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reloading .223

telohftelohf Member Posts: 913 ✭✭
edited January 2012 in Ask the Experts
I have a heavy barreled DPMS in .223 that I have set up for target/varmit shooting. So far I have only ran my handloads through it(55gr Vmax with 24 grs of H335)and it shoots very accurately. But after about 2-3 mags the rounds start to stick in the chamber due to what I would guess to be a dirty chamber.

My question is should I be reloading the rounds with a small based dies because of the fouling/sticking issue? And is this chamber chrome lines and how would I tell? thanks for your time.

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    telohftelohf Member Posts: 913 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just preparing for my first reloads ever. I tumbled the .223 brass for 2-hours and it came out to my satisfaction. Upon close inspection, I noticed some cases retained a piece of the corncob media in the primer pocket. Is there a tool to remove this particle or should tumbling be done after the primer is removed. Any help is appreciated.
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    tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    telofh,

    Yes, I always load with a small base die for my 223, and 308 AR's. I have no problems. You have to make sure they are trimmed to length though, as they will grow quickly.

    If you have a heave varmint barrel, especially if it is stainless, it is not chrome lined. On another note, replace your extractor, extractor spring, and extractor spring buffer, to make sure you have enough grip on th case rim.

    Best
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    62fuelie62fuelie Member Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What is your barrel twist? Most heavy targets are 1:7 to 1:9 and will work well with heavier bullets than your 55. The extra weight may result is a little more back pressure on the gas port and a bit of extra impetus to the bolt group. Your load is about 1.9 grains light of max according to my Sierra manual, so you have some room to move up. If your barrel is chrome lined it should show a circle/halo of chrome at the muzzle - this is hard chrome not bumper chrome so it will be a matte silver. If you run a patch on a .40 cal bore brush into the chamber and it comes out dirty you may be getting fouling build-up in the chamber. This shouldn't happen in 60-90 rounds on a rifle designed for combat. There is a simple "D" shaped rubber shim that can be put under your extractor to give it extra bite pressure on the case rim. I also, always use small base dies on rounds for a semi-auto action.
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    telohftelohf Member Posts: 913 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Ok thanx for the info. I cant see that it is chrome lined and I will buy some small base dies for the rifle. The twist is 1:9 and should I have to change the extractor etc so soon? Its a fairly new upper with only about 200-300 rds through it so far.
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    GUNFUNCOGUNFUNCO Member Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If your load is too light, the brass may not be swelling up to completely seal the hot gasses from coming back around the front of the cartridge case and causing your chamber to get dirty more rapidly.

    Try some factory ammo and compare the brass. If yours is sooty after firing, you may want to increase your powder a bit (bit still in the safe range.
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    B17-P51B17-P51 Member Posts: 2,215 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Most DPMS barells are stamped on the underside near the muzzle as to the twist and will state if it is chrome lined
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