Jammin Browning A-5

gad38

I recently bought an A-5 Browning 16 ga auto with the safty in the front of the trigger gaurd(Pre WW2 i'm told). My problem is that the gun jams the empty casing in the ejection hole after firing.
Could this gun be designed for 2 5/8 shells? According to the Browning web page it was made about 1931...........Thanks, Greg

varmit hunter

There should be marking on are under the barrel to tell you chamber length.

The most important things, Are not things.

jkks

This gun is most likly chamberd for 2 9/16![8D]

gad38

I cannot find anything telling chamber length on the barrel although there are several symbols i don't understand. I also have moved the ring for high and low brass shells from top to bottom without making a difference.....Thanks, Greg

captkirk3@dslextreme.com

The early 16 Guage came in two sizes..2-3/4" and 2-9/16" Check Chamber depth........

Captain Kirk, Tech Staff

v35

Could you better describe how you have the friction brake parts arranged?

gad38

Tapered ring on bottom near receiver, spring, Then brass friction ring on top near barrel ring.Set for low brass shells....Thanks. Greg

JudgeColt

If the shell length is correct, make sure the magazine tube is not "gummy." My brother-in-law's Pre-War A-5 quit working and the cause was that he had wiped the magazine tube down with Hoppe's the last time he cleaned it (he has had the gun for sixty years, and should have known better), which turned "gummy" after a while. That caused the friction to be all off, and the gun malfunctioned.

chuck

I HAD ONE ONCE, IT WAS FOR THE SHORTER SHELLS, A GUN SMITH CAN OPEN UP THE BACK OF THE RECIEVER TO EXCEPT THE LONGER SHELLS, IT SHOULD NOT COST VERY MUCH. GOOD LUCK

timbroman

gad38 - Assuming you are chambered for 2-3/4"...Ditto cleaning and slicking up the outside of the magazine tube...as to my late 1950's Sweet Sixteen, I believe the proper order (and it sounds like you have it so) of recoil elements on the magazine tube is as follows. With the buttstock DOWN, from receiver upward:
1 - Friction Ring with flat surface up, against the Recoil Spring
2 - Recoil Spring
3 - Bronze Brake with beveled edge up, against the Barrel Guide Ring
4 - Barrel Guide Ring
After slipping the forestock over the magazine tube, I depress the barrel until I can hand-tighten the magazine cap until it STOPS. I know some A-5 owners who then back off a couple of clicks but I do not. It is my opinion that slack here can contribute to forestock splits. I am always tightened at the cap and this old stock has no splits. I don't know if this is the rule or not, but it has worked for me. Best regards, Jim

timbroman@aol.com

timbroman

Gad - Darned, I failed to say it but that friction description that I posted was for Low Brass/Light Load shells. Best, Jim

timbroman@aol.com

v35

That's the way he had the friction brake but he didn't say if he was using field loads or high base loads.
With some guns, the forend retaining cap has to be backed off a few clicks until the barrel flange is slightly forward of the receiver or jamming malfunctions occur.
To my knowledge, forend splitting happens when high base loads are used and the friction brake is on the low base setting. It can also happen if the magazine tube is oiled. This tube is designed to be kept dry in order for the brake to work.