Question about sling stud

gunluv280

I have a Browning A-Bolt which has a front sling stud that, when it is tightened, the hole does not line up at a 90 degree angle to the gun barrell (hope that makes sense). I am afraid that if I try to tighten up the stud enough so that the hole is positioned correctly, I will strip the threads or break something (if I could even tighten it up that far). Because of this, when I put a sling on it, the sling angles off incorrectly unless I loosen the stud. But if I loosen the stud, the sling flops around because the stud wants to spin around instead of staying in place. Any ideas on how to correct this??? Not sure how it got that way, I bought the gun used.

makindu

You certainly don't want to overtighten (to obtain the 90 degree angle you discussed) for fear of stripping threads. Probably best solution would be to put some locktite on threads, and tighten stud to best possible compromise without stressing threads. Locktite will keep stud securely in place so that swivel/sling tugging (field use) won't unscrew it.

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peabo

If the stud is long enough, try puting a spacer between the the stud and the stock. Try different thicknesses of spacer until it lines up.

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gunluv280

Thanks for the tips. Both seem like good ideas, but since I already have locktite I think I'll give that a try first.

DONDALINGER

Peabo got it dead on the money. The best fix for this is a "polymer washer". They sell them at most hardware stores and are very cheap. Try the thinnest ones you can find because you may have to double up to get the right angle. The loctite may work just as well. Good luck.

"They call me Don. Dr. Jason Donald Dalinger."

sandwarrior

gunlove,

Not sure if the the fwd stud is a wood thread straight into the forestock or counterbored and machine screwed.
If it is a wood screw/thread dab an epoxy resin in the hole and square up the stud with plastic spacers underneath as described by peabo. What usually happens in this instance is the fwd stud tightens and crunches the wood fiber/structure of the forestock. This then allows the stud a shade extra(1/4-1/2 turn)room, thus creating the problem you have.
To alleviate this the epoxy will create a mechanical/adhesive bond between the wood and the screw. The polymer washer will allow you to tighten it up to the proper tq/tension while leaving it square with the stock and not crush the wood cells of the stock underneath it. -good luck

I forgot to add that you use the adhesive and not a solid anchor or "jam" material so you don't split the forestock....very important!

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