Reloading Question

corvidae

I am having to use BR-2 large rifle primers on my 22-250 reloads.

I have been putting 39.2 grains of H380 under a 53GR Barnes TSX FB.

The Barnes book says you can go over this charge a little because of the ring lands groves in the bullet.

My question is ,

Do you think I should back off a few tenths of a grain to offset the large rifle primer?

corvidae

Does anyone know what the factory load is for
270 wsm Winchester Supreme loaded with a 130 grain balistic silvertip bullet. I am looking mostly for powder charge and powder type. I have a friend that will reload them for me but I want to stick with the factrory specs because it shoots soooo well.
Thanks
Steve

corvidae

For case resizing: Is there something around the house that can be substituted for case lube?

corvidae

Say I have some 300 win. mag. match ammo with a 190 grain bullet, and I want to knock out that bullet and replace it with 180 grain ballistic tips, would I have to back off on the powder , or leave it alone and have more or less velocity?

corvidae

Gents,

If I fire a factory round in my bolt action then it should form fit to the chamber right? If this is the case then if i resize the case back to factory standards then am I decreasing case life and potentially creating headspace issues? I am new to reloading and have been taking baby steps to make sure I understand the basics and foundation.

Did a search under headspace and resizing and didn't get much back.

corvidae

How important is it to tumble brass before it's reloaded? What polishing medium is used?
Thanks.
GH1[:)]

corvidae

Got my .44 rifle the other day, and the local gunsmith is telling me that I can't shoot pistol rounds through it, cause it will bulge the chamber, but no one lists "rifle" date for .44 special. Is he FOS, or should I be worried?

I've checked Hodgdon, and they list the same load for rifle and pistol.

Advice would REALLY be appreciated right now. Thanks.

O Lord,
grant me the Serenity
to accept the things
I cannot change
the courage to change the things I can,
and the supreme firepower to make the difference.

corvidae

does anyone know of a powder despener that maintains the weight better than the one i have now the one i have seems to vary + or - up to 4 grains of powder?

larry

corvidae

I just bought a Marlin .44 mag lever action rifle. I took it out to the range and fed it some of my .44 special reloads - that work fine in my revolver. Copper washed lead bullets loaded to medium pressures. Well, I got one or two shots off and the rifle jammed. What it turned out to be was that the bullets had sunk into the casing - I guess from the recoil and the fact that they are loaded one in back of the other. Is there anything I can change in my reloading technique to correct this? Thanks.

corvidae

I have recently been experiencing a problem when reloading for my 9mm.
I noticed the problem when I switched from the Hornady boat-tails to any flat bottom/spitzer head.

The problem is I am getting a very small bulge in the brass right at the base of the bullet. It's not enough to affect the round cycling in my pistol but it is just annoying to look at.

I was just wondering if anyone might know the cause and possibly a solution.

THANKS! in advance.

corvidae

i am new at reloading, tonight i was resizing and knocking the spent primers out of my 7mm cases and i noticed a small dent in the neck on the first case that i resized, i threw it out and i figured that i have the die to low? i was wondering if i did the right thing by throwing the case with the dented neck away and why did i dent the neck of the case.
thanks

corvidae

I'm new to reloading. I reload 45 acp with once fired brass, 7.5gr Alliant Pistol powder 230gr full metal jacket round nose, cci large pistol primers. The problem I'm having is that the bullet is keyholing in the target. I've shot these through a 5",4",3" Kimbers with the same effect. Any hints?

corvidae

Can russian 7.62x54 bullets be pulled and used for 30-06?

corvidae

I've started gearing up for reloading 41 mag and have been studying a bit here and there. I've purchased some Hornaday reloading dies that claim they are lube free dies. Is this correct? Is the lube mainling used in the resizing process? My other questions are about supplies. I purchased some Federal No. 155 Magnum large pistol primers. Are they good enough to start off with. Any suggestions on a compatiple poweder to start off with? Now as far as the scale is concerned will an inexspecive scale be reliable enough to start off with?
Last questions. I've recently came across a couple of older reloading guides. One is a Hercules, copy right date is 1978 and a Hodgdon, copy right date is unknown but it states that it is the second printing. Should I use these and if so are the powders listed going to be hard to find? TIA for any help.[:)]

Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!

corvidae

was looking on midwayusa.com and if I understand right the same dies can be used to reload the 45 acp and the 45 auto rim?
any help appreciated, thanks

corvidae

I am just starting to get into reloading and have this question. Does the reloading manual's suggested load data work for different bullet types as long as the weight remains the same? Example being speer 115 gr .335 v. zero .335 115 gr?Thanks for the replies.

corvidae

Yesterday I was playing with my 257 Roberts that I've had some accuracy problems with. I loaded up 3 rounds using 35 grains of Varget and a 115 gr Nosler B.T. The OAL was 2.920". This group of 3 averaged about 7/8" at 100 yards. I loaded up 3 more with the same powder and charge, except this time I made the OAL 2.900 and the grouping opened up to about 6". My question is, can .020" make that big of a difference in accuracy? Next question is, how good of a bullet is the Nosler B.T. on deer? I heard it said once that they have too thin a jacket to get adequate penetration, and my final question is, on bullets with a cannelure, such as the Speer Grand Slam, is it necessary to seat the bullet so the cannelure is at the rim of the case?

bpost

Good question!
When you fire the case does expand to form fit your chamber. It also springs back just a bit, allowing for extraction. The idea behind resizing is to reduce the neck diameter to accept and hold a new bullet and to bump the shoulder back just enough to have very little or no resistance to closing the bolt.

If you set your F/L die to touch the ram you are indeed probably "over-resizing" the case. When the F/L die is set to touch the top of the ram it is pushing the shoulder back many thousandths of an inch more than necessary. The brass has to flow during resizing, so it flows to the neck making it longer.

Upon a second firing the brass has to again flow to fill the chamber and it flows from just above the web area. This is what weakens the brass, reducing useful life.

When a die is properly set for a bolt gun the neck gets resized to about 75% of its length. The shoulder is not touched by the F/L die! My theory is the metal flows back a bit towards the case reducing the shoulder just enough to fit the chamber again.

After three or so firings you will notice the bolt is getting stiff to closing on newly sized cases. That is when the shoulder AND BASE needs bumped back a bit; and is a good time to anneal the necks too. If you use Redding S dies with the proper diameter bushing; and the proper use of F/L die the cases last for many firings.

Headspace issues are created when you willy-nilly shove the shoulder back, making the case too short for the chamber, this greatly reduces case life.

The easiest way to set the die is to remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt and start sizing and adjusting the die downward until you feel just a tad of resistance. Turn it down another 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it into place. Your case should show a clear line on the neck where the die stopped sizing.

If you are going to use the F/L die for sizing, without getting the neck die you will need to fire the cases until they are getting too tight. At that point you reset the sizing die to squeeze the base back enough to again chamber easily.

NOTE; you must remove the firing pin so you can feel the case without feeling the spring tension on the firing pin during closure.

Emmett Dunham

The neck siziing die work that area of the brass that has form fitted and can be used in the same rifle only when reloaded. The full length sizing die works the lenth of the round letting you use the round in other rilfles. You read that the full length die wares the brass out quicker, the neck sizer still wears the brass. I have rifle ammo I have had a very long time that I check and use each time I reload, there are some high pressure brass in the 22 250 family that do not give the long life. Get the NRA reloading book, it is low cost and has lots of pictures and advise.

Short and sweet

Emmett

corvidae

Excellent information gentlemen. Thank you for you time and expertise. I will be ordering the NRA book shortly.