Remington Shotgun Wads??

I've been doing some research, and the more research I do the more confused I get.  So, this might be a really dumb question, but...
Are all Remington shotgun wads essentially interchangeable???
I know more about base wad construction, materials, uni-bodies and than I probably ever wanted to and I can't seem to tell if there is any material difference between the wads or not.
So here's the deal...I picked up a ton (several thousand) once fired shotgun hulls at an auction for a song.  They were all sorted into different boxes and in excellent condition, but some of them do look older.  Some of them are straight Remington, and others are Remington Peters.  Looks like the straight Remingtons have a flat yellow plastic base wad and a straight wall.  The Remington Peters have a conical tapered base wad which is either gray, paper or fiber (I can't tell which).  I'd like to reload these shells, but for the life of me I can't figure out what wads to get for them.  When I go to websites like Nachez, they don't seem to differentiate between different types of Remington.  When I go to Claybusters, they seem to make the distinction that their wads perform best in tapered shells.  So, is a tapered base wad mean 'tapered shell'?
I'm confused.
Thanks in advance for any input!


  • toad67toad67 Member Posts: 9,937 ✭✭✭
    Hulls need to be sorted by their model, not just the manufacturer. Hulls can have different internal base wads, that allow wads to seat differently. Wads also vary by their shot cup size, or the amount of shot that they hold, allowing the proper wad pressure over the powder, and their ability to correctly crimp. Sort your hulls by their model, and then figure out what powder you want to use, and the amount of shot in each shell. You will be able to find a load that works for you.
  • Flying Clay DiskFlying Clay Disk Member Posts: 34,849 ✭✭✭✭
    edited July 29
    Thanks, but I've already done all that.  These questions are specific to the model(s).  I'm trying to understand how to select the correct wad for the model / style of shell.  These are all 12 ga., typically 1 to 1-1/8oz loads, with preferrably WAA12 wads (if they'll work) and either WSF or Green Dot powder.
    I've reloaded tens of thousands of shotgun shells (so not a novice), but almost exclusively Winchester AA (hence all the Winchester stuff above). 
    What I can't seem to understand is what are the differences between the two Remington shell models I described in the OP.  They appear to have different base wads.  And yes, the reason for asking is I am acutely aware of needing the proper wad over the powder, which is exactly why I asked. 
    When I look up Remington Wads from vendors there doesn't seem to be any distinction other than tapered case and straight case, nothing about base wad style. 
    When I look in my reloading manuals I see:
    Lyman (3rd Ed.) - A hull type of "RXP" and a hull type of "SP", but this conflicts with the 4th edition which says...
    Lyman (4th Ed.) - A hull type of "RTL" and a hull type of "SP"
    If I take the later edition as gospel and look up loads I see the following
    RTL - 19gr Green dot, Win 209, WAA12 and 1166fps with 10,600psi
    SP - 20gr Green dot., Win 209, WAA12 and 1200fps with 10,000psi
    So, clearly there is a difference between the two hull types, but I can't even tell if these two types apply to the hulls I'm looking at.  I can find lots of pics on the web of the hulls I have, and everyone seems to love them for reloading, but I can't seem to find anything which identifies them as either "SP", "RTL" or "RXP".  I've read about 40 different websites which talk all around the issue, but don't address it specifically.
    Is this more clear?

  • toad67toad67 Member Posts: 9,937 ✭✭✭
    edited July 29
    Does going Alliant help? They have info for different types of Remington hulls. I've always found it easier to go thru the powder manufacturer for load data for shotguns..

  • Flying Clay DiskFlying Clay Disk Member Posts: 34,849 ✭✭✭✭
    Update - Turns out these shells are called an SPELV hull, alternately called SP.
    I understand the SPELV stands for Special Plastic Extra Large Volume, the SP stands for just Special Plastic".  They're apparently made for steel shot and large loads.  Remington marketed them under the "Hevi-Shot" moniker.  So they're an odd breed of cat apparently.  I guess not the only time Remington has made a weird shotgun shell.
    Not sure what to do with those yet, I did manage to get one to crimp properly with a little tweak to my MEC using a WAA12 wad and a 1 1/8oz load (not that this means much, just goofing around...no powder/primer, just a test).  I think I may have found a source for a load (Lyman's #5), but I don't have that edition.  I've got the 4th Ed. and I can't figure out if the "SP" designation is the same.  I may just wind up tossing these ones unless something turns up here.
    I got a metric ton of Blue Magic's as part of the same sale, so now I guess I'll go figure those out now.
  • toad67toad67 Member Posts: 9,937 ✭✭✭
    It's been a looong time, but I used to load bm's quite a bit.
  • love2shootlove2shoot Member Posts: 188 ✭✭
    Rem Gun Clubs, STS, Nitros, RXP, Premiers, Blue Magics and Win AA (new & old) all can use the same wad.
    Federal/Estate hulls are a different story!
  • WarbirdsWarbirds Member Posts: 15,444 ✭✭✭✭
    edited September 27

    As a guy who has reloaded maybe a million shotgun shells- I would say they are pretty forgiving if you are not loading them hot. The OAL of the hull may vary slightly which will change your crimp, but that is pretty quick to adjust properly.

    I know the purist will crucify me, but it is OK to start with a known load and make some slight incremental changes.

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