Loading/Reloading 338-06

Manoa-Fisherman

My initial efforts at loading my 338-06 was to use once-fired cases. I ran the expander on the neck with what I thought was generous lube without annealing before or after expansion.

Roughly 40% of the cases when fired split at the neck. When trying to run the fired cases through the die again, some of the cases split as well. I was just breaking in the rifle and testing loads, so I wasn't too concerned about losing so many cases.

My intention is to use only new 30-06 brass and expand them only rather than full-size the cases. I would appreciate any suggestions on how I should proceed with the process.

My specific questions are:

1. Should I anneal the cases, before and/or after running the expander?

2. What particular lube should I use to expand the neck of the cases?

3. Is there a particular manufacturer of brass that is recommended over another when it comes to problems with expanding the neck or splitting after firing?

Thank you for any advice you may provide.

rufe-snow

Try fire forming the brass with small charges of fast burning pistol powder. Put a TP wad on top of the powder fill the rest of the case with corn meal or cream of wheat, with another TP wad compressing it in the neck of the case. Don't use Remington brass, try to get Federal or Winchester. Make sure that the proper headspace is maintained when fire forming the brass.

Manoa-Fisherman

Thanks for the suggestion on fire forming. Only problem is that it takes more trips to the range to just make brass.

By the way, how would I know if the headspace was correct or not?

rufe-snow

quote:Originally posted by Manoa-Fisherman
Thanks for the suggestion on fire forming. Only problem is that it takes more trips to the range to just make brass.

By the way, how would I know if the headspace was correct or not?



Opening up the neck of the brass with a expander is what is called cold working or forming. It is considered work hardening which is though to weaken the brass.

With a controlled feed rifle each round can be manually placed under the extractor, then the bolt inserted into the rifle. With a push feed rifle the neck of each cartridge is deformed to insure proper and uniform headspace is maintained when the bolt is closed.

If the 338-06 chamber on your rifle is exactly the same as a 30-06 chamber except for the larger neck diameter, the above is moot.

Ambrose

I start with new brass and have experienced no case loss. I have had no problems with Remington brass in my .338/06.

EDIT: My .338/06 dies are RCBS and I simply run the .30/06 cases through the sizer as you normally would. I like Mobuck's method of using .35 Whelen brass but I have .35 Whelens also and the two cartridges look so much alike that I'd probably mix them up eventually if they had the same headstamp. it's a little easier for me to see the difference between .30 and .33 than it is to see the difference between .33 and .35

Manoa-Fisherman

quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
I start with new brass and have experienced no case loss. I have had no problems with Remington brass in my .338/06.


What is your exact procedure? Do you anneal the cases? What lube are you using? Thanks.

Mobuck

I didn't lose any cases when I necked down new 35 Whelen brass. Much better than necking up 06 brass for me anyway. By necking down, I can get a perfect headspace, more true neck to case alignment, and more even neck thickness. The Whelen brass is more costly but provides much longer case life and those neck splits will bite you sooner or later.

22hipower

I expand used 30-06 brass (whatever brand is available)and use one of the spray lubes. Easy to do and have had no problems with split necks although have only reloaded the cases two or three times each so far. With so much 30-06 brass available three or four loadings per case is ok with me. Have not noted any difference in accuracy between reloaded expanded 30-06 brass and factory 338-06 brass.

MIKE WISKEY

you could also do this in 2 steps, just run them partaly into a 8mm mauser die, then to your .338 die. also imperial sizing wax is the 'nuts' for any resizing

Manoa-Fisherman

Thank you all for sharing your experiences, knowledge and insight in response to my questions. I am looking forward to working up some loads for my 338-06. I even have some 275 grain Speers that I got for heavy brush bears that I was thinking about when I got the rifle made back in 1997. If I remember correctly, my best groupings were with the 200 grain Spire point Hornady.

sandwarrior

Manoa Fisherman,

Imperial sizing wax and take a bore brush with some of that on it and clean out each neck. Even though you're moving a pretty fair amount of brass it will feel like it's slipping on and off. If you aren't using the Imperial sizing wax, you'll probably be hearing the brass shrieking.

This stuff has helped me form 9.3x62 out of 30-06. It's way better than all the other lubes I've tried.