1895 Takedown help, Mid 1920's

Don McManus

Picked up a nice mid-20's 1895 takedown in 30-06 over the weekend.

Having trouble with the 'takedown' as I am guessing the barrel hasn't been removed for decades.

The Barrel lock slide is free, but can't get the barrel to rotate by hand, and am looking for a little advise before I put too much force to it.

Applied penetrating oil to the joint yesterday and am letting it cook. Will re-apply today and wait until tomorrow to try and break the barrel free.

Plan on using soft-jaws to hold the receiver loosely in the vice and an old smooth-jawed monkey wrench loosely on the barrel. I would prefer not to apply heat if I don't have to do so.

If the receiver and barrel are protected from marking from the jaws of the vice and wrench, what are the risks of impact (light, of course) vs. simply apply force until it breaks free?

rufe-snow

Any kind of a monkey wrench is a recipe for disaster in my experience. Use a heat gun and tap on it with a plastic faced hammer to loosen up the dried up grease. Then use a strap wrench with rosin under the strap to turn the barrel.

Bert H.

I sincerely doubt that it will require anything more than a little heat to break it loose after letting the penetrating oil do its work. Make sure that you apply the oil to the breech side of the barrel as well (open up the action, and put some oil on the outer edges of the barrel). Make sure that you twist the barrel assembly counter clockwise with the action fully open.

Don McManus

Thanks guys,

Finally had success last night.

After heating, even with soaking for 2+days, it still took more force than I was comfortable applying to break it free.

Let it soak another night, and tried steaming the joint last night. Then used a pair of 15" Crescent Wrenches over 1/8" leather on both pieces and it broke free with minimal effort.

Gotta think its been 50+ years since this has been done to this rifle. I can re-assemble it by hand now, but am still working some hardened gunk (for lack of a better word) from the threads to allow for taking it down by hand.

Last question: Any recommendation as to grease/oil for the threads upon re-assembly? I've put a little grease from a Garand Grease Pot on them for now.

perry shooter

any thing but WD40 I would bet that is why it was hard to get it apart. I like RIG and Also Ballistol The later will not hurt Wood or leather as well as non toxic.

Bert H.

Don,

For threaded parts that are subjected to frequent use or disassembly, I use molybdenum grease (sparingly).

Don McManus

Thanks again, Gentlemen.

You run a good shop here, Bert. Much appreciated.

Don