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advice/opinions for a conceal carry weapon
jessebolt
Member Posts: 2 ✭✭
Hey folks!
I'm looking to purchase a new handgun for protection and was looking for some opinions on some of your favorites and reasons why. I haven't had a handgun in almost 20 years and I am really out of touch with what is available and the quality of the guns out there now.
I want something with enough power to do the job effectively, but small enough to carry comfortably and to be comfortable firing. And it should be absolutely reliable.
I've looked at a Sig Sauer 239 and like it's design and feel, but haven't shot one. Any opinions on this weapon, and what caliber suggestions?
Thanks for any replies!
I'm looking to purchase a new handgun for protection and was looking for some opinions on some of your favorites and reasons why. I haven't had a handgun in almost 20 years and I am really out of touch with what is available and the quality of the guns out there now.
I want something with enough power to do the job effectively, but small enough to carry comfortably and to be comfortable firing. And it should be absolutely reliable.
I've looked at a Sig Sauer 239 and like it's design and feel, but haven't shot one. Any opinions on this weapon, and what caliber suggestions?
Thanks for any replies!
Comments
Practice is very important, and the .38 Special is inexpensive to shoot.
After a few months of improving your proficiency, it would be simple to trade it in for a small auto, if you still want to.
Doug
In the auto arena I like the S&W 3913, and the Glock 19, and your Sig 239 steps up to the plate too. For a step up a good Commander sized(4") 1911 in 45ACP. But those are just IMHO.
Best
...The gun does NOT have to be SMALL to fit your criteria, maybe small makes for a bit more ease in concealing, but unless you are a midget nudist, you should be able to carry a full size 1911 with a GOOD holster, the "holster" seems always to be the over looked step child and given little thought...except to cost, "the cheaper the better", "as long as it fits", in a lot of cases.
...The holster should be given as much thought as the gun it carries, a good rig (BELT included) will distribute the guns weight and should allow one to draw and achieve a good grip in short order.
Milt Sparks VM model holsters are argueably some of the best.
...Find a gun AND holster you are comfortable with and DON'T allow a larger frame gun you may be comfortable with scare you off because of it's size/weight; a proper rig will compensate well for size and weight. I carry several different guns, usually a Colt Commander, sometimes a full size Govt. model, with the proper rig I never notice the weight or size.
...Don't over look the belt! A cheesy thin belt will take away the ability of a holster to perform as it should, help distribute weight, hold the holster firmly in it's proper place and help KEEP it there when drawing...[;)]
A full sized loaded steel 1911 weights 2.5 pounds. That's literally half the weight of a standard construction brick. If you can walk around with half a brick concealed in your pants all day, all the more power to you. Personally, that's not for me.
I think the ability to put a concealed carry gun in a pants or jacket pocket (eg in case a covering garment is impractical in a given situation) can be highly useful.
So I also like the .38 snubnose revolver. Its tried and true as a concealment gun, offering extremely good power-to-weight ratio, as close to 100% reliability as you can get in ANY compact pistol, and low maintenance. 70 years after the introduction of the Colt "Detective Special" the snubnose .38 is STILL a standard backup/concealed gun for many on and off-duty police, and I think that says something.
The only real drawback is limited capacity (eg five shots with most variants, including Smith J frames), but five ought to cover 95%+ of situations, so long as you don't throw them away, and you can always carry reloads.
I like the airweight (aluminum alloy frame) Smith guns for their lighter weight, which makes extended pocket carry comfortable. Nothing wrong with all-steel either. Those offer less recoil, but are a bit less comfortable in a pocket.
Hammer, no hammer, or shrouded hammer version is a question of personal preference. I like hammer for the ability to get a more accurate shot at distance (if I need to), but hammerless and shrouded hammer are also good legitimate choices to reduce snagging and/or decrease the likelihood of negligent discharge.
It DOES take some practice to get used to the brisk recoil of these light guns, particularly the alloy frame ones. Also, "boot" grips are a big improvement for shooting over the older standard thin Smith stocks. The boot grips come standard on most of the production Smith guns now.
As to .357 magnum, that's really a handful in an alloy frame (eg Scandium) gun, and I just can't recommend it. The recoil is physically painful, and the muzzle flash and blast are pronounced. .357 from a STEEL frame snubnose is more realistic, in my opinion, but you have the tradeoff of greater weight.
IMO at the point-blank distance you are most likely to actually fire the thing, .38 special is good enough, if you use the good +P "personal protection" rounds. I also don't see any reason to PAY for a .357 gun (which usually cost considerably more that similar .38 caliber guns) if you aren't actually going to carry .357 rounds.
Well...maybe...
Doug