Some questions regarding parkerizing.

Dubanor

So a very generous friend decided to give me his old Para Ordinance Warthog for my birthday. The only problem is, it needs to be refinished. I've decided I want to Parkerize it. I like the look, the kits aren't all that expensive, and it sounds relatively simple to do, stainless steel container, chemicals, heat, voila.

My question is, what should I parkerize and what should I not? Obviously the slide. Obviously NOT the barrel or frame. but what of things like the sights, safety, slide stop, magazine catch, etc. Is there any way to know whether these might be damaged by the chemicals involved in parkerization?

One reason I'm concerned is that my buddy tried bluing the frame before giving it to me, and the bluing did quite a number on the metal. Apparently it's some sort of alloy rather than carbon steel.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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2011-09-22 22.54.33 by #1580;#1575;#1588;#1608;#1575;, on Flickr

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2011-09-22 22.54.14 by #1580;#1575;#1588;#1608;#1575;, on Flickr

nmyers

Yes, the barrel can be parkerized. You just need to put stoppers in both ends of the barrel first.

But, really, the finish is really messed up. I'd send it to a professional. With the mixture of different metals, I think a coating might look better & hold up longer than parkerizing.

Neal

EDIT: Do a SEARCH on this forum for "Gun Kote", & you will find prior discussions. That's probably best for you, as it will partially fill in the pits on your frame & even out the polishing on the slide. Protect your bore with corks; my liquor superstore sells a "Bag-O-Corks", a hobby center might have it.

ern98

A decade or so back I took the plunge and set up to do parkerizing. You are correct in that it is very doable on a small scale. I was able to purchase a good how too pamphlette at a local gun show that covered all the basics. If my memory serves a magnet will help you decide which parts will take a decent finish and those that won't. If the magnet won't stick well to the metal use a diferent finish. You don't even need a stainless vessel a regular steel one will work fine it will just get parkerized so don't try cooking in it later. You will want to strip all the parts down to seprerate. You don't want to parkerize assemblies. All the other parts I'd leave as polishied or hit with a bake on enamal in the color of your choice. I'd bet that the frame would lightly sand/polish back out somewhat and a bake on finish would do wonders for it. Good luck with it...

MIKE WISKEY

with the condition it's in I'd do one of the spray on baking finishes
(gun kote, et all)

Dubanor

Thanks for the advice guys.

I'm unfamiliar with gun-kote, is it easy to apply? Does the aerosol can work well? Is it as good as parkerization?

If one wants to parkerize a barrel, what does one use to block the barrel?

Sending it to a professional would probably be the smart thing to do, but unfortunately I'm a broke-* law student. Also, it's just something I'd like to do myself.

And considering the state of the frame, I doubt it's ever going to be worth anything anyway (to anyone but me). I'm afraid to sand down the frame, it's already seems pretty thin.

MIKE WISKEY

THE SPRAY ON BAKING LAQUER'S ARE VERY TOUGH, YOU CLEAN THE PARTS, SPRAY THE FINISH YOU WANT, AND BAKE AT ABOUT 300 DEG. F. bROWNELL'S HAVE SEVERAL KINDS AND YOU CAN PICK YOUR COLOR. DURACOAT IS ANOTHER BRAND
"Will it cover up the serial number to the point you can't see it?".........no, not unless it is barely redable now

yoshmyster

Ain't the frames aluminum? I have to say the frame looks like Edward James Olmos's face.

If it were me I'd strip the frame to see if the frame took a worse beating that you can't see before doing another chem. treatment.

I do have a question about the rattle can gun-kote. Will it cover up the serial number to the point you can't see it? I mean the bluing/chemical peel did a number on her.

Bill DeShivs

Your friend obviously owns a Dremel tool, too. Please take it away from him.
Check with Kimber to see exactly what the gun is made of. My suspicion is that the frame is aluminum, and the slide is stainless. If I'm correct, there would be no need for an applied finish-just metal refinishing.
You can't Parkerize either metal.
The gun needs more than a coating. The metal needs to be sanded to remove the Dremel marks, and the frame pitting. Unless you are a LOT better than your friend at using your hands and tools, this is best left to a professional.

tsr1965

quote:Originally posted by Bill DeShivs
Your friend obviously owns a Dremel tool, too. Please take it away from him.
Check with Kimber to see exactly what the gun is made of. My suspicion is that the frame is aluminum, and the slide is stainless. If I'm correct, there would be no need for an applied finish-just metal refinishing.
You can't Parkerize either metal.
The gun needs more than a coating. The metal needs to be sanded to remove the Dremel marks, and the frame pitting. Unless you are a LOT better than your friend at using your hands and tools, this is best left to a professional.


Kimber wouldn't know squat about this gun, as it is a Para-Ordnance, or possibly a Para-USA. It is an aluminum frame, and the Bluing did it no favors. If he sandblasted it before trying to blue it, he took off all the hardcoat anodize. The frame is then ruined...permanantly.

Best

RCrosby

Use it and love it for what it is. Assuming functioning is fine you have a great carry gun that you don't have to baby.
[:D][:D]

b0400879

LOL: "Your friend obviously owns a Dremel tool, too. Please take it away from him".

'Nuther perfectly fine rig here, (BBB).

Butchered
by
Bubba .....

Bill DeShivs

TSR-
Sorry, I misread the markings. He should contact Para.
The frame will be OK as-is, but it can certainly be re-anodized. It may not look great, but anodizing is done commercially, and can even be done at home. The frame can also be electroless nickel plated.