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what lb recoil spring for hot ammo
buschmaster
Member Posts: 14,229 ✭✭✭
I have a Glock 23.
I am shooting two types of ammo:
180 grain @ 1050 ft/s
165 grain @ 1130 ft/s
they have a lot of recoil, relatively speaking. power factor is almost 190.
the brass does get spit out fast & hard. I can't tell how far it goes to put a number on it because there's a wall next to me at the shooting range.
what strength of recoil spring should I use? the factory 18 lb may be good enough but I want to avoid frame battering. on the other hand I must avoid short-cycling due to an excessively stiff spring.
my options are 18, 19, 20, 22 or 24 lb. what is the best one.
********************
quote:Originally posted by mrmike08075
I ended up purchasing a pack of springs from Wolf (light to heavy) that covered all possibilities and contingencies
right, I can do that, but I don't know how to tell which one is not whacking the frame every time I shoot it. and it will take 50-100-200 rounds to verify it won't FTF/FTE etc.
**************************
rufe- I'm not worried about apparent recoil. doesn't bother me. just worried about the frame getting beat up.
**************************
perry- all I need to know. sounds like a plan. thanks a lot. [:)]
**************************
quote:Originally posted by Hawk Carse
I don't know about a Glock but a 1911 is about as bad off slamming shut with a very heavy recoil spring as it is slamming back in recoil.
yep I am aware of that. other dude was saying you aren't getting rid of recoil, just changing it from "backwards" to "forwards"... and the parts it slams into in forward motion, are not built to take it.
on a Glock that would be the slide lock (the tabs on both sides used to disassemble)
when the slide goes forward, it strips a round from the mag and loads it into the chamber. then the breech face comes in contact with the barrel breech. you see the barrel breech go up, then as the slide locks, the barrel goes forward another 1/8" or so and everything stops. that shows how the barrel is what stops the slide from forward travel.
so what stops the barrel from going forward? the slide lock.
that one part takes all the force of forward travel. when the slide slams shut, that's what gets slammed.
using only as much recoil spring as necessary will avoid that, and avoid problems with limp-wristing, FTF and FTE.
I am shooting two types of ammo:
180 grain @ 1050 ft/s
165 grain @ 1130 ft/s
they have a lot of recoil, relatively speaking. power factor is almost 190.
the brass does get spit out fast & hard. I can't tell how far it goes to put a number on it because there's a wall next to me at the shooting range.
what strength of recoil spring should I use? the factory 18 lb may be good enough but I want to avoid frame battering. on the other hand I must avoid short-cycling due to an excessively stiff spring.
my options are 18, 19, 20, 22 or 24 lb. what is the best one.
********************
quote:Originally posted by mrmike08075
I ended up purchasing a pack of springs from Wolf (light to heavy) that covered all possibilities and contingencies
right, I can do that, but I don't know how to tell which one is not whacking the frame every time I shoot it. and it will take 50-100-200 rounds to verify it won't FTF/FTE etc.
**************************
rufe- I'm not worried about apparent recoil. doesn't bother me. just worried about the frame getting beat up.
**************************
perry- all I need to know. sounds like a plan. thanks a lot. [:)]
**************************
quote:Originally posted by Hawk Carse
I don't know about a Glock but a 1911 is about as bad off slamming shut with a very heavy recoil spring as it is slamming back in recoil.
yep I am aware of that. other dude was saying you aren't getting rid of recoil, just changing it from "backwards" to "forwards"... and the parts it slams into in forward motion, are not built to take it.
on a Glock that would be the slide lock (the tabs on both sides used to disassemble)
when the slide goes forward, it strips a round from the mag and loads it into the chamber. then the breech face comes in contact with the barrel breech. you see the barrel breech go up, then as the slide locks, the barrel goes forward another 1/8" or so and everything stops. that shows how the barrel is what stops the slide from forward travel.
so what stops the barrel from going forward? the slide lock.
that one part takes all the force of forward travel. when the slide slams shut, that's what gets slammed.
using only as much recoil spring as necessary will avoid that, and avoid problems with limp-wristing, FTF and FTE.
Comments
I am certain they have been he same package for glocks.
I humbly suggest it's the best starting point and offers the most flexibility...
Mike
Cold and dirty firearms might due better with a lighter spring. Cold ammo can be a factor also.
Don't mean to go off on a tangent. But I used all of the than available, Wolf extra power recoil springs. I couldn't see much of a difference. Even with a 22 Lb. recoil spring. Still got the happy face brass. Apparent recoil, didn't appear to be much lighter. With the heavier springs. Never had any sort pf a problem. With Glock's plastic frame battering. Even with my red line reloads. .
Wolf's springs aren't that expensive. If you just want to experiment. I
just don't think it's going to make a noticeable difference, though.
I have a Glock 23.
I am shooting two types of ammo:
180 grain @ 1050 ft/s
165 grain @ 1130 ft/s
they have a lot of recoil, relatively speaking. power factor is almost 190.
the brass does get spit out fast & hard. I can't tell how far it goes to put a number on it because there's a wall next to me at the shooting range.
what strength of recoil spring should I use? the factory 18 lb may be good enough but I want to avoid frame battering. on the other hand I must avoid short-cycling due to an excessively stiff spring.
my options are 18, 19, 20, 22 or 24 lb. what is the best one.
********************
quote:Originally posted by mrmike08075
I ended up purchasing a pack of springs from Wolf (light to heavy) that covered all possibilities and contingencies
right, I can do that, but I don't know how to tell which one is not whacking the frame every time I shoot it. and it will take 50-100-200 rounds to verify it won't FTF/FTE etc.
**************************
rufe- I'm not worried about apparent recoil. doesn't bother me. just worried about the frame getting beat up.
The loads I put together for the G 20. Was nearly a case full of AA 9. Under a 135 grain Nosler JHP. I don't recall the velocity. But believe it was in the vicinity of 1500 FPS. Mangled the brass, never had any effect on the Glock.
when you reach a point that the slide will not lock back with this test you have found a weight that has a need for a one pound lighter spring
feel free to edit your post if you want to contract me via email and I will give you my email address I used to set up recoil springs for all the Virginia shooters that went To Camp Perry Sorry about All CAPS but it makes in easier to read Cheers Karl
also be aware limp wrist will give you false results on this test
I'd try one notch - probably two pounds - over stock.
I have a Glock 23.
yep I am aware of that. other dude was saying you aren't getting rid of recoil, just changing it from "backwards" to "forwards"... and the parts it slams into in forward motion, are not built to take it.
on a Glock that would be the slide lock (the tabs on both sides used to disassemble)
when the slide goes forward, it strips a round from the mag and loads it into the chamber. then the breech face comes in contact with the barrel breech. you see the barrel breech go up, then as the slide locks, the barrel goes forward another 1/8" or so and everything stops. that shows how the barrel is what stops the slide from forward travel.
so what stops the barrel from going forward? the slide lock.
that one part takes all the force of forward travel. when the slide slams shut, that's what gets slammed.
using only as much recoil spring as necessary will avoid that, and avoid problems with limp-wristing, FTF and FTE.
Unless your Glock 23 is vastly different than my Glock 22, there is a 'recoil block' that is in the frame. It's slanted forward and the slanted 'ramp' on the bottom of the barrel contacts this. This is what causes the barrel to rise 'into battery'.
The barrel (the area about the chamber) fits into the slide is what is also the ejection port. This fit is is anything but sloppy.
I'm not Gaston Glock but I believe that the 'wedge' recoil lug in the frame, the wedge on the barrel lug, the slide and slide rails on the frame all work in conjunction to prevent the barrel from moving forward.
The 'tabs' are for disassembly only. They don't act as a 'stop'