586 shell jam

57chev

I have a bright nickel 586 S/W .357. I am not the original owner, and do not know the previous. It is 99% gun. I am shooting factory ammo. When I use .38 ammo the shells eject fine, but when I shoot .357 the spent shells jam in the cylinder. They are so tight, they have to be driven out with a rod. I have used different brands of ammo and the results are the same. Got any suggestions?

William81

The previous owner likely shot a lot .38's through it. Clean it and try again

57chev

I have cleaned several times, cloth and brush.

57chev

quote:Originally posted by William81
The previous owner likely shot a lot .38's through it. Clean it and try again


I have cleaned several times with solvents cloth and brush and lubricated.

charliemeyer007

So tell us about the spent brass. Is it scratched full lenght or just near the mouth?

57chev

quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
So tell us about the spent brass. Is it scratched full lenght or just near the mouth?
opened with no obvious scarring. Is there any chance the cylinder was defective from factory (misdrilled,etc.) and got by QC?

brier-49

If 38 spl was shoot for any lenghth of time there is a lot of crud built up in the front of the cylinder. Soak with a good solvent and scrub with a .45 cal brass brush.

Wolf.

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I would almost bet that the cylinder is loaded up with baked-on crude from continued use of the shorter .38S&W Special ammo.

brier-49's suggestion of using a .45 caliber bore brush to clean the cylinder is a great idea. The fouling will have such a glassy appearance that it will almost look like the cylinder steel, but you should be able to see some deviation of the surface where the fouling is (if, indeed there is fouling).

If the .45 brush does not work, try a Lewis Lead Remover. They are pretty expensive for this task, but you could achieve the same result by picking up some brass pipe bowl screens from your local tobacco specialty store and using that on the end of a fairly tight-fitting dowell. You could also buy a brass pot scrubber from the grocery or WalMart and tear off a piece to use to abrade off the fouling residue. I hesitate to recommend a more agressive tool.

If fouling is not the problem, take it to a good 'smith.

pabooger

Ditto to what these guys said, it's a common occurence when shooting a lot of 38, and switching over to 357. The 38 leaves a powder residue ring after a time, very minut but still enough to tighten things up on the 357's!

57chev

quote:Originally posted by pabooger
Ditto to what these guys said, it's a common occurence when shooting a lot of 38, and switching over to 357. The 38 leaves a powder residue ring after a time, very minut but still enough to tighten things up on the 357's!


You guys have been a great help. I will use your suggestions. Thanks again.

SP45

Try using Kroil or PB Blaster in the chambers. Let it set overnight. Use a brass cleaning brush the next day. You might have to try it several days in a row. See if this will loosen it up. When you seat the 357 in the cylinder do you notice a slight resistance the last 1/16" Do all the shells come out hard or just one or two.