Pillar Bedding

hadjii

I just read another thread about bedding an action. It brought up an interesting question for me. If you pillar bed an action, do you or should you also glass bed the action as well, or should the pillar bedding be adequate? Thank You

tsr1965

Actually if you install the pillars right, you are joining the bottom metal with the action(top metal). Savage has the pillars molded right into the synthetic stock on a lot of their models, including the Stevens 200. From there it is the action screws that hold the stock to the action, you have to play around with the torque to find a sweet spot(usually around 60 inch pounds). This way the action has only two solid mating points that are solid. If you bed the whold action, you could create extra uncontrolled stress poionts. Also, as a general rule....make sure the barrel is free floated.

Best.

JustC

it always reinforces the system by adding glass bedding. The pillars can not stop flex of the action under recoil "torque". The bedding along side the action stops that and the bedding along the bottom of the action uniforms the harmonics. I always have BOTH done

mrbruce

They really need to be bedded even if they are pillared, it will give the receiver a lot more support during firing....

nononsense

hadjii,

"If you pillar bed an action, do you or should you also glass bed the action as well, or should the pillar bedding be adequate?"

I do both pillar bedding and action bedding but I do them simultaneously not as separate processes. In this manner, you can achieve stress-free bedding. The idea of doing both creates full contact with the action to reduce the possibility of unequal pressure on some points when the action screws get tightened. Unequal tension or pressure creates stress and then inaccuracy can result. The pillars allow the trigger guard and/or magazine (bottom metal) to be tightened to a finite point with the action. The screws tighten then stop, that's it.


Skim bedding no pillars


Contoured Pillars installed with bedding


Non-contoured pillars installed and bedded

Here is a good illustrated article about pillar bedding:

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Best.

hadjii

Nononsense, I've got to tell ya, that is some damn fine looking work there. Wow, what I wouldn't give to have my rifle stock look that good. What could I expect to pay to have a pillar/glass bed job done like that, and could you recommend a gunsmith to do it for me? Thanks

nononsense

hadjii,

That work is done by three different gunsmiths. I'm sure they'll appreciate the compliment!

The only one I know in Iowa is:

Gordy's Gunsmith Shop (Gordy Gritters)
1648 Cordova Ave.
Pella, IA 50219
e-mail: gordy@iowatelecom.net
Phone: (641) 628-3044
FAX: (641) 628-8472

You can pick anyone off of this list and be pretty well assured of a top-flight job:

http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsmiths.html

Charley Robertson manufactures his own brand of two-part epoxy as well as pillars. He also is a darn good gunsmith:

http://www.scorehi.com/

And probably the most acknowledged master of bedding is:

http://www.masterclassstocks.com/pillarbedding.html

Best.

hadjii

Aw yes. Gordy's Gunshop of Pella. I've heard alot of great things about him. Thanks for your help once again nononsense. I don't know what this forum would do without you.

nononsense

hadjii,

You're welcome! Fortunately I know a good 'smith in Iowa...

The Gunbroker Forums are chock full of knowledgeable folks who willingly share their expertise and experiences with all of us. Gunbroker Forums been around at least 10 years and I'm sure it'll continue to be around for a long, long time. Good folks with a great host makes for the best of websites.

Regards.

remingtonoaks

i do it seperatly first pillar then go take goup samples, them full bed take more goup samples compare the two and if its the same or better with full i leave it in it its worse with full i grind it out with a dremel, ea. gun has its own likes and dislikes