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universal M1 carbine

4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
edited September 2003 in Ask the Experts
So I've got this Universal M1 Carbine that I bought in the early 80's, I was around 14 years old.
I added a Choate folding stock five or so years later.
I added a scope mount and scope three or so years ago.
The scope mount replaced the rear site and attached at the single screw that attached the rear sight. I don't find it all that strong a mount, but I added some "lock-tight" to the screw.
I believe that from time to time the ejected rounds are striking the bottom of the scope mount.
I'm looking to add something that will deflect the spent shells before they can hit the bottom of the scope.
I can see that on the left side of the receiver, (left in shooting stance), there are four screw holes that I seem to recall a shell deflector could be attached to. They may have been for some type of scope mount, I really am not sure.
I'm looking for advise, thoughts, what have you on this issue.
Thanks,
DSM

Comments

  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I need at slide stop lever for my carbine. It is the redesigned carbines from universal. There are no GI parts on it. The lever holds the slide open. Numrich doesnt have them, and everyone else only has GI parts. Any ideas???
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a universal m1 carbine. . It hits the primer hard enough to dent the primer but it will not fire. The head space as far as I can tell is somewhere around .22thousands. I have replased firing pin and spring. Any one out there having the same problem? What should the head space be for this M1? Thanks 45
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a fellow Paramedic that is wanting to sell me a Universal M1 Carbine. It's in great shape. It comes with a 5 round magazine and two 15 rounders. He says that the 15's won't work, though. He says that Universal changed something with their mags and only Universal Brand mags will work. Any comments? He's offering the gun, sling, and 4 boxes of ammo for $300. Somebody enlighten me!!!
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm looking at buying this rifle. I'd rate it at 90%. The store is asking $319 + tax. Is $319 the right price for this rifle? Thanks, Leonard.
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I just bought a Universal M1 carbine for $250. I was told that no other parts, except for Universal parts, would work for on it. Also did universal make them on military contract or just on the civilian market? The serial number start out as 346XXX, can anyone tell about how old the rifle is from that serial number. Any comments or knowlegde about this rifles would be appreciated.
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    My father in-law purchased a Universal M1 Carbine with a broken slide. Apparently this was a common problem with the later Universal models due to being cheaply made. Where would I be able to find this slide? I feel like I have tried everywhere.
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a universal m1 carbine that has a broken extractor. I have been told that you could use a surplus GI issue carbine bolt to fix this problem. We ordered the bolt but it does not fit. Can anyone tell us how to fix this problem.
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am looking for a slide stop lever and spring for a Universal M1 Carbine. If any one knows where to get them other than Numrich Gun Parts please let me know.
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Would a Choate folding stock fit my first gen Universal M1 Carbine? I have read that the first gen Universals are GI spec, but it says on the Choate website that the stocks won't fit most Universal M1's. If it does fit, is it worth spending the money on a Universal M1? I used to shoot it years ago and can't recall having any problems with it at all, but I read all these reviews just slamming them. I like the gun but if they really suck that bad, I don't want to spend any money on it. Most of the bad reviews I have seen are in reference to the 2nd and 3rd gen Universals so maybe the first Gens are ok. I haven't seen any reviews on the first gens good or bad.
  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,685 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The correct way to check the headspace on your carbine is as follows: Remove the operating rod and recoil springs, and completely strip the bolt. Clean the chamber and the face of the bolt very thoroughly and dry them. Insert a clean, dry "Go" headspace gauge into the chamber and attempt to close the bolt using only your thumb and forefinger. It should close completely, with the bottom of the operating rod lug coming down flat against the right side receiver rail. Now remove the "Go" gauge and insert the "No Go" gauge. The bolt should not close all the way, and there should be a visible gap of about 1/4" between the bottom of the operating rod lug and the receiver rail. If the bolt closes completely on the "No Go" your carbine has excessive headspace. Universal carbines were a mixed bag, ranging from pretty good to pretty bad. They started off using mostly G.I. surplus parts, but as the supplies dried up they produced more and more of their own parts. Eventually many of their parts were no longer interchangeable with those of the original G.I. carbines. It is possible that your firing pin is not quite long enough for the bolt; you may have a G.I. firing pin in a Universal-made bolt, or the other way around. You could try swapping several more firing pins--you might just find the right combination. It is also possible that your chamber is too deep, oversized, or just plain worn out and the blow from your firing pin just pushes the cartridge case deeper into the chamber without firing it. Probably the best way to determine the condition of the chamber is to make a chamber cast with a substance such as cerrosafe and then measure and compare its dimensions to those of a chamber diagram.
  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,247 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In addition, you need to be sure that your carbine will only fire "in battery"; i.e., the hammer must not fall unless the bolt is completely locked. This is a real concern with Universals, and can lead to pieces of steel imbedded in your face.

    If you are unable or unwilling to have your gun inspected by an experienced gunsmith, I recommend cutting the receiver in half with a hack saw to prevent a subsequent owner from making what could be a fatal mistake.

    Neal
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I do not have a head space gauge for this. is there any other way to check it . also is the headspace for all the M1 carbines the same no matter the manufacturer? Thanks for the come back. 45
  • redcedarsredcedars Member Posts: 919 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Correct headspace is determined by the cartridge specs; it is the same for all firearms chambered for that cartridge.

    You can measure the chamber itself by making a chamber casting. It is generally easier to buy the headspace gauges, unless you are skilled at taking fine measurements. However, the bolt assembly for a carbine is much easier to do with a special tool.

    As has been suggested before, a good and fair gunsmith will charge only a nominal fee to check headspace.

    redcedars
  • 4545 Member Posts: 239 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just for info I found out the firing pin spring was to big. I compared it with one from an original M1 the firing pins were the same but the springs were different. with the spring fully collaped it was 10 thousands longer than one out of the original m1 carbine. I replased the spring with an original surplus and the gun shoots all the ammo with no problem. fires every time.so what it was doing was the firing pin would hit the fully collapsed spring and be just long enough to strick the primers to dent them but not enough to make them detonate.buy putting the shorter spring in it would let the firing pin go full travel detonating even the deepest set primers like the PMC's. Thanks for the assist guys. Steve
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