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AR15

SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
edited October 2008 in Ask the Experts
i was looking at olympic models and was wondering what the dif. was between a plinker and regular ar15.....and what is a good economical maker of ar15(low money high accuracy...if possible).

thanks,

bandit

If you never try you will always fail.

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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i'm looking at a colt ar15 at a gun shop . how can i date the gun .it is a sporter with the serial # 016296 . the price of the gun screams pre-ban and would only be worth thecost if it turns out to be so .it is in fine condition , it has a 16" barrel with what i think is a flash suppresor , a round foreend ,but no bayonet lug .the asking price is $1300 + tax. is that a fair price ? thanks for any help provided , steve
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    hi my name is donnie i'm a cpl. in the marine corps i'm currently in iraq hating this place poophole anyways my question is i bought an ar-15 made by bushmaster and i was wondeing how i can make it shoot burst like my m-16 that i currently carry over here the only difference to me that i can tell is the lower reciever where the safety is there any thing that i can buy to make it shoot on burst or can i buy a new lower reciever some where that has the trigger assemly that already has the burst feature onit??????? thanks
    cpl. donnie k
    SEMPER FI
    USMC
    274
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm looling for a compairision between the S&W ar and the Bushmaster M4 A3 16inch carbine, would also like to understand the differance in the patrolmans model.
    Thanks for any help you can give me
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i need some help with picking out an ar15. im not really sure which are good and which are not. what im looking for in on is a top handle with sight, 223 caliber, and id like to get the four mounting rail forearm for $1000 or less. it will be used for target and coyotes. any input in great. thanks
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I really need an unbiased opinion on what is the best configuration for an AR without having to empty out my bank account.

    Which model is easiest to upgrade from say a basic or starter version?
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i bought a couple of stripped a1 uppers the only marking on them are tht letters L and M was wandering if anyone knows who the manufacturer is they are unfired nib
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm looking to purchase my first AR15 (Olympic or Rock River Arms varmint). Being new to this, I'm trying to look at all the possibilities. I'm leaning towards purchasing an upper & lower assembly From RRA. I can save around 75.00. What will I need in addition to complete the rifle? How about Accuracy? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have an ar15 with both a .223 and .45acp upper. The 45acp upper is new and I reload 45acp. Therefore, I want to reuse the spent brass.
    Anyone have experience with ar15 brass catchers as sold by Cabelas, Midway, Natchez, etc?
    Just wonder if they work well, sort of or not at all. My questions come from wondering if the "mesh net" interferes with the ejection of the spent brass???
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    flyingtorpedoflyingtorpedo Member Posts: 1,301 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You may want to say what you want to use it for and what you budget for it is so someone can give you a better answer.
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    MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,779 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The question is too broad for a good response. Most brands use forged uppers & lowers which are close enough to spec to accept about any add on. If you just want something that goes bang,bang and is easy to handle, get a light/medium weight 16" barrel, flattop upper w/handle, and collapsible stock. From there you can go many ways. If you want more accuracy/range, go with a 20" barrel heavier under the handguard, full flatop, and a solid stock for stability. I have several brands of uppers and lowers which mostly interchange. A couple of combos are too tight to close but all the others fit and function well enough for most situations.
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    TxsTxs Member Posts: 18,801
    edited November -1
    My suggestion is that you take this over to the General Discusion side. Too many views and opinions - many with valid points - to cover before you run up against the ten response wall here and your post gets locked.

    Discussing different AR's always generates lively input. [;)]
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    .223.223 Member Posts: 13 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    My 2 cents on where to start with AR15s.

    I started by building a basic A2 20" and I went Chrome lined. Don't get fluted, get the Gubment profile. That will work just fine in High power matches and you will be able to compete in the "Service Rifle" division. Anything else will put you in the match division.

    Next, a 16" flattop upper for 3 gun.

    Once you get a lower completed you can put anything you want on top.

    If you are going to build an AR I recomend a bore sighter with an adapter for AR's, you won't need the adapter for flattops.

    That bore sighter will save you a lot of angst and a lot of ammo.
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    sandwarriorsandwarrior Member Posts: 5,453 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    SkipJames,

    First, I will say that I really like my Rock River. It is standard A2 configuration though and that means to get a scope mounted I have to use a special mount that slips into the carrying handle and is held in by a screw on the bottom. This makes the scope extremely high and therefore a little difficult to line your face up behind the scope exactly the same way each time. So, I suggest a flattop, which is considered to be an A3 or A4 configuration. With that you can add a collapsible stock put on std or "tacticool" iron sights, take those off and put on a CQB or long range scope. A lot of good quality in them,DPMS seems to be a good name. I've seen both good and bad from them so it boils down to the builder. Was it DPMS? or a no name off the street with DPMS stuff so they want to be a part of the action. Bushmaster is another good one. They are now owned by Remington but the AR's they sell are as good as ever. Stag and Olympic Arms come to mind as another couple of good names. Colt always produces good rifles...but at a premium cost. Something to think about.

    -good luck
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    tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I like a lot of the replies I see here, and will say you can't go wrong with Colt, Stag, DPMS, Rock River Arms, Bush Master, or Smith and Wesson. There might be a couple names that i forgot to mention in this column of acceptable brand names. I would stay with a Flat top, and get one with no sights, front or rear, but with a Picatinny rail gas block, and put the flip up sights on it. That way you can have either scoped or iron sighted at will.

    more omportant to remember are three names to stay away from...Hesse, Vulcan, or Blackthorn...they are nothing but junk.

    Best
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    MVPMVP Member Posts: 25,074
    edited November -1
    Buy the Rock River Arms Coyote model and be done with it.[8D]
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    cpermdcpermd Member Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Colt
    The original clone

    Seriously, if you check with range officers at 2000 rd tactical courses, you will find Colt has the least number of malfunctions.

    CP
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    cce1302cce1302 Member Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by .223
    My 2 cents on where to start with AR15s.

    I started by building a basic A2 20" and I went Chrome lined. Don't get fluted, get the Gubment profile. That will work just fine in High power matches and you will be able to compete in the "Service Rifle" division. Anything else will put you in the match division.

    Next, a 16" flattop upper for 3 gun.

    Once you get a lower completed you can put anything you want on top.

    If you are going to build an AR I recomend a bore sighter with an adapter for AR's, you won't need the adapter for flattops.

    That bore sighter will save you a lot of angst and a lot of ammo.


    what .223 said. Oh, and if you sight it in at 36 yds, that'll put you dead on at 300, if you use the rear site setting for 8/3 low. Then you won't need the boresight.
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    SkipJamesSkipJames Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thank you gentlemen, you have made me all the much wiser.

    There was some good information given out and I am appreciative.
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