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Iver Johnson Sealed 8 trigger question
rossowmn
Member Posts: 1,959 ✭✭✭
I have an Iver Johnson Target Sealed 8 solid-frame revolver. I'm not familiar with this gun and need advice.
It works in double and single action when I manually push the trigger forward and manually flip out the little lever at the back of the trigger guard. Obviously, I have a spring problem. My question: What kind of spring(s) will I need: flat or wire? Does one spring control both the trigger return and the little lever on the trigger guard? Numrich does list a "lever spring" as one of the very few parts available for this gun. Might that be what I need?
I have successfully disassembled, repaired and reassembled many Colt SAA and black-powder types of revolvers. Is there anything that will be vastly more complex inside the Sealed 8? Despite its very low serial number (first-year production), this gun probably isn't worth the cost of a gunsmith, so I'd like to try repairs on my own if I find the parts, but I don't want to create a basket case.
Thanks for any advice you may have.
It works in double and single action when I manually push the trigger forward and manually flip out the little lever at the back of the trigger guard. Obviously, I have a spring problem. My question: What kind of spring(s) will I need: flat or wire? Does one spring control both the trigger return and the little lever on the trigger guard? Numrich does list a "lever spring" as one of the very few parts available for this gun. Might that be what I need?
I have successfully disassembled, repaired and reassembled many Colt SAA and black-powder types of revolvers. Is there anything that will be vastly more complex inside the Sealed 8? Despite its very low serial number (first-year production), this gun probably isn't worth the cost of a gunsmith, so I'd like to try repairs on my own if I find the parts, but I don't want to create a basket case.
Thanks for any advice you may have.
Comments
And the sear (part sticking out behind trigger) takes a very tiny spring that's tough to make.
(The lever spring goes on the hand that turns cylinder)
And unless the serial number you're reading is one hidden on butt frame under left grip, small size means nothing, as on all but first mfg. of first model will have a letter prefix on the hidden serial that identifies period made.
So post pics and the "real" serial and we can tell you better what's needed.
You first need to identify what model you have, as flat trigger springs were replaced by wire type in 1909.
And the sear (part sticking out behind trigger) takes a very tiny spring that's tough to make.
(The lever spring goes on the hand that turns cylinder)
And unless the serial number you're reading is one hidden on butt frame under left grip, small size means nothing, as on all but first mfg. of first model will have a letter prefix on the hidden serial that identifies period made.
So post pics and the "real" serial and we can tell you better what's needed.
According to information from the late IJ expert Bill Goforth, this is what I have: I.J. TARGET SEALED 8 FIRST MODEL
(LARGE FRAME OCTAGON BARREL)
1932-1941
This revolver is the first major improvement of the solid frame double action model since its introduction in 1900. Large solid frame double action with pull in cylinder release; the cylinder features recessed chambers that fully enclosed the cartridge case head. Grips are one piece checkered wood. Caliber: 22 rimfire with 8 rounds cylinder capacity; Barrel shape is octagon; barrel lengths of 6 inches and 10 inches; Weight: 6 inch barrel 24 ounces, 10 inch barrel 27 ounces; Height with out grips 3 7/8 inches; Frame length 4 7/8 inches; Overall length: 6 inch barrel 10 _ inches, 10 inch barrel 14 _ inches. The 1938 catalog gives this revolver a model number: 6 inch barrel Model 68, 10 inch barrel Model 78. DOES NOT HAVE HAMMER THE HAMMER ACTION. (end quote)
So if wire replaced flat springs in 1909, mine will be wire. My serial number under the grip is M6670, which Goforth said should be a 1932 gun (first year). I've had success in making springs out of spring wire and even large safety pins and from spring steel in office-type binder clips. The tiny sear spring sounds challenging, but I guess I'll do some careful disassembly and see what I can do. i don't have much money tied up in the gun and know the parts are worth more than the whole (if "eee Bay" can be believed). Thanks for your advice and information.
It had a wire trigger spring and a very tiny coil sear spring, and Numrich doesn't show either available for the TS8.
The similar springs listed for the new model top break might be the same, you might call Numrich's customer service number and see if they know.
According to Bill's last revison, your Target Sealed 8 serial M6670 was made in 1938.
It had a wire trigger spring and a very tiny coil sear spring, and Numrich doesn't show either available for the TS8.
The similar springs listed for the new model top break might be the same, you might call Numrich's customer service number and see if they know.
Thank you for the update. I realized after posting that 1938, not '32, was the correct year[:I]. I'll check the later gun on the Numrich site and order the parts if available (which is always quite "iffy"). If they don't work, no big deal; I can save them for use on something else if ever needed. I do have a good collection of very tiny coil springs that might work for the sear. As for wire, I may be able to make one from spring wire. Fun to tinker, at least. Thanks again for the info.[:)]