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s&w m&p revolver locks up

hankngunshanknguns Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
edited July 2012 in Ask the Experts
This gun will lock up on me always on double action, and now on single action. From what I have read I may need a new hand and extracter. This is a model 1905 I think (1947-1948) as the serial number has a S prefix and 996xxx. I have been able to find parts for the model 10 and the victory, but nothing inbetween. Is this gun compatable with any other models on parts like these? Any info would be helpfull, as this is a great revolver. Thanks.

Comments

  • rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,649 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Before you go out and buy any replacement parts, make sure the ejector rod is tight in the cylinder. I believe the early M & P's had ejector rods with right hand threads that tend to unscrew in use. Causing the problem you describe. After S & W switched over left hand threads on the ejector rod, the problem was resolved.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,346 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There can be many reasons for failure to operate. If you don't know what you are doing there is a good chance you will damage more parts. Any real gunsmith should be able to look over your pistol and give a good ballpark range for repairs. Maybe it only needs proper cleaning and the crane adjusted. Fitting, adjusting parts and timing reqires some skill.

    OK. So with cylinder empty can you thumb the hammer all the the way back to locked, press the trigger and have the hammer fall, 6 times. With the hammer down the cylinder should be locked in position and only have a little play. Does it feel the same each time or do one or more require more effort to cock?

    How does it feel just pulling the triger back six times any increased effort required between chambers, cylinder locked with hammer down.
  • hankngunshanknguns Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am not trying to be a gunsmith-just more informed what might be needed when I talk to a gunsmith,so maybe we are talking the same the same language.
  • navc130navc130 Member Posts: 1,014 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    As Rufe stated, a loose ejector rod was a common problem. It has a reverse thread, so to screw it in you turn it to the left.
  • JorgeJorge Member Posts: 10,656
    edited November -1
    Not only the hand will cause such problem You may also need to check the cylinder lock.
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by navc130
    As Rufe stated, a loose ejector rod was a common problem. It has a reverse thread, so to screw it in you turn it to the left.


    WRONG, the older revolvers had RIGHT HAND threads [:0] He needs to turn it to the RIGHT [;)]

    Does the cylinder open and close hard [?]
  • 62fuelie62fuelie Member Posts: 1,068 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    One other point to check with the S&W is the cylinder alignment. It can get slightly tilted by dirt or debris under the extractor star or by somebody doing a TV Private Eye move and swinging the cylinder shut with a snap of the wrist. Empty the cylinder, hold the revolver up to a good light looking at the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, draw the hammer to full cock and watch to see if the gap changes, release the hammer and repeat for each chamber. If the gap reduces or disappears there is a misalignment. If there is nothing under the star a gunsmith's services will be needed.
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,154 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by hanknguns
    This gun will lock up on me always on double action, and now on single action. From what I have read I may need a new hand and extracter. This is a model 1905 I think (1947-1948) as the serial number has a S prefix and 996xxx. I have been able to find parts for the model 10 and the victory, but nothing inbetween. Is this gun compatable with any other models on parts like these? Any info would be helpfull, as this is a great revolver. Thanks.


    I think we need a better explanation of what is meant by "locking up". Does this mean that when the cylinder is closed and you cock the hammer by thumb that the cylinder doesn't move? Or deso it mean that when you try to open the cylinder it won't open?

    We're all doing a bit of guess work, but when you say the problem first presented itself in DA it makes me think the cylinder bolt is not disengaging from the cylinder bolt recess in the cylinder.

    You can operate the Smith with the cylinder swung out, just hold the cylinder release to the rear manually then try to work the action. If it functions my guess would be the cylinder bolt is not camming down before the hand starts to move the cylinder. Replacing the cylinder bolt would be the way to go, I think, not replacing the hand and ratchet.

    Your revolver is a K frame and a cylinder bolt for the 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19 and so on would work but should be fitted.

    Hopefully it's just the ejector rod backing out, that's an easy fix.

    Edit 1: Since we're running out of responses, again suggest swinging out the cylinder & manually holding the cylinder latch (thumbpiece) to the rear. Thumbcock the hammer. This will eliminate the cylinder bolt dropping late as being the possible cause. If the gun functions properly & smoothly with the cylinder out my $$$ is on the cylinder bolt. That you pressed the cylinder to the rear and the gun worked is consistent with a cylinder bolt issue as doing so may change the relationship of the bolt to the cylinder recess - the cylinder recess is shallower on each end than in the middle of the cut.

    The cylinder bolt is the small, white steel tab that pops up & down in the center bottom of the cylinder opening in the frame of the revolver.

    Parts should not be too hard to find for this gun.
  • hankngunshanknguns Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I will try to get more detailed. I bought this gun off gunbroker two or three years ago. I did not notice untill later that it would lock up or hang up when trying to shoot double action, as I always shoot single action. The last time I shot this revolver it started to do it on single action. I would try to pull the hammer back but could not. I could wiggle the cylinder and get it to cock. I put it away untill it gets fixed right. I keep my guns clean and have checked a couple of things suggested. The ejector rod is tight and the cylinder alignment seems fine. I did notice something tonight. On double action dry fire if I lightly push back on the cylinder everything works great, If I don't it will hang up on me. Can there be too much endplay? I still worry about if parts are hard to find for this gun if needed. Thanks for everyones input.
  • machine gun moranmachine gun moran Member Posts: 5,198
    edited November -1
    Try it with the side plate off, so you can see some of the dynamics. The bolt may not be properly retracting, I've seen this freeze guns because the bolt pivot pin was broken and the bolt would be inconsistent in the degree and angle of retraction from its cylinder engagement. Bolt retraction occurrs at the first stage of trigger movement.
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