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Remington mod 700 in 8mm rem mag
krazyboutguns
Member Posts: 57 ✭✭
I bought a remington 700 rifle, 8mm rem mag, cant seem to find much info in books for the caliber. The guy said he bought it new in 1979. excellant condition, can someone tell me something about the caliber? why cant i find this caliber listed, or am i looking in the wrong books?
Comments
However, for whatever reasons, the 8mm caliber still only remains strong in surplus 8x57. There is a reasonably wide enough selection of bullets so that you can shoot it either, a) to knock down elephants or b) knock the crap out of steel @ 1000 yds. The upper end bullets have enough BC to get you to 1k well enough. I suggest Sierra 200 SMK's or Nosler 200 gr. Accubonds. And with the power of that case it turns into a kind of vengeance.
I would suggest, getting a brake for the rifle and reloading for it. With slow powders That will push those heavy bullets over 3000 fps.
E-mail if you needs some places to start loads at.
The 8mm Remington Magnum is a long belted magnum case derived from the .375 H&H. This size limits the actions which are useful in handling a chamber of this length (3.6").
left to right: .325 WSM, 8mm Remington Magnum, .338 Win. Mag., .338 Remington Ultra Mag., .340 Weatherby Magnum
This is a cartridge since 'caliber' refers to diameter. Yes, even the Hodgdon copywriters got it wrong as do so many others...
Here is a brief synopsis from Hodgdon:
8mm Remington Magnum
"The 8mm Remington Magnum holds the distinction of being the most unsuccessful cartridge ever developed and introduced by Remington since World War II. Introduced in 1978 in the Model 700 BDL rifle, production in this caliber ceased around 1985 but was added to the list of options available from Remington's Custom Gun Shop in 1987. All of which is rather puzzling since the 8mm Remington Magnum seems a bit less ridiculous than the .338 Winchester Magnum for use on deer size game and yet it should perform just as well on elk and moose. On the other hand, the .338 Magnum had a 30 year head start, is short enough for medium length actions, and is available with heavier bullets. Perhaps we will never know the real reason why the Winchester cartridge did and the Remington cartridge didn't.
Even though the 8mm Remington Magnum hasn't exactly set the woods afire with its popularity, one would have to look long and hard before coming up with a better cartridge for use on elk, moose, and larger African antelope. Bullet selection is quite critical with this cartridge since only four are designed and constructed to hold together at magnum impact velocities. They are the 200 grain bullets from Nosler and Speer and the 220 grain bullets from Sierra and Hornady. All other 8mm bullets are designed for smaller cartridges.
Cases can be formed from .300 H&H and .300 Weatherby Magnum cases but their necks will be a bit shorter than 8mm Magnum cases available from Remington."
Source: Hodgdon Data Manual 26th Edition
This is a .pdf which contains a drawing and reloading information from Accurate Powders:
http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/PerCaliber2Guide/Rifle/Standarddata%28Rifle%29/323Cal%288.20mm%29/8mmRemington%20Magnum%20page%20294.pdf
Best.
Good luck with your new rifle!
EDIT: Forgot to mention: I had both of these rifles at my range one day. That was the first time I quit early because I'd had enough!
I have a Remington Model 700 'Classic" that was produced in 1998 in the 8mm Remington Magnum. I purchased 5 boxes of 185 grain Spire Point professional loads off a Professional Loading Company that sells on GB. I shot the rifle and must say, that with the loads I purchased, my' 7mm Remington Ultra Magnum kicks much harder! If the recoil is too much, then purchase a Remington Supercell "Wood Stock" Recoil Ppad for it. I am getting ready to purchase two to go on my' Remington 700's!
Frank
Recoil???????
I have a Remington Model 700 'Classic" that was produced in 1998 in the 8mm Remington Magnum. I purchased 5 boxes of 185 grain Spire Point professional loads off a Professional Loading Company that sells on GB. I shot the rifle and must say, that with the loads I purchased, my' 7mm Remington Ultra Magnum kicks much harder! If the recoil is too much, then purchase a Remington Supercell "Wood Stock" Recoil Ppad for it. I am getting ready to purchase two to go on my' Remington 700's!
Frank
I will continue to insist on the brake. As an example of what a good brake can do, I had an Armalite AR-30 in .300 Win mag. It doesn't kick as much as the 8mm Rem mag., but still kicks quite a bit. The effectiveness of the brake was phenominal. So good in fact, that I could watch the bullet hit having only held the recoil of the rifle with my (R) firing thumb. The stock, (skeleton type) was resting on bags and the front was supported by a bipod. That is one EFFECTIVE brake. Armalite also uses that size for it's .338 Lapua. I would consider it about the perfect brake for the 8mm Rem mag.
Getting kicked into yesterday and then telling everyone it didn't affect you isn't smart IMO. I know a number of servicemen who've come home from doing some intense, cutting edge training, only to be put on the back burner because of separated retina's. I myself went through shoulder surgery two years ago no doubt because of handling heavy recoil. So, hunstman53, when you say "Recoil????" as if to say the 8mm Rem mag doesn't kick I would include you in my previously posted thoughts.
krazyboutguns,
If you plan on doing much shooting of that rifle, get a system that reduces recoil significantly. Or pay the price.... now or later.
Edit:
quote:Originally posted by huntsman53
... "I have a code of sorts in which I believe that if a rifle is a tack driver and nothing is wrong other than the recoil, then don't modify the killing end if you can modify the crippling end.[:)]"
Frank
That's a very good point. Another option is a Mercury "reducer" installed in the buttstock.
I will continue to insist on the brake. As an example of what a good brake can do, I had an Armalite AR-30 in .300 Win mag. It doesn't kick as much as the 8mm Rem mag., but still kicks quite a bit. The effectiveness of the brake was phenominal. So good in fact, that I could watch the bullet hit having only held the recoil of the rifle with my (R) firing thumb. The stock, (skeleton type) was resting on bags and the front was supported by a bipod. That is one EFFECTIVE brake. Armalite also uses that size for it's .338 Lapua. I would consider it about the perfect brake for the 8mm Rem mag.
Getting kicked into yesterday and then telling everyone it didn't affect you isn't smart IMO. I know a number of servicemen who've come home from doing some intense, cutting edge training, only to be put on the back burner because of separated retina's. I myself went through shoulder surgery two years ago no doubt because of handling heavy recoil. So, hunstman53, when you say "Recoil????" as if to say the 8mm Rem mag doesn't kick I would include you in my previously posted thoughts.
I understand what you are saying! Although the recoil from my' 8mm Rem. Mag. was much less than I had heard of and expected, I believe that the load had a big part in it. Sure, the wood stock and recoil pad that Remington puts on the Classic rifles (somewhat heavier and possibly denser wood grain and the better recoil reducing recoil pad material), probably reduce the recoil much more than a standard Model 700 BDL stock and recoil pad, I still can't shake the feeling that the load contributed the most.
While a Muzzle Brake is warranted and needed for some calibers for some folks, I am a bit of a miser. If I can purchase a new and improved recoil pad that will do a pretty good job of reducing the recoil at under $25 compared to cost of having a Muzzle Brake custom fit to one of my' rifles, then I will go the cheaper route! Also, I have a code of sorts in which I believe that if a rifle is a tack driver and nothing is wrong other than the recoil, then don't modify the killing end if you can modify the crippling end.[:)]
Frank