Blue Removal with Muriatic Acid

rhmc24

What is recommended percentage muriatic acid to water for blue removal? I've polished and prepped a New Service Colt for being nickeled and want to remove blue from some areas - as with a Q tip. Below, Thanks.

rufe-snow

Why don't you use the blue remover that Birchwood Casey sells?

EDIT #1, I've used Naval Jelly in the past, it's not compatible with polished surfaces. It appears to etch the steel, and leave a surface that is close to gray parkerizing in appearance.

thorhammer

Permatex Rust Dissolver Gel removes blue also, with out the harsh vapors

you'll encounter with muriatic acid.

Hangfire

Muriatic acid is a pain just trying to stay downwind when you open the container.. You'll have something around the house/shop much more friendly.. Vinegar works, so does any cleaner that contains phosphoric acid- Toilet bowl cleaner, CLR, Lime-Away.. Naval Jelly works perfect.. The Oxalic Acid I use in woodworking does it, as well..

rhmc24

I asked about muratic acid because I have it and use it for other things. Full strength it removes blue instantly and can attack the work. There is probably a practical lesser strength.

I also have Birch-Casey Rust and Blue remover which is only marginally effective in recent experience.

So - if anyone has an answer to my question I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will experiment.

navc130

I use 50% solution for rust removal. I would estimate 25% to 33% to just remove bluing. Be aware that the metal MUST be thourghly brused and cleaned afterward with water, preferably warm, to prevent rusting.

MIKE WISKEY

I use a 50/50 mix and dip just before blueing. as to the other methods... they work but much more $$$. a gal. of muratic acid from ace hdw is <$5 and lasts for a bunch of guns. I keep mine in a 3" pvc tube (upright) with a screw top.

iceracerx

If you choose to dilute acid, remember to add the ACID to the WATER.

NOT the other way around.

jerrywh818

I am an engraver and remove bluing on a regular basis. Muriatic acid is nastier than phosphoric. I Use phosphoric acid cut ot abuot 10%. You can buy it at any hardware store. I put mine in a plastic pipe and submerge the parts in it for about 10 to 15 minutes. Then I just brush them off with a real fine wire brush. The brushes that brownells sells for browning work great. The bristles are only about .003 in diameter. Don't ever leave them in the acid for any longer than about 1 hour. Blue remover is the same thing as phosphoric acid. So is navil jelly. Do not put it on any springs.

rhmc24

To close the loop --- I used 2 parts water, 1 part acid. It is the common one sold at home suppliers & hardware stores about $5 gallon, marked 20 degree. After boiling my parts in borax to get rid of oil, etc., I put two big cups of water and one of same cup with acid in an enamel vessel. Deep enough to cover the widest part, the cylinder, I put parts in one at a time and gently brushed the blue areas. For the frame it took maybe 3 minutes, smaller parts less.