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S&W 36-2 Failures
worstenemy453
Member Posts: 1,041 ✭✭✭✭
I want to stock up on maybe a few parts for my S&W for that SHTF scenario when parts will be harder to acquire. This is maybe a 70'-80's model. I will be having some trigger work done to it.
What springs or misc parts would be good to grab up, or what is a common failure for this gun ?
What springs or misc parts would be good to grab up, or what is a common failure for this gun ?
Comments
Yeah its possible to shoot them enough to create end-shake, or knock them out of time, but that's going to take a fairly high number of high power rounds, and very few individuals really stress these guns that much.
As mentioned, unlike a Glock with its few easily replaceable parts, working on revolvers isn't trivial, so if you do want to work on these, you'll want the shop guide.
On this vs that, a snubnose has its own merits, amongst them simplicity, compactness, and reliability. You can easily slip this gun into a pocket for quick/emergency use and that can't be said about something like a Glock.
A 5-shot .38 is certainly not the best gun you can bring to a fight, but it might just be the best BACKUP gun. Looking at it from that perspective, I think in many cases, you'd be better off with a model 36 in your pocket than another magazine for your main gun.
For my M-36, and M-60's that I carry, I bob off the hammer spurr, and smothe the hammer body out where I took the spurr off, or blend it in. I then checker the very top of the hammer, so should I ever want to use it single action, I can do that. The bobbed hammer makes it nice to carry in a pocket.
Best
EDIT 1
v35,
Good point. The main spring should not be lightened in ANY carry gun. Reliability is the name of the game. The bobbed hammer, works with the full power mainspring, as you had mentioned, but if you lighten the main spring, you can get light hits.
There are some moving/mating parts internally that can be pollished out to make for an exceptionally smoothe DA trigger pull. I never mess with the single action sear on a carry gun.
Best
The only failures I've ever experienced from old S&W's were the cylinder latch (M-10), and the cylinder stop itself (M-27). I'd get some of those - they should interchange between different models of the same frame size.
An extra hand and sear, several end shake washers, along with main and rebound springs would also be nice. All those also interchange.
versus
a whole spare gun.
In all the years working on S&W revolvers, the only thing I have done to them are trigger jobs. I still have most of the parts I got in the early '70,s after going to Smiths school.
The very rarely break.
He may say the hammer needs to be full weight if you want to play with hammer spring and trigger rebound spring to lighten the DA pull.