shudder. 1st, replace the fuel filter. if the trans is an 'e4ld' automatic trans, unbelieveably, a plugged filter will cause the trans to screw up. I've seen a lot of tranny's replaced, or attempted repair done with no improvement. Turns out that a partially clogged filter will wreak havoc with trans function. Also, at Advance auto parts, they sell a product called 'Trans-X' comes in a pint.( they also have a Trans fluid from the same company. you want the addative). Pretty good chance that it will cure your problem, as you've looked everywhere else.


    PS this is rcrxmike_2, i didn't re-log.




    "Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocrities. The latter cannot understand it that the former does not submit to hereditary predjudices, but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence." - Albert E.

    On my tombstone:"Keep you eyes on the road, your hands upon the wheel..."the Lizard King
  • 1FMJ1FMJ Member Posts: 1,618 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check out the rear end fluid 90 weight,when this stuff gets old and broken down it will turn grey and bubbly,
    The bubbles will make the ring and pinion bounce around causing a fibration in your truck. This has happened to me,also GM recomends that the rear end dope be changed out every 25,000 miles.
    Your repairs do not list anyone checking out the rear end fluid.
    I also work at American Axle where the rear end drive line is made in Detroit.
    Sometimes the simple things will cost the unknowing big bucks.<1fmj>
  • easygo6easygo6 Member Posts: 1,465 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In my opinion needmyguns is on the right track!!![;)]
  • dwhitwo254dwhitwo254 Member Posts: 174 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    several things can cause this. I am not expert and no mechanic but had cars/trucks do this.

    My jeep did it after sitting all summer...cause was dirt in the spark plugs. Another time it was the engine mounts, needed replacing.
    Maybe not your problem but would check it just to be sure.
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