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Winchester 1901 - Firing at 1/2 cock

bkmach1bkmach1 Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
edited February 2019 in Ask the Experts
I have a 1901 (S.N. 66686) that I would like to get back in shooting condition. The issue is it will fire from both 1/2 cock and full cock position. Upon inspection, the hammer (2 notch) was broken between the notches and welded back together. When I work the lever, it will only go to 1/2 cock and then have to manually pull to full cock. Other than this is it functions fine and in sound condition, but have not taken apart to see what else might be wrong.

Other than the hammer, what should I look for that would cause it to fire from 1/2 cock?

Also, did Winchester ever make a single notch hammer for the 1901? Or were all internals the same as the 1887?

Brad

Edit....Here are photos. Looks like the repair job left too 'deep' a notch at the first position.
t6EvkDP.jpg

olMmxSA.jpg

i4my6IB.jpg

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    charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I don't recall ever working on one, but fitting after welding is important. It doesn't sound like they got it correct - could be bad alignment, stuff moved position during welding or warped. Maybe they didn't get all the excess weld removed. Other parts are worn, broken or missing.

    Need to find a good pic of the hammer's working surfaces.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winchester_Model_1887/1901

    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/winchester/shotguns-win/1901-2

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLn6Jje9RdE Hammer at the 4 minute mark.

    added Here is a quasi Schematic

    http://chiappafirearms.com/p_zoom/p_zoom.php?id=125&t=3

    Looks like the parts of interest include the trigger and the hammer plus whatever cocks the hammer to full cock.

    I need to go move snow, lots of snow.

    added2 Nice pics. Google had some other links that can't be here. One guy from the sass outfit found some newly manufactured parts. I would try JB Weld in the deep notch. It will not last long but will help you figure the fit. Brass/brazing can work too but the glue is easier to remove for re-welding. Angles on the working surface are critical - too shallow and they slip, too steep and the parts can lock like a dovetail. At least the parts are there and you have something to work with perhaps. For nearly 120 years old, Bubba hasn't been too mean to it.

    Snow is blowing fine, some rest and I'll clean off the truck. In a week, sunny Az for the rest of the winter.
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    rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,650 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In recent years, there has been a Chinese knock-off of the 1887. Imported by Century, and maybe others?

    Don't have a clue? How close the innards of the chicom are, as compared to the original? If all else fails. It might be a avenue for you to pursue. If the dimensions of the Chinese made hammer, are close to those of the original Winchester. At this late date, don't imagine obtaining a original Winchester 1887/1901 hammer in good shape. Would be very easy.
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    bkmach1bkmach1 Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've added some pics of the repair.

    Charlie, after posting, I found the same video you did. And found some pictures of 1901 hammers. Mine has been butchered.

    I'll do some disassembly later and see what it looks like taken down.

    I'll have to check with Numrich and Chiappa about getting a replacement hammer. Agree Rufe, an original would be scarce as hen's teeth.

    Good Luck on the snow pushing.
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    GeriGeri Member Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hi. You might try Jack First also.
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