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A Remington Rand 1911A1 question with a twist

pagunguypagunguy Member Posts: 8 ✭✭
edited December 2003 in Ask the Experts
I have a 1944 Remington Rand 1911A1 pistol. Serial number 1385XXX. I received it from my uncle via my dad. My uncle was a Marine who served in the Pacific during WWII. He claims the pistol that I now possess was never fired (a war souvenir). I have the original box, and three original mags still in the oil paper wrap. However, over time in storage, the pistol has developed a couple of surface spots; 1) a minute amount of surface rust in the grooves of the serrations at the back of the slide, 2) several dark marks in the bluing on the frame. I believe that a thorough cleaning, and oiling will remove these marks. Given it has never been fired, I'd estimate the value at around $1000. Perhaps more. However, with some antiques, their value is greater if the patina is left as is. Can someone comment as to the value as-is verus cleaned-up?

Comments

  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,875 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Based on your description of the box and mags, I would guess that your uncle bought the gun from the Director of Civilian Marksmanship after WWII. (By War Dept definition, a "war souvenir" is ENEMY property.) Your gun was manufactured with a parkerized finish, so, if it is now blue, that would mean that your uncle had it commercially refinished. The value, at best, would be in the $400-500 range.

    As for the blemishes, while "patina" is desirable for furniture, it is bad for guns. However, we usually try to remove rust & stains in a way that does not destroy the remaining "good" finish. Some fellows like CRC, others like Hoppes #9, but my best results have been with Kroil; use a bristle brush in serrations/grooves, & lightly rub 0000 steel or (better) bronze wool everywhere else. If that doesn't work, just oil it well & live the results. Or, if you want it to look like it did when issued, you can have it reparked, but value will not increase much.

    Neal

    Remington_1.jpg
  • HeavyBarrelHeavyBarrel Member Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Your pistol is worth more than $400-500, don't belive me? Put it on Gunbroker at it will go for than that.
  • pagunguypagunguy Member Posts: 8 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sorry nmyers for my misuse of the term "bluing." I'm not an expert and the difference between parkerized and blued was lost on me. Obviously, not for you. The gun is the original parkerized finish. My uncle did nothing to the gun for nearly 60 years. Given that, I assume it's worth more than $400. Thanks for the advice about how to clean the gun. I plan on following the steps you outlined.
  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,875 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Well, that's a lot more hopeful.

    A near-mint R-R would easily sell for $1,200 or more, and the box/mags would make the price even higher. However, only the lightest surface rust can be removed by careful cleaning/oiling. The greater the amount of pitting, & the more original finish that is no longer there, the lower the value will go. Whatever, it will certainly be worth more than the range I gave you before.

    In order to completely inspect/clean/oil it, you will need to field strip the gun. The NRA has a handy reprint with instructions on how to do that, or one of the 1911 sites may have them. Don't attempt to take it apart without instructions, as you will likely damage it. When you disassemble it, note markings on the barrel (it should be blue & have HS or F plus a proof P).

    Neal
  • RancheroPaulRancheroPaul Member Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If your gun is "Parkerized" and not "Blued," I personally wouldn't be rubbing it with any steel wool or any other abrasive as that would have a tendency to "smooth" the roughness of the parkerizing and that would NOT be a good thing! ...... Clean with a soft brush and rag with solvent, re-oil and let it be however it turns out. Might be that the "spots" are only dried up oil/grease and will disappear with solvent. The brush should remove any loose rust or scale and the wiping down with oil after the gun is dry should tend to loosen any other "surface" oxidation.....just my 2 cents worth!

    I Miss The World I Grew Up In!
  • gonepostalgonepostal Member Posts: 604 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    here is a good link for your reminton rand

    http://www.model1911a1.com/Remington.htm

    the patina is expected on a reminton rand also ,but the dark brown spots should be to a min

    if you decide to list it at auction ,i would suggest looking at past and present auctions so you get a feel for what points need to be advertised {what markings etc},1200.00 bucks is not a unfair price ,the mags and the box will make that price much easier to obtain
    ,hopefully the proof and armory markings are strong ,this will help also ,but as long as they are there it is ok

    oh! i wouldn't advertise it as a war souviner ,someone might think it was five finger discounted , the gun is what it is

    the dark spots are rust under the finish ,you will not be able to remove them
    yep its me ,same one for 4 years now
  • RancheroPaulRancheroPaul Member Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Gonepostal: "Quit Posting So Much....You're Wearing out Your Keyboard!"

    I Miss The World I Grew Up In!
  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,875 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Whew! Good pick-up there Paul. I forgot to tell him to omit the steel wool after I found out that it wasn't blue, after all.

    Neal
  • njretcopnjretcop Member Posts: 7,975
    edited November -1
    Neal,

    With deepest respect to you, you forgot "SP" marked barrels made by Springfield. I have an original 1943 Remington Rand and it has a Springfield barrel.

    Just an oversight I'm sure.......

    vic.jpg

    Charlie

    "It's the stuff dreams are made of Angel"NRA Certified Firearms InstructorMember: GOA, RKBA, NJSPBA, NJ area rep for the 2ndAMPD. njretcop@copmail.com
  • kuhlewulfkuhlewulf Member Posts: 591 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here we go with me now. Are we sure the number of X's in his masked serno. is correct? I seem to remember that a lot of the RR 1911's were produced with a Du-Lite Blued finish over sandblasted metal, early in production. As for the "rust" dried cosmoline and other assorted military gunk does a good rust imitation. Just like I do a great Sean Connery. Scrape at it with a plastic fork or knife in the slide serations. If it crumbles its not rust. Just couldn't help but kicking in my cent and a half.

    James

    Whats next? A ban on automatic transmissions?
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