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Stock screws
grandman
Member Posts: 183 ✭✭✭
I have replaced my trigger on my sporterized Mauser with a timney trigger and when I replaced the stock the gun does not shoot as good. The gun shoots about 4' inches high at 100 yds. I think that it may have something to do with the stock screws. When I removed the stock they did not seem too tight, and when I replaced the stock I tighten them down to hand tight, tighter that they were. How tight should they be? Maybe 30" lbs.???? seems like a silly question but something has gone hay wire with the gun and I don1`t really want to start ajusting the scope if I don`t need too.
Comments
I have a 1930 Greek that I sporterized that shoots best with 36 inch pounds front and 26 inch pounds rear.
Before you go jumping into any more, I suggest that you look at a couple of places in the stock with regard to the way the action fits in that stock.
First, be sure you have the rear guard screw pillar in place.
Next, be sure that you have a space of about 1/16" between the magazine box and the bottom of the action. Too much space yields misfeeds, too little causes your problem along with others.
Wood stocks often get compressed when subjected to screws being tightened so it's important to bed the barreled action. You need to insure that the bedding is stress-free in order to provide consistency and accuracy.
Best.
"What are your thoughts."
You will hear that every rifle is an individual and it will tell you what it needs. This is true for factory rifles of the generic type. There will always be exceptions whether in reality or just in the mind of the individual.
Everyone will have their favorite(s) as far as brand name epoxies are concerned but this can be narrowed down a little.
There are literally dozens of 2-part epoxies out there that can be pushed into service for the firearms industry. I've run the gamut from simple boat glass (clear, simple mix, inexpensive) to some of the most exotic metal filled epoxies available. All of them worked, some better than others, obviously.
If you have a wood stock which is high grade exhibition walnut or some other expensive wood, I suggest boat glass because you can see the grain and structure through it after you finished. If the wood is of no consequence or you have a synthetic stock, I can recommend Marine Tex hands down. We bed more rifles than you can imagine, all with Marine Tex. I just received a pallet of cases today because we were low.
http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html
If you want this, you can find it at your local Marine dealer in small kits for small projects.
In the course of trying many others, the Brownells AcraGlas and Acraglas Gel both have worked just fine. Brownells sells tinting dyes to be used for matching the substrates also.
When using 2-part epoxies, be sure to read ALL of the directions and follow them precisely. The mix and mixing time is critical in most.
I pillar bed everything simply because every material is compressible if it's used for stocks. Pillars resist compression. The easiest method is to bed the action stress-free on pillars along with an inch or slightly more, under the chamber area. This is a commercial recommendation because it's what people expect. Personally I free float every inch of my barrels. But, if it looks like the barrel is going to overcome the tenon, I use a barrel block which free floats the receiver. This is for benchrest target rifles with large diameter, heavy barrels.
Sporter-type barrels that might move a bit more after the application of heat from firing can sometimes benefit from a little upward pressure in the fore arm. I would start with the action bedding first and move on to the forend pressure if necessary. You can test this by using a piece of thin cardboard (shirt board) or other thin flexible material be fore committing to bedding the forend.
Best.