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Muzzle Brake help needed, please..

Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
edited May 2009 in General Discussion
[?] Is there a web site to go to for how to make your own muzzle break? My buddy and I made up a couple for our 22-250 varmint rifles and seem to be having grouping problems. Accuracy has gone to pot, with and without the brake. I realize the barrel harmonics have changed and any assistance would be appreciated...Thanks!
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Comments

  • quickmajikquickmajik Member Posts: 15,576 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Did you cut threads into the barrel?

    If so it helps to recut the crown.


    What diameter did you turn the barrel down to minus threads?


    Can you post pics of the devices?
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  • 1stTankerSki1stTankerSki Member Posts: 16 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by quickmajik
    Did you cut threads into the barrel?

    If so it helps to recut the crown.


    What diameter did you turn the barrel down to minus threads?


    Can you post pics of the devices?


    It helps if you have a metal lath, that has a bore large enough to chuck a rifle barrel, Once you select the muzzle brake, measure the threads, turn same on the barrel. Allow for bullet clearance throgh the brake, if boring same.

    Turn the crown also, after the threads are cut.

    If you are a machinist you'll get the dia. right ! Or go back to the wood lath, and turn candle sticks.

    Do a search on-line for all the pictures you want!

    Muzzle brakes can be found in any gunsmithing catalog !

    Good luck !

    Ski
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  • mogley98mogley98 Member Posts: 18,291 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    usually the pedal on the left unless that is the clutch. Other wise you should use a rag to shut them up
    Why don't we go to school and work on the weekends and take the week off!
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  • quickmajikquickmajik Member Posts: 15,576 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you are a machinist you'll get the dia. right ! Or go back to the wood lath, and turn candle sticks.

    [:D]
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  • FEENIXFEENIX Member Posts: 10,559 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Try http://www.the-long-family.com/making_a_muzzle_brake.htm
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  • Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yes, I cut threads into the SS bull barrel. I don't know how to post pics on this site, so I "listed" the brake for sale on GUNBROKER auction # 130014761 along with 6 pictures. The dimensions are:

    Over all length of brake 2.3875
    Barrel dia. at cut off 0.831
    Barrel dia. at threads 0.475
    Dia. of front end of exit hole 0.278
    Dia. of hole at rear 0.457
    Depth of back bored hole 1.204
    Dia. of side holes 0.307
    Dia. of top holes 0.186
    No holes on bottom

    Is there a "magic" formula for the internal dimensions on brakes? Any help is appreciated. Thanks......[:I]
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  • 11BravoCrunchie11BravoCrunchie Member Posts: 33,423 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yeah, there is a magic formula. It's called:

    "Don't f*** with it if it works fine the way it is!"
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  • Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007 ✭
    edited November -1
    +

    D.
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  • mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    The exit hole is to big--- much over .020 over bullet diameter will raise havoc with accuracy..
    The threads on the barrel must be concentric to the bore, in other words, dialed into no more than .0005 off center.....
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  • 11b6r11b6r Member Posts: 16,584 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Excuse me? A muzzle brake for a 22-250?



    Why? [?]
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  • Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the positive comments received thus far.

    THE reason for a muzzle brake on a 22-250 is to minimize the muzzle jump so the shooter can see the downrange action thru the scope. On prarie dogs, it's the hit, flip, and red mist factor.

    I have been noticing that there seem to be some people with nothing better to do than make off hand comments on this web site and plug the system with useless dribble....not venting or flaming, just my observation.

    Still looking for any additional input on my brake.....thanks again ..[:)]
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  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,354 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Too late now unless you cut it all off and start over, but when I wanted to eliminate muzzle jump on my .223 PD gun (same reason - to always see the hit) I had it ported by EDM. It's very effective without adding any weight or bulges.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
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  • Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Rocky....

    Trying to understand...why do you say it's too late? [?]

    I can always cut the threads off and start over. Thanks...
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  • BeeramidBeeramid Member Posts: 7,264 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Ain't that what he said[?]
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  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    As Mrbruce stated, I see several problems with the design.

    First, the bore dia is way too large. no more than .020" over bullet dia is appropriate, and I usually would like no more than .015".

    Next, you have varying dia gas deflection holes. This will not allow the stabilization to occur on the base of the bullet with equal gasses all the way around.

    All my breaks have the same size holes for gas deflection as well as much tighter tolerances at the muzzle in regards to dia.
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  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,354 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ...unless you cut it off...

    Unless you have two inches of threaded area, that's what I'd do.

    Cut it, re-crown it and get it EDM ported. Two tips: mine is ported with two trapezoidal ports at a 45-degree angle upwards plus two smaller slit ports opposed and horizontal. The two horizontal ports do make it loud for any shooting buddy, and they contribute nothing. In hindsight I would have opted only for the upwards ports to minimize the jump.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
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  • Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sounds like I need to make another brake with different hole pattern and smaller dia. exit hole. Thanks for the input! [:)]
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  • Rocky RaabRocky Raab Member Posts: 14,354 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Or make a false brake (the correct word) that's just a threaded sleeve of barrel diameter. Thread it on, sweat it with solder and then polish it down until it's invisible. After that, port it behind the joint.
    I may be a bit crazy - but I didn't drive myself.
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  • Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Now, that's thinking outside the box...great idea!!!!!
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  • Redbear57Redbear57 Member Posts: 68 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Whoops, forgot to ask....

    Should the POI be the same with and without a muzzle brake? Or, will the velocities be slightly different and subsequently the POI be slightly different? Thanks.....
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  • richbugrichbug Member Posts: 3,650
    edited November -1
    How tight did you tighten it up when you installed it? I would bet you over tightened it because I don't see a crush washer on your barrel?

    Over tightening can distort the rifling at the junction of the threads and solid part of the barrel.

    Re-thread it, get a Miculek brake for an AR-15 along with a crush washer and try again(1/2"-28TPI RH).
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  • quickmajikquickmajik Member Posts: 15,576 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Barrel dia. at threads 0.475

    That sounds like a hole lot of metal to remove from a rifle shooting at that kind of pressures. but I could be wrong.


    well, good luck, I have noticed that an inverted cone on the inside of the front of the exit baffle can stop some felt recoil.

    I'd advise you to say above .475, try .50"-.750" BD@T if you try it again and study up on crowns.

    And if you cant recrown it, you are still not gonna get the best result possible.
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