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Stock Scratch - Poly Clear Coat

dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
edited August 2019 in Ask the Experts
I have a few scratches in the clear coat finish of a Browning 71. Doesn't go through to the wood. I've used a few polishes to dull the sharp edges and smoothed out, eliminated them as much as possible. Now I need to drop some clear finish into those scratches. I can use a toothpick and Birchwood Casey or poly type clear coat. But I could have sworn there was a fine line dispenser product out there just for poly coat stocks - pretty sure I bought one and of course can't find the darn thing now. ANyone know of such a thing, who makes it?

Comments

  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've used this on a couple of Browning stocks with success.
    https://tinyurl.com/y2yxsmr9
    It's water thin and will self level. The sheen will also closely match the original stock finish. So long as you don't get carried away and apply an excess amount the repair will be nearly invisible.
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks. I was thinking of a super glue type material but thought it would eave a tell tale outline or change color.
  • hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,121 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I bought an old blr that had gotten wet and the clear coat was flaking and turning white, got good deal though, I removed the deep clear factory coating and just put an oil rub on it. The wood under the clear was very nice and got a lot of compliments when I would put it on table at the gun shows, almost everyone would ask if it was special order because it didn't have that factory gloss finish. just in case you can't match it up proper you may go this route.
  • bambihunterbambihunter Member Posts: 10,675 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Or, along Hillbillie's suggestion, if it is not down into the color/wood. What about CAREFULLY sanding that clear coat down to where it is more or less level. It may be good as is at that point. Or, then re-coat it if you feel it is too thin at that point. Like most sanding, start coarser and going finer and finer the closer you get.
    Fanatic collector of the 10mm auto.
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ^

    That's what I ended up doing. Very fine, then used Markron poly coat to fill in. Took a few coats, but blended really well.
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