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remington 1100 problem

44mutley44mutley Member Posts: 108 ✭✭
edited February 2015 in Ask the Experts
I have a remington 1100 3" magnum. When I shoot the gun everything works fine meaning it cycles fine and doesn't jam. However, after I shoot it I can't unload it without snatching the receiver several times. Once it comes loose it cycles fine as many times as you want to pull it, but once you shoot it again, it won't come loose without a fight. I don't see any visable wear, and the gun is clean. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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    44mutley44mutley Member Posts: 108 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    wanted to take the stock off of my 1100, removed buttplate, tried to turn the nut on the action tube and it won't budge, tried letting penetrating oil sit on it overnight and nothing, tried tapping lightly with a hammer to break loose, nothing, and yes i am turning it the right way, am putting a lot of force on this thing trying to turn it, afraid i am going to break the action tube or something if keep going, any suggestions, thanks
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    nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,880 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Do you use the correct 1100 butt stock bolt bit?

    Neal
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    bigbill0910bigbill0910 Member Posts: 1,119 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    3/4" SPADE BIT AND A PAIR OF VICE GRIPS ALWAYS WORK. (Learned out of necessity)
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    MG1890MG1890 Member Posts: 4,649
    edited November -1
    These can rust up pretty bad. More force is about the only solution, unfortunately.


    V35, 1100's are not setup that way... The stock is held on with a slotted head nut on the action spring tube in the stock. Steel on steel.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The bolt being steel and the frame aluminum, over time and moisture in the air will result in intermetallic corrosion in the joint.
    That will make for your problem.
    Sometimes a sharp impact will do it on stubborn joints.
    I would use an impact driver attached to 3/8 or 1/2" socket extension
    with a spade bit on the end.
    Wind up CCW on the impact driver and give it some solid blows.
    you need three or four hands to do it.
    Good luck.
    If you succeed, use antiseize paste on the bolt threads.
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    44mutley44mutley Member Posts: 108 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    thank you all who answered, my son stopped over , first try he took it right off, guess thats what it needed, younger strength, sucks getting old
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    notnownotnow Member Posts: 1,811 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Your local auto parts store sells 20" slot head screw drivers with a square shaft. You can add some torque with an open end wrench on the shaft. The one I bought was a great neck brand for about $8.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I know what you mean. The last time I played with Lugers was mid 80's
    when it was no big problem to swap out Luger mainsprings.
    Lately, it's been a struggle.
    Sometimes you have to be more stubborn than the job.
    I did sell my anvil though.
    Heavy tools will go next.
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    charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You did good. Almost everything needs antiseize or Loctight.
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