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is there a trick

scottm21166scottm21166 Member Posts: 20,723
edited February 2009 in Ask the Experts
to preventing drag lines on a revolver or does it have to happen in the course of use?
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Comments

  • rwfixemrwfixem Member Posts: 164 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It's gonna happen. If it ain't making marks it ain't working.
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  • one2hutnone2hutn Member Posts: 261 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Spinning the cylinder like I see many people do certainly doesn't help.
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  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Also, never pull the hammer part way back and then release it; bring it all the way to full cock, then pull the trigger and ease it back down.
    Having the timing adjusted, if it's off may help, but won't eliminate the problem. Ideally the bolt should remain retrackted until the cylinder locking notch is almost lined up for final lock-up.
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  • nunnnunn Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 36,085 ******
    edited November -1
    quote:Ideally the bolt should remain retrackted until the cylinder locking notch is almost lined up for final lock-up.

    True, to a point, but if your gun is fitted to where the bolt doesn't engage the cylinder until the leading edge of the bolt notch comes around, there is no allowance for wear. The drag line is normal.
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  • scottm21166scottm21166 Member Posts: 20,723
    edited November -1
    seems like they could cut a groove where the track would be and lay in gold or titanium make it pretty instead of ugly. my ruger revolvers seem to be the worst (maybe because they are single action?)
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  • spasmcreekspasmcreek Member Posts: 37,717 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    some that have turned & locked up correctly with a line i have polished a little off top of latch & polished & reblued cylinder ...fixed
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  • beantownshootahbeantownshootah Member Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think cylinder drag lines are an accepted consequence of ordinary revolver design.

    I've never seen a used revolver without one.

    As already mentioned, the cylinder stop bolt has to touch the cylinder to function. Maybe you could change the timing of when it engages, but if you mess with things too much, you'll reduce the reliability of the gun.

    Now in theory you could change a revolvers design in ways that could reduce the rubbing that causes the line, but this isn't going to help you reduce it on your already-manufactured revolver.
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  • givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886 ✭
    edited November -1
    Can only speak of SAA's (The Colt ones, not the meatball variety)

    My 1st gen SAA wont snap the bolt free until it's lined up under the leade. I have 2 2nd gen's, and they both release the bolt into the leade. There's about 1/16-3/32in more travel left from the engagement point in the leade to the lockup notch. On SAA's, that's more than enough "elbow room" for wear.

    Drag lines are due to improper manipulation of the hammer (in SAA's).

    Now, discussing Smifs..All my Smif & Wessons have drag lines. And timing may very well not be the problem.

    I would imagine [the drag line] is due to the urge to re-align the cylinder with the barrel after the gun is closed..allowing the bolt to slide on the surface of the cylinder while you are rotating the cylinder "into the notch".

    'Fess up. We've all done it. Best, Joe
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  • AnonymouseAnonymouse Member Posts: 4,050
    edited November -1
    One of my Smiths I had customized, since it was a basket case when I bought it. I had the whole gun refinished in dark Metacol III, except where the drag line is, I had that highly polished the whole way around. It looks really nice.
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  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932 ✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by scottm21166
    is there a trick to preventing drag lines on a revolver Dont take it out of the box.
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