In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
Options

aluma-hyde (sp?)

rmillrmill Member Posts: 595 ✭✭✭✭
edited September 2008 in Ask the Experts
Aluma-hyde: Anybody on here ever use this stuff? I gotta aluminum framed revolver that was originally finished (anodized) gloss black and needs re-finished. Has a blued barrel and cylinder (that will get re-blued as needed). Just wondering if aluma-hyde was good or bad by experience...? Thanks!
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • Options
    Bill DeShivsBill DeShivs Member Posts: 1,264 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Aluma Hyde will darken aluminum, but it will not look like anodizing at all, nor does it wear well. It's for covering scratches.
    You have 4 options with your aluminum frame:re-anodizing, plating, strip the anodizing completely, or leave it alone.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    rmillrmill Member Posts: 595 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I wonder if we're talking about the same stuff? Brownells said this is like dura-coat, its an epoxy type paint spray finish I think? Why wouldn't it cover aluminum if that's what it's designed for? Have I called it the wrong name maybe?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    260260 Member Posts: 1,134 ✭
    edited November -1
    very good stuff. if you follow the instructions, should not be a problem. i use it in my shop all the time.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    BHAVINBHAVIN Member Posts: 3,490 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have used the Aluma-Hyde II in several colors with very good results. If you follow the directions and I have found out clean the surface to be painted several times you will be happy.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    Wehrmacht_45Wehrmacht_45 Member Posts: 3,377
    edited November -1
    Aluma Hyde II is better than the original. I have used it on my motorcycle as well as with guns. Good stuff that wears like KG or Duracoat.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    Bill DeShivsBill DeShivs Member Posts: 1,264 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Very sorry! I was thinking of Birchwood Casey Aluma Black!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    Wehrmacht_45Wehrmacht_45 Member Posts: 3,377
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Bill DeShivs
    Very sorry! I was thinking of Birchwood Casey Aluma Black!


    Yeah that stuff does suck!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    rmillrmill Member Posts: 595 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Oh yeah, aluma-black, I tried THAT stuff once. Once. Well, I think I'm gonna get some of this hyde II stuff and give it a whirl... One place I read from said that you SHOULD NOT remove anodizing because you lose the 'strength' of the part? That don't sound right... What do you guys think? You suppose this hyde II will still 'stick' even if the anodizing is left on? Opinions?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    Bill DeShivsBill DeShivs Member Posts: 1,264 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Anodizing does more than color the part. It adds a layer of extremely hard, thin layer of aluminum oxide to the surface of the aluminum. Even when the color wears off, the AO layer is still there.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Options
    rmillrmill Member Posts: 595 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    OK, I get that I guess. How do you apply this aluma-hyde then? Can it be applied OVER the anodizing, since that's where the strength lies? OR is the AO 'layer' mostly for corrosion protection against oxides? Is it an actual strengthen-ing for the aluminum or does it just provide corrosion resistance for the aluminum?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.