opinions please

bpost

hi what is everyone's opinion on this rifle and price?
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=84114744

bpost

let's now compare the 45 long colt to the 44 and 41 mags as far as hunting whitetail deer and hogs anyone used these I would appreciate your input I think I have ruled out the 454 and 480 just too expensive it seems, I want adjustable sights so I am thinking blackhawk

bpost

after nearly 30 yrs away from black powder shooting, it seems i will be shooting the smoke sticks again.
my questions are, is there a real advantage to useing the black powder substitute,(i think it was called pyrodex or something like that) and is hopps #9 still agood bet for a good cleaning?
thanks in advance

bpost

good or bad on the Kahr Mk40 pistol. Thanks

bpost

I may have an porotunity to buy this Ruger pj97dc with 220 rounds ammo, soft carry case, holster and such for $350. It is most definatly used but in the pictures (that is the only way I have seen it so far) but does not look abused.

My blue book shows NIB $460, 80% - $215

Should I jump on it or try to talk them down more? They have allready admited they need the money. I found it as a private party sale on the net and would most definatly need to run the numbers on the gun to make sure it is not stolen as I do not know the people.





Thanks for the help!

bpost

If you shoot 4 different powders at a grain less than max with the same bullet how do you sort what loads to continue the process of load development?

jimbowby

[8D]---Have your next of kin buy a new gun and READ the reloading manual[:(][:I][:o)][:D]

I'm only wearing Black untill they make something darker

bpost

quote:Originally posted by jimbowby
[8D]---Have your next of kin buy a new gun and READ the reloading manual[:(][:I][:o)][:D]

I'm only wearing Black untill they make something darker


I've been reloading for 34 years, in that time I have yet to have a problem with anything. My next of kin are fine with my extended life potential.

If you have an opinion to add I welcome it, I am truly seeking knowledge. If not; please crawl back into your bottle.

My question, even if worded poorly is valid. How do you decide that a particular Powder/ bullet combination shows merit. All the loads I have shot seem OK, not one holes but acceptable. What is the next step that YOU prefer.

Thanks,
Bruce

Throckmorton

If they all shot to relatively the same spot I'd use up the ones that took more powder and then buy more of the one that took less powder.If they shoot the same why use more grains for the same result?

Throckmorton SASS #23149

ginmaster

There lies the next purchase. Here is a clue. Which one has more energy on target? Which one has the best velocity?

Chrono's cost money. The next step would to be to take data and decide which load is truly the best.[8D]

Just my opinion.

Stay Alert! Stay Alive. Good luck out there.

p3skyking

First you establish what you want. Accuracy, velocity, economy, etc.

You want a powder that fills the case, this aids in reliable accuracy and prohibits double loading. I myself blew up a revolver with Bullseye due to a double load.

You want to keep pressure below dangerous levels by observing the signs (shiny ring around the case head, cracked receiver, etc.)

You establish at what velocity you want, the faster you go the flatter your tajectory. Not economical to zip along at 3200 fps to go 150 yards. You waste powder and barrels.

If it's an established powder with a common weight bullet, the cookbooks make all this pointless.

Hope this answers your question somewhat.



Stolen from, and with thanks, to Kiwibird

p3skyking

quote:Originally posted by Throckmorton
If they all shot to relatively the same spot I'd use up the ones that took more powder and then buy more of the one that took less powder.If they shoot the same why use more grains for the same result?

Throckmorton SASS #23149


Volume (bulk) and weight are independent of each other. You want to completely fill the case with powder if possible for a couple of reasons. Safety and accuracy being the most important.



Stolen from, and with thanks, to Kiwibird

sandwarrior

Bpost,

In lieu of a Chrono try shooting at farther ranges and see which ones drop the most. There won't be much of a drop difference at 100 yds. with bullets varying up to 300 fps. But it will really show up at 300 yds. or more. I only say this assuming you tested accuracy at 100 yds., if you can shoot at 300 yds. do so and see how much it takes to get you bullet up to where you want it. Take those results home with you and find a ballistics calculator and figure your velocities from that.
Now, since you said you've been reloading for 34 years there is a good chance you were using a chrono. If so, and all the loads had reasonable accuracy verfied by another shooter whom you know to be good, I would just stick with the load with the least powder. Which you might want to verify again in the extreme cold this winter.
-good luck

We have the second amendment so that all the rest are secure....UNK>

ghotie_thumper

I would go with the most accurate load of the bunch if that's how you go about it. I usually load mine using the same powder and bullet but load in .5 grain increments right up to max. Take 5 of each load to the range and see which one gives me the best (most accurate) averages. I'll usually have 4-5 different loads (20-25 cartridges). When loading to near max the velocity is not as important as the accuracy to me. If I can't find a load using that powder that suits me then I will switch powders and use the same technique. I'm pretty sure that with liability being what it is, most reloading books are pretty safe up to the max loads listed so not much danger is there to go to max. On the other hand I do check every fired case for signs of pressure to be sure.

Common Sense is an Uncommon Virtue.

jimbowby

[8D]--Yo Bruce--I,m sorry if I offended you, I was trying to be funny and you took it to serious. These guys have given you some serious advice and all I could add is: I usually buy bulk bullets (except for my lighter cal. tack drivers) and I keep a record book, by caliber/firearm and stop (rifles) when I get under .500" 5 shot groups, I have also bought some powders (Bulk)IMR3350/4198/4831/4895 and AA2230c----So I try for my best target grouping with the HPBT bullets at 100/200/300 yds. Don't get mad at me I was just kidding--good luck--LIMBO

I'm only wearing Black untill they make something darker

JAK71454

I would consider cost and availablity of each powder. Lot numbers may be important also. Filling up the case is a good idea.

You could also repeat your tests firing more shots to give a better idea of consistancy. Jim

Jim Kammerer

mrbruce

I would use the one that breaks the most eggs at 500 yards [}:)]

Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.

v35

I would go with the powder that fills the case closest to capacity.
At a grain below max, pressure and erosion are considerations. The slower powder should be less erosive on your barrel throat.
This of course assumes that the powder satisfying the above gives acceptible accuracy.