1911a1 series 80

kidthatsirishkidthatsirish Member Posts: 6,867 ✭✭✭
edited March 2016 in Ask the Experts
Pistol is literally a ww2 repro plus series 80 components....the guide rod plate...specifically the "corners of the Moon" are showing severe preening as if just those sections were getting battered...no wear on any other of the parts....just the guide rod. Replaced the part...still does it.....

Pics added for clarification. Also I'm using factory 230 fmj loads





  • rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,456 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Everybody and their brother in law, are making 1911's and parts nowadays. Maybe your recoil spring guide is slightly oversize? Try different one.

    Also their are plastic buffers that are specifically made to fit over the cylindrical portion of the guide. To stop the battering your referring to. If you can't get a guide with smaller dimensions, get a package of buffers. They are inexpensive.
  • forgemonkeyforgemonkey Member Posts: 20,329 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sounds like your recoil spring is too light for the load you're using.

    Try the heaviest rated spring that will still allow the slide to lock back after the last cartridge has been fired. Once you find the correct spring you should use that particular 'load/bullet',,,,,,,,if you use different power/bullet combinations you might find yourself changing springs to fit that load.

    I have one 1911 that shoots 9mm, .38 Super, 9x23 Winchester and .38 Special WC(different slide) and I use four different recoil springs,,,,,,,,

    The heavier spring will slow the slides rearward movement so the 'flange' doesn't get battered.

    The 'plastic buffers' just treat the symptom and not the problem. Also, the buffers wear out, come apart and you're back to square one,,,,,,,,,

    Try the heavier spring first (process of elimination) and let us know before trying anything else,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,inquiring minds want to know.
  • Hawk CarseHawk Carse Member Posts: 4,296 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think that shows some out of spec machining to the ends of the slide rails.
    Can you compare your slide to another? Look at the front end of the slide rails at the rear of the spring tunnel.
  • forgemonkeyforgemonkey Member Posts: 20,329 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1

    Is your barrel a replacement ????? Not all bottom barrel lugs (BBL) are created equal.

    Almost all after market guide rods have a 'bevel' at the rear where the 'saddle' sits on the barrel. This facilitates where the guide rod contacts the BBL. See the first pix below,,,,,,it shows the bevel. Without the bevel your guide rod may be sitting just enough forward to cause the 'peening',,,,,,,,,I inventoried my guide rods and all have the bevel except one.

    Just for grins and giggles,,,,,,,,look at where the guide rod sits next to the BBL. And then take a fine cut file and bevel the rear 'button' of the guide rod as shown in the first pix and see if it doesn't sit slightly further 'back',,,,,,the second pix illustrates where you need to file the guide rod to duplicate the bevel in pix number one,,,,,,,you may have the correct recoil spring but the guide rod may set too far forward,,,,,,,thus, causing the 'peening' ,,,,,,,,,,

    EDIT,,,,,,,,, Notice in the 3rd pix the 'bevel' keeps the guide rod from touching the bottom barrel lug except at the the very bottom of the saddle,,,,,,,I would be interested in seeing the front surface of your bottom barrel lug(s) to see if the rear of the guide rod is 'marking/scaring' the front surface,,,,,,

    EDIT 2 ,,,,,,,,,, The profile of your bottom barrel lug looks good with adequate clearance between the rear of the guide rod and the 'feet' of the barrel lug. A new guide rod will most likely have the bevel. If not, a slight bevel can't do harm but not really needed from what I can see in your last pics,,,,,,,,

    So, a stronger recoil spring is 'next' in the process of elimination,,,,,,,,,,thanks for keeping us in the 'loop',,,,,,,,



  • kidthatsirishkidthatsirish Member Posts: 6,867 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1



    Forge, thanks for all your help! I recently got a spring with more resistance so I'll see what that does....I'll also shape the guide....I have another and they seem to be relatively cheap even for a quality one. Thanks!
  • Hawk CarseHawk Carse Member Posts: 4,296 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I see a little step there at the end of the rails. I would file the areas of the recoil spring guide that are getting dented to clear it.
  • kidthatsirishkidthatsirish Member Posts: 6,867 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sorry Hawk....misread your post.[:I]

    I'm going to try cleaning/filing the rod as you and forge mentioned....I also moved up to a 18 pound spring. I'll post pics when done and after I go to the range this weekend.
  • forgemonkeyforgemonkey Member Posts: 20,329 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by kidthatsirish
    Wouldn't I want to fit the spring guide to the slide? It pretty much has already done that....besides. ..it does not seem to affect it's reliability.

    At this juncture just install the new guide rod and heavier recoil spring,,,,,,,,,remember, this is a process of elimination to isolate the problem. If you start changing 'this and that' all at once and eventually cure the problem you have no clue as to what was the culprit,,,,,,,,,,
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