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Rimfire Revolvers - Extraction Question
VonFatman
Member Posts: 53 ✭✭
I've had several S&W revolvers that once shot, were just hard as heck to get the chambers cleared. An early 60's M17, three M18s (dash 2,3,4) all were just awful. I've sold them all off....also had a couple M650s with the same issues...they have also been sold. A 34-1 was pretty good, but if it got dirty, it would become problematic.
I have one old 1920's model K22 Outdoorsman that does not have an extraction problem regardless of ammunition...I always thought the older S&Ws had tighter chambers...oh well.
My Bearcats and Single-Six are never difficult to extract...regardless of ammo...however one Bearcat seems to have a single chamber that makes me work at extraction.
However, my Dan Wesson 722-VH will shoot/extract all day with Federal Auto-Match....but a switch to Wolf or Fiochii (sp?) and a mallet is needed to get the cylinder cleared!....of course the Wolf is the most accurate ammo in this gun! Ugh!
Any ideas...
It's been a challenge finding a rimfire revolver that did not require serious effort to get the chambers cleared.
I have one old 1920's model K22 Outdoorsman that does not have an extraction problem regardless of ammunition...I always thought the older S&Ws had tighter chambers...oh well.
My Bearcats and Single-Six are never difficult to extract...regardless of ammo...however one Bearcat seems to have a single chamber that makes me work at extraction.
However, my Dan Wesson 722-VH will shoot/extract all day with Federal Auto-Match....but a switch to Wolf or Fiochii (sp?) and a mallet is needed to get the cylinder cleared!....of course the Wolf is the most accurate ammo in this gun! Ugh!
Any ideas...
It's been a challenge finding a rimfire revolver that did not require serious effort to get the chambers cleared.
Comments
If extraction problems develop as you begin to fire more rounds and gets progressively worst then I would suspect blow-by gases. Yhis is evident by examining the cases.
In this situation the casing which must swell to chamber size during firing is unable to make a complete seal. This could be due to excessive chamber size or the casing material can not accomplish the seal fast enough nor quick enough. The powder residue will vary on type of powder and cause adhesion depending on its chemical make up. This you already know. Polishing can remove metal and thus increase the oversize problem.
Type of ammo used can help eliminate or increase the problem. Make sure you extractor rod or device is not worn and binding. I have had some success with (semi-auto) .22's by taking a very small amount of powdered graphite and sort of "shake and bake" the graphite in a bag with about 500 rounds. Use very little graphite, about 1/2 teaspoon per 500 rounds and shake it up good. You can expect to get a slight black graphite on your fingers during loading but it does the job.
EDIT I do not suggest any GRIT wet or dry sand paper[V] I do not suggest SPINNING anything in the chamber [V] YOU DO NOT want to remove metal and you do not want any grooves no matter how small running 90 degrees to the BORE you want polish to be front to back as slick as possible.
Also, your cylinder can be smoothed with some 600-grit emery paper and a slotted cleaning rod turned in a variable speed drill, on slow speed. This will smooth any roughness in the cylinder bores. BT
I'm off to get a .25 Cal brush and 30 cal mop...I have some polish on hand.
I'm glad to have all the advice!!
Bob