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36cal black powder ?

KingrockerKingrocker Member Posts: 5 ✭✭
edited November 2003 in Ask the Experts
What are the minimum and maximum loads (powder) for a 36cal black powder revolver? I bought one (used) for my dad's birthday, but have no manual for it.

thanks in advance,

Rob Bankus

Comments

  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    I'd say between 15 grains to 22 grains for most .36 cal pistols I do believe. I suppose you could go lower if you just want the ball to roll up to the target [:D] Also, most will use around a .375 - .380 diameter ball....some experimentation may be required to determine which fits best in your pistol. When loading it should shave a thin lead ring off the ball when you ram it down the chamber. Make sure you ram the ball down directly on to the powder you don't want any air gaps, use either #10 or #11 caps....depending on which fits your nipples best....no, not there, the nipples on the gun I meant[:I][:o)]

    The use of a bore lube on top of the ball after you seat it or lubed patches between the powder charge and ball will greatly reduce fouling in the barrel and reduce clean up time but they are not absolutely necessary to fire a few shots off.

    annoyaliberal.jpgnotmyfault.gif
  • Rafter-SRafter-S Member Posts: 2,173 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The maximum load is the amount of FF black powder you can put under the ball and still have the ball seat flush with the end of the cylinder. The ball being flush is good, but not necessary (it could seat lower). To load with reduced powder charges, fill between the black powder and ball with Malt-O-Meal or something similar. I always used Malt-O-Meal.

    By the way: Do not give in to the temptation to use smokeless powder. Only use black powder or one of the new substitutes. Powders used in modern cartridges will blow your pistol to hell and your hand too.

    Rafter-S

    P.S. To get an idea of power: the 32-20 cartridge was, and stll is a hot little round. It is also originally a black powder round. 32 indicated the bullet size and 20 indicated 20 grains of black powder.
  • richbugrichbug Member Posts: 3,650
    edited November -1
    Speer #10 list 15-22 as previously mentioned. I think if you go below 10 you may get a ball stuck in the forcing cone.

    My border collie is smarter than your honor student.
  • powdersmokepowdersmoke Member Posts: 3,241
    edited November -1
    Ditto on most of the above.[:)]

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    When you wrestle a 'gator, there ain't no good end!!

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  • GatofeoGatofeo Member Posts: 230 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Minimum and maximum in the .36-caliber black powder revolver depends upon the model.
    In my Colt 2nd generation 1851 Navy, made in the early 1980s, I can get up to 27 grains of Goex FFFG black powder if I use just a ball on top of the powder and no hard felt wad soaked in lubricant.
    But I much prefer to use a hard felt wad, soaked in lubricant, between the ball and powder. It greatly cuts down on the fouling.

    In my reproduction Colt 1862 Pocket Model, 20 grains of Goex FFFG black powder is all I can get into it with a wad between ball and powder.

    In my reproduction Remington .36 Navy, which has a cylinder slightly longer than the Colt, I can get up to 30 grains of Goex FFFG black powder with a wad twixt ball and powder.

    So you see, the maximum load differs greatly per model (27 vs. 20 vs. 30 grs). Note too, that this is with black powder. I don't use Pyrodex P much; in my experience it's not as accurate as black powder and it's slightly more corrosive.

    As for the minimum, it's about 20 grains for my 1851 Navy, 12 for the 1862 Pocket Pistol and 20 for the Remington. I don't like to load small charges of powder in my cap and ball sixguns. Typically, they are not as accurate as a full load, much of this due to the ball having to leap a longer distance before it enters the barrel.
    Also, you run the risk of getting a ball stuck in the barrel if you reduce the powder a lot, or if your powder fails to properly ignite.
    There is also the problem of ensuring that the ball is tight down on the powder.
    Some models of cap and ball sixguns (the Remington in particular) don't have a long rammer to push a ball way down the chamber. The Colt 1851 Navy has a long rammer that will seat a ball way down the chamber but even it has its limits.
    I use corn meal as a filler between the ball and powder if a greased felt wad isn't enough. Add the powder, ram the greased felt wad down firmly on the powder, add corn meal to the top of the chamber and level it off with your finger. Then, add the ball and ram it firmly onto the corn meal.
    Actually, I wipe my finger down into the chamber a bit, after adding the corn meal. This gives the corn meal a dished-in look, which is about right for seating the ball. This has worked well for me.
    I think you wil find the best accuracy with black powder of FFFG grade and a full load.
    Also, remember that Colt designs typically shoot high at 25 yards, as much as 12 inches. If you add more powder, and increase the velocity, the bullet strike will be lower on target. If you shoot reduced loads, the bullet will move slower and the bullet will strike higher on target.
    Now, with the Colt models, this will raise the bullet strike even higher than it already is naturally. This can be aggravating, as you may have to aim as much as 12 inches below whatever you intend to hit.
    The Remington reproductions typically have very tall sights, and shoot low on target. This is easier to rectify than the Colts. Simply file down the front sight on the Remington --- carefully, a lick at a time.
    But shoot a cylinderful against a paper target at the distance you wish to sight it in, with each stroke of the file. Too much, and you have to buy a new front sight and start over.

    Here's how to load that revolver for best accuracy:

    1. Use black powder, FFFG grade, if possible. It's more accurate.
    2. Use a loading stand, that holds the revolver upright. This gives you a better feel for how much pressure you're applying to seat wads and bullets.
    3. Use a soft lead ball of .380 inch diameter for best accuracy. The .375 balls will work, but in my experience they are not as accurate. The larger ball, when rammed into the chamber, not only creates a better seal but also creates a wider bearing surface for the rifling to grip.
    4. Measure the powder consistently each time. Use a powder flask or small dipper.
    5. Use a hard felt wad, well lubricated with a non-petroleum grease (lard, Crisco, beeswax, etc.). Petroleum products, except paraffin, create a hard, tarry fouling.
    6. Add the powder to each chamber.
    7. With your thumb, press a greased felt wad into each charged chamber.
    8. Seat the felt wads firmly onto the powder.
    9. Seat the lead ball onto the felt wad, leaving NO space twixt wad and ball.
    10. If you use a greased felt wad, no lubricant is needed over the ball.
    11. Use a cap that fits snugly on the nipple. You'll need to buy a can each of No. 10 and No. 11 caps to determine which work best. I prefer Remington caps but CCI is fine.
    12. With the Colt design, the wedge that holds the barrel to the frame must be tight! Use a nylon-faced hammer to remove it or tap it back in. A steel or brass hammer will mar it.
    13. Before shooting your revolver, buy some Iosso Bore Cleaner (in a tube) or JB Bore Compound (in a small, plastic tub). Work this into a tight-fitting patch and run it up and down your barrel at least a dozen times. Then, do this with about 12 patches, for a total of about 144 patches.
    This will smooth the barrel and promote accuracy. After giving it this treatment, clean the residue from the barrel with Ronson lighter fluid on a patch. If you live in a damp area, leave a very thin film of oil in the bore with a dry patch, before putting away.
    Have fun with that revolver. I've been shooting one since 1970 and I'm still learning!

    "A hit with a .22 is better than a miss with a .44!"
  • njretcopnjretcop Member Posts: 7,975
    edited November -1
    Gatofeo,

    Thank you. I just purchased a New Model Army (Remington copy) .36 cal black powder revolver and you posted more info here than came with the owners manuel. [:D]

    After reading your post, I am more confident that I NOW know what I'm doing. That's the great thing about Gun Broker, so many helpful people!

    Thanks again for your post.......

    Blue_car.gif

    Charlie

    "It's the stuff dreams are made of Angel"NRA Certified Firearms InstructorMember: GOA, RKBA, NJSPBA, NJ area rep for the 2ndAMPD. njretcop@copmail.com
  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    Just remember ntretcop, the higher the powder charge you load into the gun the higher it is going to shoot.....you'll either have to make some adjustments to the sights with a file or just learn to aim low. You can adjust the sights by filing the front post or the rear notch....by filing the front post you're going to shoot higher and filing the rear notch you'll shoot lower.

    What I did on my 1851 navy was to figure out what loading gave me the best accuracy for range for power and adjusted my sights to that load and just stuck with it.

    annoyaliberal.jpgnotmyfault.gif
  • chuckchuck Member Posts: 4,911
    edited November -1
    I have a Lyman, 1851 navy 36 cal, I hate it, shoots Way high.[V]
  • njretcopnjretcop Member Posts: 7,975
    edited November -1
    Just returned from the range. My 36 caliber bp revolver is weak with 15 grains of powder. I am using Triple Seven fffg and worked my way up to 30 grains, a felt wad and the ball. Then it started to shoot!

    I only had CCI caps with me, because I forgot my Remington's. The CCI's did not perform very well for me. I would not use them again. The sidewallls are weak and split easily.

    All in all, it was a lot of fun and I look forward to my next visit to the range.

    Blue_car.gif

    Charlie

    "It's the stuff dreams are made of Angel"NRA Certified Firearms InstructorMember: GOA, RKBA, NJSPBA, NJ area rep for the 2ndAMPD. njretcop@copmail.com
  • rldowns3rldowns3 Member Posts: 6,096
    edited November -1
    The CCI's are probably best left to rifles as you only have to worry about taking a single shot with a rifle....I had the same problem with them on my revolvers, they would split apart and fall between the cylinder and recoil shield and jam up the action pretty good and it required disassembly to correct...which could be pretty dangerous if you bump a cap the wrong way while it's still on the nipple and it blows off your hand.

    annoyaliberal.jpgnotmyfault.gif
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