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Stock screws

grandmangrandman Member Posts: 183 ✭✭✭
edited October 2010 in Ask the Experts
I have replaced my trigger on my sporterized Mauser with a timney trigger and when I replaced the stock the gun does not shoot as good. The gun shoots about 4' inches high at 100 yds. I think that it may have something to do with the stock screws. When I removed the stock they did not seem too tight, and when I replaced the stock I tighten them down to hand tight, tighter that they were. How tight should they be? Maybe 30" lbs.???? seems like a silly question but something has gone hay wire with the gun and I don1`t really want to start ajusting the scope if I don`t need too.

Comments

  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It sounds like you may have pressure on the barrel. Check to see if you still have barrel float. If it does, try different torque values between the screws.

    I have a 1930 Greek that I sporterized that shoots best with 36 inch pounds front and 26 inch pounds rear.
  • grandmangrandman Member Posts: 183 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks, Sounds good,I`ll check the free floating,I will try that and see if that does the trick. I think that I am going to bed the stock soon, I think that will help more than anything.
  • nononsensenononsense Member Posts: 10,928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    grandman,

    Before you go jumping into any more, I suggest that you look at a couple of places in the stock with regard to the way the action fits in that stock.

    First, be sure you have the rear guard screw pillar in place.

    Next, be sure that you have a space of about 1/16" between the magazine box and the bottom of the action. Too much space yields misfeeds, too little causes your problem along with others.

    Wood stocks often get compressed when subjected to screws being tightened so it's important to bed the barreled action. You need to insure that the bedding is stress-free in order to provide consistency and accuracy.

    Best.
  • 260260 Member Posts: 1,133
    edited November -1
    in most cases that i have come across.. when you install another trigger, you need to most often remove wood from the stock in the trigger area. sometimes just a smidge. inletting black would tell the tale. just my 2$ worth less a $1.98
  • grandmangrandman Member Posts: 183 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks nononsence, I`ll try all of your points. I do beleave that their is a pressure point problem somewhere. I feel silly not checking the free floating of the barrel before I worte this but as is I`ll try all of the suggestions and see what happens. I`ll let you know. I am sure it is a small problem. The trigger fit good with no removeal of any wood, I have had to do that in the past when I replaced other triggers. Thanks all and I will let you know how it turns out.
  • grandmangrandman Member Posts: 183 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Nononsense, what type of bedding compound do you use? I have in the past used Accu-gel with good sucess and have heard that it is good but there is so many kinds out there. Also, do you just bed the receiver and about 2" of the barrel from the reciver? I have read that some sporter barrels need the tip of the stock with a pressure point bedded there also. What are your thoughts.
  • nononsensenononsense Member Posts: 10,928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    grandman,

    "What are your thoughts."

    You will hear that every rifle is an individual and it will tell you what it needs. This is true for factory rifles of the generic type. There will always be exceptions whether in reality or just in the mind of the individual.

    Everyone will have their favorite(s) as far as brand name epoxies are concerned but this can be narrowed down a little.

    There are literally dozens of 2-part epoxies out there that can be pushed into service for the firearms industry. I've run the gamut from simple boat glass (clear, simple mix, inexpensive) to some of the most exotic metal filled epoxies available. All of them worked, some better than others, obviously.

    If you have a wood stock which is high grade exhibition walnut or some other expensive wood, I suggest boat glass because you can see the grain and structure through it after you finished. If the wood is of no consequence or you have a synthetic stock, I can recommend Marine Tex hands down. We bed more rifles than you can imagine, all with Marine Tex. I just received a pallet of cases today because we were low.

    http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

    If you want this, you can find it at your local Marine dealer in small kits for small projects.

    In the course of trying many others, the Brownells AcraGlas and Acraglas Gel both have worked just fine. Brownells sells tinting dyes to be used for matching the substrates also.

    When using 2-part epoxies, be sure to read ALL of the directions and follow them precisely. The mix and mixing time is critical in most.

    I pillar bed everything simply because every material is compressible if it's used for stocks. Pillars resist compression. The easiest method is to bed the action stress-free on pillars along with an inch or slightly more, under the chamber area. This is a commercial recommendation because it's what people expect. Personally I free float every inch of my barrels. But, if it looks like the barrel is going to overcome the tenon, I use a barrel block which free floats the receiver. This is for benchrest target rifles with large diameter, heavy barrels.

    Sporter-type barrels that might move a bit more after the application of heat from firing can sometimes benefit from a little upward pressure in the fore arm. I would start with the action bedding first and move on to the forend pressure if necessary. You can test this by using a piece of thin cardboard (shirt board) or other thin flexible material be fore committing to bedding the forend.

    Best.
  • grandmangrandman Member Posts: 183 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    thanks I`l try this and see what I can do with it.
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