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Ruger Blackhawk .357 transfer bar problem

midnightrunpaintballermidnightrunpaintballer Member Posts: 2,233 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited November 2011 in Ask the Experts
Ok guys, I just traded my Browning Hi Power .40 to my dad for his Ruger Blackhawk .357 Bicentennial model. I took the Ruger out to shoot and found a big problem. The transfer bar is catching on the firing pin and locking up the gun. Cant cock it. The transfer bar is loose inside. If you point the gun towards the sky, the transfer bar will fall away from the firing pin from gravity and will pass when you cock the gun. I took it all apart and I can't tell if there is supposed to be spring pressure on it somewhere or not. Although, I noticed a VERY sloppy fit where the transfer bar attaches to the hammer. Surely, it should have a better fit from the factory. Right??? How do I properly fix this?

Comments

  • GeriGeri Member Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Make sure the cylinder pin is all the way in. Also ck the pin and make sure the spring loaded pin in the cylinder pin is there, and will move in and out with some finger pressure. The photo on page 26 of Kuhnhausen's book has a very clear picture of the mechanism. Hope this helps.
  • AmbroseAmbrose Member Posts: 3,158 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    +1 on Geri's post. The spring loaded plunger at the end of the cylinder pin is supposed to put pressure on the transfer bar to allow it to pass the firing pin while cocking the revolver.
  • midnightrunpaintballermidnightrunpaintballer Member Posts: 2,233 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Ok guys, ill check it when I get back home. Even if that spring isn't the problem, im sure a good cleaning and a drop of oil wouldn't hurt in that area. Do I need to completely remove the cylinder pin to get to it? If so, how is that done? I know how to back the pin out and remove the cylinder, but never went any further with that. Is the sloppy fit of the transfer bar to the hammer normal?
  • Horse Plains DrifterHorse Plains Drifter Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 39,310 ***** Forums Admin
    edited November -1
    Has somebody taken this thing apart? I fixed a Super Blackhawk that a neighbor had got in a trade, that done the exact same thing as yours does. The prior owners had the thing apart(grip frame off, hammer pin out, etc.)and reassembled it wrong. I'm sorry I can't say what exactly the problem was, because I don't remember now. I got an exploded view off the internet, took it apart, found the problem, and reassembeled it.
  • ruger41ruger41 Member Posts: 14,646 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are videos on the complete takedown and reassembly of Blackhawks on ruger.com if that will help you.
  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you've backed the base pin out far enough to remove the cylinder that's far enough to, a: be sure that the n.m. pin hasn't been replaced with an o.m. pin which doesn't have the spring powered "pin" in the end, and b: assuming the pin is there, that it moves freely against the pressure of the spring. If you want a closer look, simply pulling the pin all the way out should do it for you. As for the looseness of the transfer bar, I'd say it sounds normal. My bet is that it's one of 3 things; an old model base pin, correct pin not fully seated, or correct pin with inner "pin" that should bear against the transfer bar either frozen in or the tension pin spring broken. If the spring is broken, (though I've never heard of that happening) then a new pin would be the easiest way out.
    Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
  • EVILDR235EVILDR235 Member Posts: 4,398 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk 44 magnum that had a base pin that would move forward when firing heavy loads and lock up the gun.I bought a Belt Mountain locking base pin that cured the problem.

    EvilDr235
  • midnightrunpaintballermidnightrunpaintballer Member Posts: 2,233 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
    If you've backed the base pin out far enough to remove the cylinder that's far enough to, a: be sure that the n.m. pin hasn't been replaced with an o.m. pin which doesn't have the spring powered "pin" in the end, and b: assuming the pin is there, that it moves freely against the pressure of the spring. If you want a closer look, simply pulling the pin all the way out should do it for you. As for the looseness of the transfer bar, I'd say it sounds normal. My bet is that it's one of 3 things; an old model base pin, correct pin not fully seated, or correct pin with inner "pin" that should bear against the transfer bar either frozen in or the tension pin spring broken. If the spring is broken, (though I've never heard of that happening) then a new pin would be the easiest way out.
    Good luck, and let us know how it goes.


    You were correct. It was the inner pin being frozen that was causing the problem. A good rinse with brake cleaner and a drop of oil got it running like new again. Thanks!
  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Glad you're back in business![:D][:D]
  • midnightrunpaintballermidnightrunpaintballer Member Posts: 2,233 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
    Glad you're back in business![:D][:D]


    Me too. Thanks again.
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