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Remington 513-T

umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
edited September 2017 in Ask the Experts
Got this new to me 513-T that's a 65 version, has the scope dovetails on the receiver. Seems to shoot real good with a 36X Leupold, Fed Auto Match is real good at 6 cents a shot, mostly all touching groups with 5 shots, 50 yd but some erratic shots, I expect that with Fed Automatch. Wolf is more consistent and a bit tighter groups, 1/2" or less at 12 cents a shot but is it worth glass bedding this thing? It almost holds the X ring with the 50 yard A-23 target as is. 10 ring for sure. It appears pretty much stock, but I did take the finish off the stock, there was way too much excess finish in the recesses. What can be done with the trigger, it's way to heavy and creepy. I tried getting the sear out to polish it, but no luck there's a couple "punched" screws in the receiver that keep it from coming apart. I didn't find a whole bunch of stuff on line other than a parts list and an army training manual. It's got all the Redfield sight parts, actually I bought the front globe inserts, and other than that all it need is the rear peep and that's on the way from A&M. I'll hand rub some poly or Tru-Oil on the stock. It's got a real nice walnut stock with lots of striping.

Comments

  • umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
    edited November -1
    I HAVE A REMINGTON 513-T MATCHMASTER THAT I ACQUIRED SEVERAL YEARS AGO. IT CAME WITH THE REDFIELD PEEP SIGHTS AND THE MICRO CLICK MOUNTS FOR A SCOPE, BUT NO SCOPE. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT KIND OF SCOPE WAS SUPPOSE TO BE WITH IT. MABY WHERE I CAN FIND ONE.
  • toad67toad67 Member Posts: 10,054 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What are you going to use it for? Will it be a competition gun in a registered event, a gun to bet beers with your buddy's, or just punching paper on your own time to see how good it does?
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,348 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I like the wood sealed, so I treat every surface inside and out including screw/stud holes (release agent is important). LinSpeed oil is one of my favorite hand rubbed finishes. I have used Micro Bed for the action and barrel channels. Not sure if those products are still made.

    Do the rifle, let dry, then scrape the barrel channel for free floating. Next a small area at the end of the stock is made to apply some damping force, by hanging the wet rifle upside down level with a 5# weight attached to the barrel at the end of the stock. Let cure. Shoot, very easy to scrape out or apply more force with additional bedding and weight.

    Polish is usually done with stones on all working surfaces. Care must be take not to change the angles on the sear engagement. Sometimes metal is added/removed or punched to limit the engagement or travel. Trigger work is an advanced skills. Bubba has produce lots of unsafe firearms - fixing them will cost way more than having the work done properly the first time.

    added wet is a small gob of freshly mixed place in the channel. Usually it will require "dressing" to arrive at the smooth finished final form.

    So is it #34 that is staked in place?
    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/remington/rifles-rem/513t
  • umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
    edited November -1
    I've got the stock stripped and a bit more sanding to get rid of some marks and it should be ready. I thought I'd bed it before finishing. I have some TruOil and I've used just basic polyurethane before with good results to my satisfaction. I've used LinSpeed and it's no different that I can tell. Yes seal all the wood inside and out. I have some Micro-Bed that's still good I'm going to use to bed the receiver and keep it from flopping around. I mixed some up the other day and it reacts fine.

    Right now the barrel is free floating up to the hump (a Piece of paper slides easily up to the hump) at the end of the channel where it puts a bit of pressure on the barrel there. The old finish was so thick in the barrel channel I couldn't tell what it was doing. I'll try your method with the weight but what do you mean 'wet'? I figure there's no way it's going to work without the barrel pressure, there's only one mounting screw and everything I read says it won't work to free float it. Or would it be worth trying?

    Agree the trigger can easily be messed up. I've done a few and am very careful with any stoning not to go to far too quick, but it's near impossible to get the sear out of this thing, the thing that holds in in has 2 staked screws in it. How do I get those out? The weight adjustment screw did next to nothing. The trigger pull is somewhat inconsistent.

    This rifle is just going to be used for my pleasure to see how good I can get it or I can be. It's the first 22 I've had that will shoot less than 1" groups off sandbags with the Leu 36x. So far this rifle shoots stunningly better than any other's I've had, including a Mossberg 144LS which is not as good as my old Win 61 pump. I'd be more than happy if I can shoot consistent shots that all touch each other at 50 yd but I wouldn't mind better. Haven't tried it at 100yd yet. The Fed Automatch are not bad, but inconsistent, there will be flyers 1/2" or more out. The Wolf Match Target is very consistent and nearly every 5 shot group is all touching. 10 shots would prolly still produce a group you could cover with a dime. Hoping I can get it a bit better. It would be nice if it held the X ring on the A-23 at 50.

    I tried the peep sight the other day, but my old eyes can't see the bull because of some visual anomalies when I look through the peep and it's lined up. I can see the bull when it's not lined up. Don't know if I can correct for this problem.
  • TRAP55TRAP55 Member Posts: 7,992 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Manual:
    http://stevespages.com/pdf/remington_513-t.pdf

    Trigger adjustment:
    quote:There are trigger weight of pull and travel adjustment screws on the 513T. Verify rifle is unloaded and remove the action from the stock and turn belly up. There are 3 screws visible--the center is just to hold the mechanism in place and is not for adjustment. The rear screw of the 3 is the overtravel adjustment screw. With rifle cocked, turn this screw in until it contacts the trigger. If trigger won't release (safety off), turn screw out slightly until trigger will release.

    The front screw is for weight of pull, within limits. To lighten the trigger pull weight, turn the front screw counter-clockwise (out) a bit and check trigger pull. Repeat until you are satisfied with the pull weight or the screw is fully backed off. Once you've adjusted this weight of pull screw, you must verify the trigger is still safe. Verify the rifle is unloaded--safety on. Cock the rifle and release safety--firing pin should not fall. Do this several times. Next, cock the rifle, safety on, and pull the trigger, then release safety--firing pin should not fall (do it several times). Next cock the rifle, release safety, and do a bump test. I use a padded surface--such as a folded towel on the floor, but can also use a rubber mallet on the buttplate. Bounce the rifle/strike buttplate with mallet, gently at first, then a bit harder--the firing pin should not fall (do it several times). If the rifle fails any of these tests, screw the front screw back in a bit, and go through the tests again until it passes.
  • umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
    edited November -1
    Thanks, I already found that pdf and read about the adjustment. Did that, it was pretty ineffective. The real problem is there's creep in the pull sometimes, but not always and sometimes it feels heavier than others. I really don't see what that weight adjustment screw does. I also found the TM 9-280 but that didn't enlighten me much.

    First I'm going to shim up the receiver in the stock, unaltered, until the barrel free floats and see how it shoots there. Then maybe I can also figure out how high that hump in the end of the barrel channel is relative to the current receiver bedding and go from there before I glass bed.

    I'll see if I can find a local smith who I can trust to stone the sear and the firing pin where they mate.

    Oh, wait. Those trigger instructions are back asswards. The front one adjusts the over travel and the rear one adjusts the weight. Just confirmed it. It's some better now with the rear one loosened up all the way. Trouble is now the screw hits the stock, but I can drill that out. But that's where the front screw is for the trigger guard and it would stick out. I'll have to play with that or replace the screw with a shorter one. I still don't see what that screw does.
  • umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
    edited November -1
    Actually the trigger instructions are right. It's just that the 'weight' screw hardly does anything and actually the bottom of the sear meets the screw which provides some resistance depending on how tight the screw is. I have it completely backed off the sear. As far as the 'over travel' I don't know why but when I loosened it a bunch, the pull weight got a lot better. I can't see what that screw is doing inside but supposedly it meets the trigger somewhere and stops the trigger from traveling too far back. I don't notice it. I wonder if it would help to put a lighter plunger spring in the trigger? I think I read that somewhere, like a tire valve spring. I can get at that spring.
  • gunnut505gunnut505 Member Posts: 10,290
    edited November -1
    I think you'll run out of thread space before yo get the bedding/trigger/sights questions answered, but I'd try Fed 711 or another Gold Medal stock number before you get too involved.
    Rimfire ammo is tricky, even if you get the spendy Lapua Midas at $23 a box of 50.
    To really see the inherent accuracy, try more than 2 kinds of ammo.
    If you wanna spend all your time getting picky, and measuring rim thicknesses, overall weight, length, etc. to wring the best out of your groups; you still get trigger time, which you won't get with a sticky, drippy stock[:D]
  • iceracerxiceracerx Member Posts: 8,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by gunnut505
    I think you'll run out of thread space before yo get the bedding/trigger/sights questions answered, but I'd try Fed 711 or another Gold Medal stock number before you get too involved.
    Rimfire ammo is tricky, even if you get the spendy Lapua Midas at $23 a box of 50.
    To really see the inherent accuracy, try more than 2 kinds of ammo.
    If you wanna spend all your time getting picky, and measuring rim thicknesses, overall weight, length, etc. to wring the best out of your groups; you still get trigger time, which you won't get with a sticky, drippy stock[:D]


    And make sure you clean the barrel between different brands of ammo. Often the lubes used aren't compatible. Then fire a few 'foulings' shots and then check for accuracy.

    Edit: Considering the age of the 513T I believe that trying today 'hi-end' match ammo a waste of good $$$$. Back in it's day Winchester T-22 and Remington Standard Velo (not today's 'target' junk) were the kings of the small bore ranges.

    My tried and true 513T likes CCI standard velo lr.
  • umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
    edited November -1
    I have tried more than 2 types of bullets. I've just found at this point that those 2 are the best, so far and they're mostly acceptable for what they are, mainly price. I tried some Eley, and they did nothing special at $15 a box. I've got CCI and Remington's that do that good. So far I can't see any diff between the Wolf Match Target and the Match Extra which are a bit more.

    I did cut out the hump at the end of the stock and free floating the barrel is useless without using another mounting point at the rear of the receiver which I am not willing to go to at this point. I'll play around with the thickness of the 'hump' at the end of the stock and see if there's a thickness of shim that it seems to like.

    I do have some other Federal types to try but so far they don't look promising. I do notice that it seems to take at least 5 shots with a new bullet type to settle down, I should try cleaning between, I haven't tried that. It seems to take at least 5 shots after a cleaning to settle down too and sometimes it seems to get better up to about 50 shots. I need to get the chrono on it too. The Fed AutoMatch I can hear some of the rounds are way out of sinc with the others and it shows. But at 6 cents a shot it's not that bad. I can get some real good groups with it, but it's not reproducible consistently. I put it up to luck until something better comes along.

    Thanks for any recommendations.
  • umunhumumunhum Member Posts: 15
    edited November -1
    First attempt at bedding didn't work as expected, the rear of the receiver was not seated down enough putting too much contact on the barrel area. I dug it out and re-did it. But that showed me that the rear of the receiver being U shaped will be captured in the bedding so maybe the one point mount at the front of the receiver will be enough to free float the barrel. It will be worth a try and I can always add the barrel pressure later. Give me a day or two to let things cure and we'll see what kind of groups we get. Can't wait.

    But then I'm looking at the Savage Mark II BV, I may get one for $330 anyhow, but it doesn't have the peep sights. At this point, my eyes don't work that good with metallic sights. I seem to get blind through them.
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