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marlin 336

elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
edited March 2008 in Ask the Experts
Can anyone tell me when Marlin moved the serial number from the lower tang to the receiver?
Thanks,
Brian
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Comments

  • elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a Marlin 336 in ,30-30 caliber. The rifle was made in 1963. Was this era rifle ever made in .32 Special? I have been doing searches but can not find any info about a .32 Special with this rifle. The .30-30 and .32 Special have basically the same cartridge brass except for the caliber of bullet. It seems logical that it could have been marketed in .32.
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  • elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a Marlin model 336 (stamped on barrel) not sure if it's a "W" model as I've seen other's online auctions that have the gold trigger and carbine barrel band such as mine but they claim their's to be 336A. Mine is a smooth non-checkered stock with a gold 100 year (1970) medalion on the right side of the stock. I'm having a hard time placing a value on this rifle as a friend of mine would like to purchase it. I don't know if this medalion model is something that makes it more valuable or collectable. Can anyone help with a value of this? As far as I know this has never been fired and still in box although it is not a Marlin marked box.
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  • elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a Marlin 336 chambered in 35 remington. I like the rifle but I am not a big fan of the stock open sites. Can anyone tell me where I may be able to get a good set of iron open sites to replace the stock sites? Thanks in advance.
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  • elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am watching some auctions for 336 Marlin in 30-30 cal. The dates of manufacture vary from 60's to late 80's. Is there a difference in quality, as long as the guns are in good condition? I am aware the newer ones appear cheaper made, and at some point there is an additional safety added.
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  • elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I inherited a Marlin 336 30-30. It had been stored for a number of years so I stripped it down and thoroughly cleaned it. When I reassembled it the action functions smoothly, but the lever pops away from the pistol grip by about 1/2" when there is no pressure on it. My two Marlin 94s only more away far enough to clear the safety stud. Have I done something wrong or is this within normal specs?
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  • elk callerelk caller Member Posts: 18 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Does anyone know where I can get a synthetic stock for a marlin 336? I had it in the back of my jeep and the spare tire fell on it and scarred the wood I want to refinish it but put a synthetic on it for now. Also I found out how to get the stock off but is it just the one screw on the front wood part around the ring or is it more involved to get that peice off. thanks for any help
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  • walther86walther86 Member Posts: 263 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I put a Lyman 66 Receiver Peep Sight on my Marlin 1892 .357. I would really like to put one on my 336 as well. It's been an awesome sight for me. I just did some browsing and found their web page. Here's the link for you:
    http://www.lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/sights.htm

    Hope that works for you.
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  • PA ShootistPA Shootist Member Posts: 694 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have several Marlins, including a 336 in .35 Remington, one of my favorites. I like to use a receiver sight with a small ivory bead front sight. Lyman indeed has a good selection of sights that will replace the stock bead. I favor the small-sized ivory bead because it offers some fineness of sighting while still being instantly visible against most backgrounds, and doesn't reflect off to the side in bright light. I use the receiver sight most often without a disc screwed into it for hunting. This offers a "ghost ring" rear sight for me, the rear ring is scarcely visible, doesn't block out the background, yet my eye will very quickly pick up the front bead on the target, and naturally center the front bead in the large aperture for good accuracy.
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  • savage170savage170 Member Posts: 37,572 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Put williams fire sight on mine works real well for me
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  • Sav99Sav99 Member Posts: 16,037 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I too have a 336 in .35 Rem. and am not very fond of the open sights.
    Give Williams a try.
    http://www.williamsgunsight.com/
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  • lcdrdanrlcdrdanr Member Posts: 439 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a 336, tried a scope, too much. Wanted aperture sights but a buddy talked me into williams fire sights. Better than an aperture, I'm sold............ !!!

    Dan R
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  • tinmantinman Member Posts: 126 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Try this site Midwayusa.com they have all of youre shooting items, and will make you drool...lol happy shooting
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  • helimanheliman Member Posts: 597 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I went through this about a year ago with my 336A in 35 Remington. I purchased a Williams receiver sight and a Tru-glow front sight, a little taller than the original. The Williams rear sight could not be adjusted low enough, thus the taller front sight. This was especially necessary when I used Hornady Leverlution ammo. The combination worked great and revitalized a great rifle.[:)]
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