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Polishing charge holes.

JorgeJorge Member Posts: 10,656 ✭✭
edited June 2011 in Ask the Experts
I recently purchased a S&W 17-9 in .22 LR.

How can one smoothen the charge holes?

Even clean, the bullets fit quite tight in the charge holes, thus loading with an HKS speed loader near impossible.

Someone once mentioned a SiC impregnated rubber gadget made to polish such. How can I do it?

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • thunderboltthunderbolt Member Posts: 6,038 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Wooden dowel, very very fine polishing compound and a drill. Don't use anything coarse enough to remove metal.
  • JorgeJorge Member Posts: 10,656 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Will Flitz or Mother's work?
  • Wolf.Wolf. Member Posts: 2,223 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    yeah, any mild polishing compound like that...not cutting compound. JB bore polishing compound would be a perfect choice on a .45 .22 caliber bore mop. Paste-type toothpaste could also work. The wood dowel suggestion with a piece of tshirt or other cloth wrapped on would work, too, saturated with the polishing paste and worked in each chamber of the cylinder for a minute or so. Of course, don't get too enthusiastic and be sure to clean up well.

    EDIT--EDIT
    (see next reply)
    Excuse me, I am not trying to be confrontational, however, my opinion and suggestion is that you use the most conservative approach possible in doing this. I would be very hesitant to use a hone on the cylinder chambers; especially a powered hone. Unless your chambers are just too small for some reason, the polishing compound should do it. If it does not, there are other, slightly more aggressive manual means to try before you use a power hone. I would do this work by hand and start with a polishing paste, as mentioned, especially so if you have no experience doing this. There are other reasons to not go the power hone route, but the short answer is that it can get away from you and remove metal, destroying your cylinder in an eyeblink.
  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=1

    I love those things. They should be a size appropriate for 22LR chamber. Might touch base with Mikewhisky or nononcence as to which size.
  • nononsensenononsense Member Posts: 10,928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Polite Psycho,

    I was sort of waiting to see which direction your information would take with regard to the chambers in your cylinder.

    There is a difference between chambers which are tight from manufacturing as opposed to chambers which are tight from some form of built up fouling. Fouling can take several forms, from the grease used on that filthy Russian stuff to honest-to-goodness carbon fouling from shooting certain types of ammunition. Fouling can be removed by using some cleaners and nylon brushes.

    If the chambers are tight (minimum spec) from the factory then you need to use a good gunsmith who can modify those chambers correctly and consistently. There are very specific dimensions used for these chambers and simply going at them with a hone or polishing compound can be a recipe for ruining a perfectly good firearm. I've seen it done on more than one occasion and new cylinders aren't cheap.

    Be smart, examine the chambers to determine what is causing the tightness then take appropriate action.

    Best.

    ADDED:

    Please be aware that no matter what you've read or been told, S&W DOES NOT plug the chambers of revolver cylinders for any reason especially when the revolver is being blued. I don't know where this comes from but it's just plain wrong.

    Yes bluing has a higher coefficient of friction but this is taken into account during design and manufacturing and should have no bearing on a tight chamber.

    Best.
  • andrewsw16andrewsw16 Member Posts: 10,728 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have purchased new .22 revolvers that have had very tight chambers also. Upon inspection it appeared to be caused by two factors. The inside of each chamber appeared to be rough and it also appeared to have been blued. Both increase friction in a chamber. They probably took the cheap route and failed to plug the chamber openings before dipping in the bluing solution. I used a .22 cleaning brush, wrapped with 0000 steel wool, chucked into my electric drill to polish the chambers. Just keep the brush moving in and out while it is spinning, never letting it pause in any location. You can do this until the chambers are mirror smooth and the cartridges slide in and out easily. As was mentioned above, there is no need to take off large amounts of metal. Just polish and periodically stop and try to drop in a cartridge. It will be very clear when you have polished each chamber enough. When that happens, stop. [:D]
  • JorgeJorge Member Posts: 10,656 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks all for your replies.

    I'm leary about power tools and guns, so I'll try polishing by hand.
  • iceracerxiceracerx Member Posts: 8,860 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The old adage of "check twice and cut once" seems to apply here.

    You might be dealing with an over sized "star" which would give the feel of a cylinder that was "tight". Both the Star and the Cylinder bores need to be measured.

    I believe that NN has given the best suggestion for direction.

    If you don't have the measurement tools (small hole gage and a Mic) and specs, don't attempt the work. IMO
  • wpagewpage Member Posts: 10,204 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Had that problem on a pistol. If I let it cool down a little B4 extracting no problems.

    It was a heat expansion issue on that gun. The brass swelled up when hot.
  • USN_AirdaleUSN_Airdale Member Posts: 2,987
    edited November -1
    quote:I recently purchased a S&W 17-9 in .22 LR.

    How can one smoothen the charge holes?

    i presume you mean chambers ?

    what ammo are you using ?

    did you buy it new or used ?

    if new, return to S&W !

    if used, it may be possible that the prior owner used ".22 Shorts" in the gun, therefore a lead build up in the chambers, inspect the chambers very carefully, being a Doctor just X-ray the cylinder the lead will show up dark on the film, you also should have access to a "borescope", if you discover a lead build up here is the easiest way to remove it, being a Doctor, you should have access to Mercury....., that's right, Mercury ! plug the ends of each chamber VERY TIGHTLY fill each chamber with Mercury let set several hours or so, then carefully remove the Mercury, then using a nylon stiff bristle brush or or bronze brush and scrub each chamber vigorously.

    being a Doctor, i am fairly certain you are aware of the Mercury scare, it is less hazardous than gasoline, besides, i have used this method of clearing lead from chambers and barrels for over 50 years, you would be surprised at how many rifle, pistols and revolvers i have bought over the many years because the owner thought the barrel was "shot out".

    NOTE TO OTHER POSTERS: do not jump all over me for suggesting he use Mercury to clean out a leaded cylinder, if you disagree, fine, i admit..., amateurs should not be using any substance, compound, or any "hazardous material" without proper knowledge of said material.
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