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smith & wesson 5.45x39
dc7786
Member Posts: 6 ✭✭
i went to the range today shooting the russian surplus ammo after about 60rds my rifle jammed and the case is still in the chamber i had to pry the bolt back and ive bent two cleaning rods trying to push the spent case out. how can i get the case out? please and thanks..
Comments
Since you have already screwed up a couple of cleaning rods, take it in to a gunsmith. He will likely have, if he does a lot of work on AR's a "Upper receiver clamping block". This is used to clamp a upper immobile in a vise without damaging it. He might have to pore some Kroil down the barrel and heat the outside of the chamber area with a heat gun but he will get the case out eventually.
Make sure the gunsmith checks the extractor though after he gets the case out. You might have screwed it up on the rim of the steel Russian cartridge case.
As to the reason this happened, more info is needed. Had you been firing rapidly and got the barrel/chamber hot before the lockup? Some of the earlier Russian ammo had a wax like coating which melted inside the hot chamber building up until it got gummy enough to prevent extraction.
rufe-snow & Mobuck are right on-- I had a steel case Rusky 9-mm live round stick inside a Hi-Power chamber... sprayed Kroil down the tube, dropped a wood dowel every so often and couple days later the second day the cartidge darn near fell out by itself. Might work with any light penetrating oil also?
You haven't mentioned shipping charges back & forth to S&W?, so why not give this basic way a try?
45er
It was in the high 90s for a temp today and i was just sighting in a new rear sight for it then just trying to plink around. then she crapped out on me.. i dont rapid fire, even tho its cheap ammo... some one told me to freeze the upper for a couple days and see if the steel case shrinks? idk but i called smith and wesson and they are sending me a return slip but the estimated turn around is about 4 weeks.. this is my favorite shooter idk if i can go that long.. but hopefully they will fix it and fix it right.
To bad about the 4 weeks, but as long as it's on their dime and they don't hit you with any fees or S & H charges it's OK. If you have to wind up paying for any of these, plus the 4 weeks it's going to be out of your hands, I would get it worked on locally. I don't see it being a difficult or expensive problem for a competent gunsmith.
If you use heat (they sell these heat guns that look like a hair dryer pretty cheap at the discount tool stores), please be careful to NOT heat the metal up over 400 degrees Farenheit, as this could cause problems. Having said that, applying heat to the chamer area may loosen any melted elastomeric material that has melted or collected in there, thereby assisting the pentrant solution to work its way in there.
Acetone melts many elastomers, paints, varnishes, etc. Therefore, it would be useful for you to use acetone (or the solution, if you went that way) on a chamber brush and give the chamber a good scrubbing.
ALSO, I am not sure if this could cause your problem in your gun, but I have had similar stuck case problems in other types of guns wherein a case developed a very large split and stuck tight in the chamber, requiring some effort to remove it.
I cringe when I hear the word "pry" used in regard to most any firearm issue so resist that urge. If the bolt lugs are still engaged in the recesses, there's no way you can force the case out of the chamber. That's what holds 50,000+ psi when the round fires. The bolt carrier must retract about 3/8 to 1/2" before those lugs disengage. Don't hammer or use excessive force on the charging handle as it is not all that strong. You can loop a section of paracord around the T part of the charge handle so you can use your toe to pull while dropping the cleaning rod down the bore. I've had several of these cases usually due to someone trying to rechamber a fired case or poorly resized reload which usually take about a minute to clear if it's a fired case(not a live round) stuck in the chamber.
other than that if i do end up getting the case out how would i prevent it from happening again? its a fully chromed chamber and barrel thought it wouldnt stick that bad or is it just to aid in the cleaning of the rifle? i only have 800-900rds through it, only had this for 4 months.
smith and wesson told me they have lifetime warrenties for the original owner of the rifle which is me and its free shipping both ways..from what i understood
I have the upper fully appart i got the bolt out by using a flat head screwdriver. i tried prying the case out with the screwdriver as well and just ate up the steel case. as for the cleaning rods i tried slamming the rod down the barrel.. never actually pushing it until i turned to slamming the rifle onto the cleaning rod.. its supposed to be an off shoot of a military grade weapon so it should be able to take the abuse right? its my first ar style and well its like a very expensive baby so far..
other than that if i do end up getting the case out how would i prevent it from happening again? its a fully chromed chamber and barrel thought it wouldnt stick that bad or is it just to aid in the cleaning of the rifle? i only have 800-900rds through it, only had this for 4 months.
smith and wesson told me they have lifetime warrenties for the original owner of the rifle which is me and its free shipping both ways..from what i understood
It would be best to send it back to S & W, from what you have told us. Problem with the 5.45 X 39 is that Russian ammo with the lacquered steel cases is about the only stuff available, as far as inexpensive ammo goes. The only way your going to be able to shoot it in a tight commercial chamber is to scrub out the lacquer residue with a strong solvent and a tight fitting stainless steel chamber brush every couple of hundred rounds.
Also I would be careful using s stainless steel brush on any barrel, it can scratch, the bronze ones won't.
"CHAMBER BRUSH" and bore brush are two different diameters. Stainless chamber brush is not going to touch the bore. With a 5.45 X 39 chamber I would use probably a .41 SS borebrush on the end of a cleaning rod with the bolt removed to scrub the chamber. Using a aggressive bore solvent to get all the lacquer residue out.