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Non-Corrosive 8mm Mauser Ball Ammo

givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886
edited February 2009 in Ask the Experts
What is a "given" as being [8mm Mauser Ball] non-corrosive? S&B? PMC? Prvi? any particular brand/date headstamp I should seek to have a "reasonable guarantee" of it being non-corrosive? Thanks, Joe

Comments

  • WulfmannWulfmann Member Posts: 4,906 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Unless you are using a semi auto 8MM corrosive is 25% the cost of non corrosive 8MM and is easy to clean with a few reasonable steps.

    I shoot mostly corrosive with no problems at all in bolt guns.

    Wulfmann
    3YUCmbB.jpg
    "Fools learn from their own mistakes. I learn from the mistakes of others"
    Otto von Bismarck
  • givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886
    edited November -1
    Thanks W. So, let's talk about corrosive: what ammo do you find "satisfactory"?? What ammo to avoid?

    This barrel is (appears?) unfired. Shines like a mirror. I'd love to keep it looking that way.

    What can I do while still at the range vis-a-vis bore protection during the trip home [two hour time lapse], before I am able to do the hot soap-and-water routine? Thanks again, Joe
  • XXCrossXXCross Member Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Shooting "corrosive" ammo in your nice shiny barrel will not harm it at all...as long as you clean and oil it after! Hot soapy water and a few drying patches to clean out the residue, followed by a good gun oil should do the trick. Go through the process again in a few days and you will be fine.
  • givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886
    edited November -1
    At the range..anything special I should do before I get the rifle home for a proper cleaning? Sorry for nitpicking..but it's my first encounter with corrosive ammo. Joe

    EDIT:
    Remember that brown, oily military bore cleaner? That stuff in the 1/2 pint can that smelled terrible? Was that originally intended for corrosive ammo? Thanks. Joe
  • BufflerBuffler Member Posts: 821 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mix ammonia and water 50/50. Run several patches and wipe off the bolt.Dry with patches and oil good..hot soapy water when you can.
    BE SAFE!! Buffler
  • PA ShootistPA Shootist Member Posts: 693 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I shoot a lot of corrosive-primed ammo, and as said above it will not harm your nice shiny bore to use this ammo, if you clean promptly after use. How promptly? That depends on several factors, including humidity and temperature.

    The residue from corrosove priming compounds is a salt. The residue is hygroscopic, that is it absorbs moisture from the air. Wet salty residue in your nice shiny bore can cause rusting fairly quickly under the wrong conditions. I am fortunate to be able to shoot most times reasonable close to home, where I clean thoroughly and promptly.

    Many cleaning potions do not dissolve the residue salts. Most anything water-based will. The old-time GI bore cleaner, the kind with the very powerful odor, was formulated for cleaning corrosive priming residues; it was water-based. Petroleum-based solvents don't work to remove the salts.

    So a couple water-wet patches first, followed by your ordinary powder-solvent and metal-fouling removal bore solvents will be all that's required. Before you leave the range run a couple water-based patches followed by a couple patches with regular bore cleaners, this will hold you just fine till you get home for a thorough cleaning. There is still a lot of surplus military ammo with corrosive primers, and it is fine ammo, often at great prices, and I get and shoot all I can.

    IF using in a semi-auto, the cleaning process is made far more difficult, and needs to include all the gas passages & pistons, etc. For that reason (being inherently lazy) I very seldom will use surplus 8mm Mauser ammo in my Egyptian FN-49!
  • allen griggsallen griggs Member Posts: 35,692 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am not wild about the ammonia/water mix, although you often see recommended.
    I have a beautiful Finnish M39 SkY. I was cleaning with a patch of ammonia/water and the stuff ran down the stock for 3 inches and ate the finish right off.

    I do what the Marines did in World War 2.
    Put a saucepan on the floor with a quart of hot water in it. Put a squirt of dish soap in the water.
    Remove the bolt. Put the muzzle in the water.
    Put a patch on the cleaning rod, and run it down the bore all the way to the muzzle. Draw it back to the chamber.
    You are pumping hot soapy water through your barrel.
    Repeat ten times, bye bye to corrosive salts, and lots of other black gunk.
    Run two dry patches down the bore and then clean as usual.
  • givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886
    edited November -1
    Thanks, guys. I'm going to take your advice on what to use.

    And, I'm going to the dreaded E-bay and picking up some MILSURP bore cleaner for the range. Glad to know it's water based. Best, Joe
  • TRAP55TRAP55 Member Posts: 8,292 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Remember that brown, oily military bore cleaner? That stuff in the 1/2 pint can that smelled terrible? Was that originally intended for corrosive ammo? Thanks. Joe
    Yep, the stuff we use to toss?[:0] That's what I've been using in my Garands, but it's getting harder to find. On a side note, I have two M44 Mosins that I've been shooting the really nasty corrosive surplus in. One I've cleaned with Hoppes #9, the other with water, followed with the Hoppes. Couple thousand rounds so far, and no difference between the two.
    Joe, on milsurp 8mm ammo, if you are shooting a self loader, Romanian light ball is the best pick. It leaves a black soot in the gun, but it's all sure fire with no surprises, and the easiest on your action.
    Yugoslav would be my second pick, but they have thick hard primers that a lot of rifles, both semi and bolt, won't pop without a heavier hammer/firing pin spring.
  • givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886
    edited November -1
    Tks, Trap. I have a new Yugo. Rifling twist is probably better suited for the heavier bullets. However, I'll be on the lookout for both. Thanks again, Joe
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