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crack repair progresses

swampthing36swampthing36 Member Posts: 273 ✭✭✭
edited February 2009 in Ask the Experts
Well guys, my acragla came. The stuff is a lot more runny that I thought it would be. I started out just filling in the crack I told you about between the magazine well and trigger well. Did the 4 parts to 1 ratio and mixed the hell out of it. Worked it into the crack with a sliver of wood. Is in the vise now with two paint sticks against the stock. I notice the crack worked its way back behind the rear tang. Wondering if I should work the acraglas into the crack. I can't clamp it there. Can I sand over it and put finish on it?

Comments

  • HawkshawHawkshaw Member Posts: 1,016 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just a couple of suggestions. I usually tape both sides of a crack,(on the exposed surface), which helps clean up the uncurred epoxy, and also most of the excess, will then come off with the tape when curred. (use good 3-M tape so it doesn't tear, and leave tape adhesive on the finish). On the second, new crack, I use surgical tubing to "clamp" round surfaces like the wrist, or tang area. Works great. Also, just use the dye that is included to match the finished color of the stock. Then you can lightly sand the area, and refinish. Unless there is wood missing, or the color match is off, it should look fine. Lastly, most cracks behind the tang are caused by recoil. Before you refinish the stock, relieve the wood very slightly behind the tang, Mabey a 1/32", so that the wood does not quite touch the metal. Then, when reasembling metal to wood, make sure that the action screws are torqued to factory specs. Good luck. HAWKSHAW
  • COLTCOLT Member Posts: 12,637 ******
    edited November -1
    ...I did not see your other post(s) so this comes a little late.

    ..A tip for future reference for anyone who may not know already.

    ...To make sure, no matter the agent you use to fill a crack in wood/fiberglass type materials, take an appropriate sized bit to the size of the crack, just a tad larger; and drill a hole at each end of the crack, this will ensure that the crack does not ever "run" any further...[;)]

    ani-texas-flag-2.gif
  • swampthing36swampthing36 Member Posts: 273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the tips. The crack behind the back tang must not be deep. I squeezed the wrist with all my strength and it didn't close. Had it been deep the wood should of flexed. None the less I will do a little work behind the tang before I bed the action. I read on another forum that Husq's are known to crack due to poor inletting at the factory.quote:Originally posted by Hawkshaw
    Just a couple of suggestions. I usually tape both sides of a crack,(on the exposed surface), which helps clean up the uncurred epoxy, and also most of the excess, will then come off with the tape when curred. (use good 3-M tape so it doesn't tear, and leave tape adhesive on the finish). On the second, new crack, I use surgical tubing to "clamp" round surfaces like the wrist, or tang area. Works great. Also, just use the dye that is included to match the finished color of the stock. Then you can lightly sand the area, and refinish. Unless there is wood missing, or the color match is off, it should look fine. Lastly, most cracks behind the tang are caused by recoil. Before you refinish the stock, relieve the wood very slightly behind the tang, Mabey a 1/32", so that the wood does not quite touch the metal. Then, when reasembling metal to wood, make sure that the action screws are torqued to factory specs. Good luck. HAWKSHAW
  • swampthing36swampthing36 Member Posts: 273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    o.k. will do. and will report next time. quote:Originally posted by COLT
    ...I did not see your other post(s) so this comes a little late.

    ..A tip for future reference for anyone who may not know already.

    ...To make sure, no matter the agent you use to fill a crack in wood/fiberglass type materials, take an appropriate sized bit to the size of the crack, just a tad larger; and drill a hole at each end of the crack, this will ensure that the crack does not ever "run" any further...[;)]

    ani-texas-flag-2.gif
  • mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    While your at it, you should bed the rear of the tang in glas so it don't beat against the wood.
    The Accuglas gel is not as runny and will stay in place better than the glas.
  • swampthing36swampthing36 Member Posts: 273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by mrbruce
    While your at it, you should bed the rear of the tang in glas so it don't beat against the wood.
    The Accuglas gel is not as runny and will stay in place better than the glas.


    I glass bedded the action last night. I put about a 1/16th of an inch of bedding compound between the back tang and the wood of the stock. took the action out. Very first time I bedded an action. turned out darned near professional looking! Thanks for all the tips guys.
  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    An alternative to matching colors is to get some "wood dust" from a place it won't be missed (bottom of the barrel channel, mag well, etc) and mix it with the bedding compound.
  • swampthing36swampthing36 Member Posts: 273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
    An alternative to matching colors is to get some "wood dust" from a place it won't be missed (bottom of the barrel channel, mag well, etc) and mix it with the bedding compound.
    thanks for the tip! I've kept some dust from the ebony grip cap I fit to the stock to fill in small gaps. I'm fussy to!
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