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S&W trigger adjustment
luvberetta
Member Posts: 125 ✭✭✭
I have a S&W 686. If I remove grip there is a screw and metal tang spring at bottom of frame handle, I if I back out screw a few turns my double action pull is very light ( I like that alot ) Just wondering if this is a DO or DON'T adjustment.
Comments
Neal
A simple action job on your Smith will improve the trigger pull. Find a good Revolver Smith and have some work done.
Just my 2 cents worth.
EDIT: spelling errors corrected
It's a sign of a kitchen table butcher with little understanding of how their gun operates when you see one with this screw backed off slightly. If the strain screw isn't socked down tight it will slowly back out due to vibration from firing and you'll begin to get light hammer strike misfires. In fact, this is THE Loc-Tite spot on S&W revolvers used for defensive purposes.
If you only use your gun for targets or plinking and wish to lighten your trigger pressure at low cost, pick up a spring kit from Wolff. These are reasonably priced and engineered for proper functioning. In addition to a different mainspring you'll also receive a lighter rebound spring. This coil spring returns the trigger to it's forward position and is responsible for quite a bit of your trigger pressure.
PS the SS Strain screw on my 625 was so soft that is lowered the trigger pull / hammer impact all by it's self as it mushroomed. The quick was a spent large pistol primer (that trick got me thru a service revolver match) and the replacement screw from S&W was long enough that it had to be filed down to the correct tension - where upon it too mushroomed - the Pistol primed on it still works like a charm.
quote:Mainspring: To lighten this dude, you can screw the strain screw all the way in and file a little off the end that bears against the spring. This is easy to spot because the stock screw is turned so it has a sort of "bullseye" pattern of tool marks on the end of it from being lathe-turned.
If you've overdone this little trick, take a spent small pistol primer, remove the anvil, flatten out the dent with a flat punch, and put it over the strain screw like a hat on yer head. If the "hat" is too thick, thin it with a flat file. Another way mainsprings are lightened is by draw filing the edges to make the spring .015 to.040 narrower. This is easy to spot because the stock S&W spring has rough edges - looks like the sides were sheared out. To reverse this problem, replace the spring and start over.
The two methods give two different force curves. Narrowing the spring has the added advantage of lightening the driven mass.
Rebound slide spring: You can replace this spring with the single-action-only K-38's rebound slide spring but if you do a little figgerin, you can buy a spring from an ordinary spring manufacturer that will do. Also I'm sure Wolff et alii sell suitable springs these days. You can recognize these springs because they are longer than stock. You can also feel them in the gun because the trigger pull is "flat" - it doesn't peak up as you approach hammer release. Another thing that's commonly done is to cut a few coils off the stock rebound slide spring. This is easy to spot because the spring
is too short and because most folks don't know how to re-close that open loop so it doesn't look like dog stuff. Also, the trigger pull is _very_ peaky, an effect I like but you may not - depends on how you shoot yer PPC - straight through pull (good when yer shooting a Colt snake) or pull up and squeeze off. There are more spring things you can do if you change the camming between the rebound slide and the hammer and bevel the hammer block, but these won't affect the reversibility of the spring conditions which give you a too-light hammer fall.
Thanks for the info TXS and the smart remark ( that always helps ) I will try the spring kit. Hope I don't cut off my arm with a meat cleaver when I install it.[;)] I have a brother-n-law in the wal-mart distrubution center, I'll see if he can get some MIADOL sent down your way[:D]
I didn't intend to come across as a smart *. My statement was to try and give you a better understanding of those who might try and tell you this is acceptable procedure.
The advice I gave comes from many years as a LE firearms instructor/armorer. S&W armorer's training teaches that part of your routine inspection, meaning every time you clean your gun, is to check that all screws are tight. Particular emphasis is given to the strain screw due to even a partial turn possibly rendering the gun incapable of firing.
quote:Originally posted by luvberetta
Thanks for the info TXS and the smart remark ( that always helps ) I will try the spring kit. Hope I don't cut off my arm with a meat cleaver when I install it.[;)] I have a brother-n-law in the wal-mart distrubution center, I'll see if he can get some MIADOL sent down your way[:D]
I didn't intend to come across as a smart *. My statement was to try and give you a better understanding of those who might try and tell you this is acceptable procedure.
The advice I gave comes from many years as a LE firearms instructor/armorer. S&W armorer's training teaches that part of your routine inspection, meaning every time you clean your gun, is to check that all screws are tight. Particular emphasis is given to the strain screw due to even a partial turn possibly rendering the gun incapable of firing.
Don't go getting soft now TXS [;)] nothing wrong with a straight shooter, tell it like ya see it . I was just funn'in . My skins thicker than that. Thanks for info that's why I'm here[;)]