In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

Ruger Single-Six "old model" mag. cyl.

usnrlcdrusnrlcdr Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
edited May 2003 in Ask the Experts
I am missing the .22 magnum cyl. for my "old 3-screw" Rugar single-six. I know that originally these were a return-to-factory fitted part. I have recently written to Rugar about this but in the meantime, does anybody know if they can still fit a new cylinder? Also, if they can't, what is the danger in buying a magnum cyl. on the open market? (Assuming I could find one.) Presumably Ruger had a good reason for wanting to fit the cylinder at the factory. Thanks.

Comments

  • PythonPython Member Posts: 267 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    usnrlcdr;
    It is still a factory/factory authorized
    fit up. There could be issues with a cyl bought alone.
    First is timing,It may not time and align properly.
    Second, There are slight dimentional differences from one production run to the next. This due to revisions and refinements done along the way. The gun serial number tells them what parts fit up to you're particular revolver. These I've noticed are changes in cyl axis pin diameter, chamber spacing changes from very early samples and later old models. Of course, new model singles six's are vastly different.
  • usnrlcdrusnrlcdr Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks Python. I guess I'll wait to see if Ruger can help me. I am reluctant to send it in due to the safety-conversion they do on the old models which lowers the value so much. (Of course the value isn't much without the magnum cyl either). Ah well.
  • uncle milouncle milo Member Posts: 419 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    do not worry about any safety changes the factory might make on your Ruger. they do not alter your gun in any way except to change a few parts. " All " orginal parts that may be replaced will be returned to you along with your gun. so that you may change it back at at any time you wish. although i can't imagine why you would want to.[:)]
  • gskyhawkgskyhawk Member Posts: 4,773
    edited November -1
    why he would want too---- because there is just something about the old 3 screw that is special
    usnrlcdr: I have a 3 screw 5 1/2" with just the 22 mag cyl. no way in heck that its going back to Ruger , if I want to shoot 22lr I just use a different gun [:D]
  • uncle milouncle milo Member Posts: 419 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    gskyhawk: i understand what you are saying about the three screw mod. i have two of them myself a single six .22-.22mag, blackhawk .9mm-.357 both have had the factory converison but both remain three screw models all the parts changed by ruger were returned to me and can be very quickly changed to bring the gun back to as issued condition. both are just as shootabile as they were before the converison but with added safety. the addition of the extra cylinder will add more shooting fun and more value to the ruger and the fact that fact all the parts are in place to convert it back to orginal maintains its collectabile value.
  • usnrlcdrusnrlcdr Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the information. Now here is the real question, I have located an available .22 mag cyl. Assuming the cyl. drops in and works, is there a danger in firing it? I'd rather not send it to Ruger if I can avoid that hassle. Is there a simple way to determine if the alignment and timing is correct without danger (e.g. I want to avoid "destructive testing")?
  • redcedarsredcedars Member Posts: 919 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    usn:

    You will need to check the timing and the cylinder to barrel alignment. The cylinder must lock into position at the moment of hammer fall. With the gun unloaded, draw the hammer back and hold it, depress the trigger and check the lockup. If ok, work the action while observing the cylinder stop in the gap between the bottom of the cylinder and the frame cylinder recess. In a well-timed gun, the the stop will come up and latch the cylinder just as the next chamber comes into alignment. It will not touch the cylinder until the relief cut in the cylinder is directly above it.

    A range rod can check the alignment. This tool is a bore diameter rod which is inserted into the barrel and all the way into the cylinder to the recoil shield. It should go all the way back on each chamber without resistance. Anyone with a lathe can easily make one of these, or they can be purchased from a gunsmith tools supplier.

    retired lt. cmdr?

    redcedars
  • usnrlcdrusnrlcdr Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks Redcedars: that is exactly what I needed to know. As to the last part, Navy Reserve, LT CDR retiring in September--6-years enlisted, 17 years Off. Good times, better memories!
  • redcedarsredcedars Member Posts: 919 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Glad to help. I'm just a hobby gunsmith, so if I got something wrong, I hope the real pros around here will correct me.

    redcedars
  • gskyhawkgskyhawk Member Posts: 4,773
    edited November -1
    uncle milo: yes I know that Ruger will do the replace parts for free and return the old parts but what I'm afraid of is that they would screw up a perfectly good gun in doing so, which they have done in the pass to one of our guns , thats why I would be hesitant to send it in
Sign In or Register to comment.