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having trouble with nickle plated brass

Will on kauaiWill on kauai Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
edited July 2012 in Ask the Experts
I have been reloading awhile almost all rifle,started reloading pistol 44rem and 45acp.The trouble I'am having is the heads won't stay put when seating in the nickle brass they slide in.I have no problem with regular brass. can someone tell me what you do to keep the head still till I crimp. any advice would be helpful thank you for your time

Comments

  • rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,649 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The problem is that the nickel plated brass is not as thick as the unplated brass. I had similar problems in the past with Remington brass. Use brass made by different manufacturers. I've always had good luck in the past with unplated brass made by Winchester.

    You might also try using one of the Factory Crimp Dies made by Lee. With this die it might enable you to tightly crimp the nickel plated brass sufficiently so that he bullets will be held in position without moving.
  • Will on kauaiWill on kauai Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    thanks rufie Iam using lee factory crimper but the head slide in before i can get them crimped.thank you also for info of brass being thinner then regular brass
  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Conversly, I don't think your problem is with the plated brass(sorry rufe). Yes, I know it is MINUTELY thinner, to make up for a couple millionths of an inch of plating, too. I have used plated handgun brass for almost 3 decades now, with no problems.

    Here is what I think is going on. That nickle plating is a little more slipery than the regular non plated brass, so it has less of a coefficient of friction. Back your case expander off, so it will just barely, let you get a bullet started on the case.

    I like the factory crimp die for the auto's, where it is an important function of headspacing on the case mouth. However, for my big, heavy, big beast protection loads for my BIG BORE(38/357 on up to 500 S&W), I still like a heavy roll crimp to help ignite all of that H-110.

    Best
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,346 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The only problem I ever have with nickled brass is it splits sooner.

    Have you checked the bullets diameter with a micrometer? Look at the profile on the expander stem in the die or bushing. Any build up of brass? Do the cases not take bullets when full length sized and not expanded?

    Know anyone else close by to try their components and equipment. I favor that something is out of adjustment or specification.
  • perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,390
    edited November -1
    Look on the reloading forum STICKY thoughts on crimping both revolver and semi auto pistol ammo. Long story short There is A LOT of different brass out there Remington is some of the thinest. When the sizing die tries to size the out side it leaves the inside larger then the Bullet you are trying to seat [:(]This can result in the bullet being pushed down in the case in a semi auto when bullet hits the feed ramp.[V]This in turn can cause very high pressure leading to case failure upon fireing . only fix if you insist on loading Remington is a sizing die that is smaller.With revolvers you will have loaded ammo that bullet may move forward in the case from recoil from shooting other rounds in the cylinder first[:(!]. Trust me on this I have 2 sizing dies for my Star reloader one for REMINGTON & TZZ brass and the other for WCC MATCH ,WW,FEDERAL brass. Have loaded close to 300,000 rounds of 45ACP. undersize bullets can also give you same problems many 230 grain BALL BULLETS are as small as .450 .This will allow bullet to be pushed down and with warm to hot loads CASE will fail . will blow grips off frame and ruin Magazine . [:(!]not fun

    EDITThere is a very good Bulls-Eye shooter and Pistol smith that lives on OAHU . He shot at Camp Perry for many years he might get you started in the right direction. I have records of his address if you are interested.
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    I sounds like your expanding the brass too much, or have some under size bullets (not heads). What bullets are you using, lead or jacketed [?] And what brand [?] And the 44 revolver or the 45ACP, or both [?] I've loaded nickle plated brass for over 40 years and only have had problems with them splitting a lot sooner than non plated.
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,221 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Originally posted by Will on kauai
    I have been reloading awhile almost all rifle,started reloading pistol 44rem and 45acp.The trouble I'am having is the heads won't stay put when seating in the nickle brass they slide in.I have no problem with regular brass. can someone tell me what you do to keep the head still till I crimp. any advice would be helpful thank you for your time
    [/quote

    DO you mean the bullets? It is important to use the proper names for safety and clarity.

    If so, use EXTREME caution with the 45's you are loading, see the sticky above on crimping for autoloaders. You need to bell less (if possible) or use a tighter sizing die. In any event you are one shot from a KABOOM if the bullet pushes back into the case during the feeding cycle. A taper crimp die is the proper die to use for the 45ACP, it holds the bullet firmly along its bearing surface to prevent it from pushing back into the case.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bpost
    Originally posted by Will on kauai
    I have been reloading awhile almost all rifle,started reloading pistol 44rem and 45acp.The trouble I'am having is the heads won't stay put when seating in the nickle brass they slide in.I have no problem with regular brass. can someone tell me what you do to keep the head still till I crimp. any advice would be helpful thank you for your time
    [/quote

    DO you mean the bullets? It is important to use the proper names for safety and clarity.

    If so, use EXTREME caution with the 45's you are loading, see the sticky above on crimping for autoloaders. You need to bell less (if possible) or use a tighter sizing die. In any event you are one shot from a KABOOM if the bullet pushes back into the case during the feeding cycle. A taper crimp die is the proper die to use for the 45ACP, it holds the bullet firmly along its bearing surface to prevent it from pushing back into the case.

    Second what Bpost said. When i first read your post, I thought "trouble with the heads moving around? What, is the case sliding around in the shellholder, or against the breech when chambering?" Because the bottom of the case is the head. I quickly realized you meant bullet or projectile, but in ballistics, being exact truly IS a safety concern.

    I have had similar issues with some brass. Personally, I just chucked it in the recycle bin. If you really want to use it, try not expanding the case after resizing down and perhaps belling the mouth only, very slightly, with an M die or Lee universal case mouth expansion die, just a smidge- followed by use of a taper crimp die. If it now grips the bullet tightly and doesn't bulge when seating, you're good to go.

    Alternatively, if you slug your bore you could try some slightly oversized cast lead bullets assuming you aren't using a Glock with polyagonal rifling. The slightly fatter bullet might grip the case better. Generally if a cast bullet seats and chambers ok, it's safe to go even if oversized a bit.
  • Will on kauaiWill on kauai Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thank you everyone for all your expert info.just to follow up.It's 45acp that i was having trouble with,and yes bullets not heads sorry for wrong info.after rereading my post i see what I left out. bpost yes i think I'am belling the nickle brass too much.jonk thanks too will be following your pointers.dcs bullets used were plated 185gr hps.anyways thank you all this forum is awesome learned alot from reading all the post over the years [:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
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