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1911 question...

Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007
edited February 2009 in Ask the Experts
I put a stainless lightweight Commander on layaway on the auction side, and it has a 1911 style backstrap and grip safety.

I'd like to have an A1 style backstrap installed, and one of the grip safeties that has the lump on it to assure engagement (I don't need a beavertail).

I have never customized any of my 1911s, so my questions are:

1) Are these two items things that I can install without too much difficulty ??

2) Will I be able to find them with the same color and texture as the lightweight Commander ??

3) What companies should I look to as vendors ??

4) Should I have the seller ship it directly to a gunsmith for this work ??

5) I live in OryGun - and this seems that is relatively simple - what gunsmith should I use ??

6) Should I install a buffer and a spring kit at the same time I have the work done, and maybe a trigger job and match barrel and bushing ??

I really appreciate y'alls help, and I feel stoopid.

Doug

Comments

  • perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,105 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hello Doug I will try to help on some questions #1 as for a 1911 type back strap There are 2 pieces the top half is called a grip safety & the bottom half is called the MAINSPRING housing There are two main styles of mainspring Housing Flat & arched . This is one part that IMHO can be changed out with very little chance that it will screw up any part of function. #2 can you get one to match the original finish ? I suggest you look at the Brownells web site for any 1911 TYPE part They sell mostly high quality parts other high quality places Cylinder and Slide shop and also Fusion that sells items on Gunbroker . The grip safety with the BUMP is not for every one It kills the tendon on my hand and my fingers go numb but I have very long thin skinny hands. For the most part this part can also be changed out as long as you understand how the tab on the upper right side interacts with the trigger bow to work as a grip safety when not gripped but allow the trigger bow to move when you grip the pistol. I suggest you change the mainspring housing first as this may cure your problem with your original grip safety. Now comes question #3 and unasked question #4 I have a VERY STRONG opinion about Buffers and full length guide rods . Both cause more problems then they supposedly cure. The buffer can come apart and cause jams but more important they keep the slide from making a full length cycle This can cause the slide stop to round the bottom edge of the slide stop notch as well as change the time of slide travel it can make the time so short that the round in the magazine to not rise full and lay against the magazine lips this can cause FTF. The full length guide rod makes for difficult takedown they can drag against the recoil spring plug. . I have one series 70 1911 target pistol with over 300,000 rounds through it SAME recoil spring NEVER kinked and springs do not need replaceing IF you match the spring with the load you shoot. now Question #5 Trigger jobs are one of the best things you can do to a stock pistol IF done properly and with good quality parts Again do not buy any Cast or MIM parts go with good quality IF you replace the original ones a good 1911 smith may be able to rework the ones in the pistol but May need to replace other parts like safety lever All the fire control parts must be fitted to work as a complete safe set so change every thing at the same time I also like a trigger with a screw to adjust the overtravel. . I would hold off on the match barrel and bushing . The commander is seldom used as a target pistol and I know of no one that uses a aluminum frame on a target pistol because they will need the frame to slide fit tightened very often compared to STEEL FRAME & SLIDE. I have seen some combat commanders shoot 2-3 inch groups at 25 yards out of a ransom rest with good ammo unless you are a master class target shooter IMHO the pistol will out shoot most pistol shooter. Good luck "PRAISE THE HARD - BALL GUN"
  • Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007
    edited November -1
    I appreciate the thought that you put into your post.

    It's wise counsel, and I will follow it.

    I have used buffers in other 1911 type pistols, and never considered the possible bad effects of them. I felt that one would be useful in an alloy frame.

    I have also had a couple with the bump on the grip safety and found that I really liked it. But, I won't do it out of the chute with this one, per your advice. I'll also pass on the match barrel and bushing.

    I've had a couple that I acquired with full length guide rods, and got rid of the rods at once. They provided no advantage that I could detect.

    As far as the trigger job, I'll buy a matched set of parts, including the thumb safety, and I'll have it installed, maybe by Cylinder and Slide, who have done some work on Hi Powers that I owned - before they were acquired - by Wilson ??

    Thank you again for giving me the benefit of your experience.

    Doug
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I see that the hard work of answering your question has been done. If I could piggyback a bit.

    In addition to matching the gun's frame/slide color, the top (tang)of of the grip safety - the forward part that mates with the frame just behind the hammer - should match up properly to the frame if you buy one with a wider tang. I know some Colt models leave quite a gap, it doesn't effect function but I think it gives the gun an unfinished look. Grip safeties with a thin tang that slips in between the frame don't require this same fitting.

    I've shot 1911s for about 40 years and I can not think of an instance where I needed or would have been better served with a full length guide rod. My Dan Wesson/CZ Pointman came with one and it has since been removed. Their CBOB "Commander" model doesn't have it.

    In addition to Brownells, you may want to try Midway. Midway carries customer reviews of their products and this can be informative, but do take opinions with a grain of salt. A fellow who posts that "Product A" made his gun super reliable may write that because his gun went from 10 stoppages per 100 rounds to 5. All is relative.

    Be careful regarding trigger jobs and "drop in" parts. Lots of folks, to include gunsmiths, can switch out or smooth parts. But a good, safe trigger pull on a 1911 is a balancing act that in addition could require a new thumb safety. Since the Commander isn't a target gun, I'd put quite a few rounds through it and let the parts settle first.
  • Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007
    edited November -1
    Thanks, Doug.

    I usually run four or boxes of hardball through a new pistol before I judge it.

    Do you think that will be enough ??

    As you may be able to tell, I'm really excited about this one.

    Doug
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd say a few hundred rounds will get things settled, but I'd look to have it, use it & sort of live with it for a while. The gun breaks in, you get used to the gun - that sort of thing. Nice gun, although there are lots of 1911s out there that are great guns, I suppose there's still something neat about seeing "Colt" and the little horse stamped on the gun.
  • Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007
    edited November -1
    Yup.

    And...it's REALLY pretty, with Novak style sights, double diamond rosewood grips and the contrast in color of the aluminum frame and stainless slide.

    I am really jazzed about it !!

    Doug
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