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Newbie Shotshell Reloading Question

meunkemeunke Member Posts: 1,407 ✭✭✭✭✭
So, I picked up an MEC 250 press in great condition, with a couple of charge bars and 12ga die set for a few bucks at an estate sale. I cleaned it up, downloaded the manual, and it looks to be in great working order.

I've ordered a load manual and watched a few youtube videos on the process. Still a lot to learn.

Here's my question: I know that some hulls are a lot better than others based on some of the chatter ('AA's?). Now, assuming I have picked out a load for 12ga 2.75", can I use ANY 2.75" hull? That hasn't been explained. I know some hulls are better for some things than others, but can ANY hull of the correct length be used for the load?

What about brass length?

Thanks in advance, guys!

Comments

  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,346 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It depends on the inside height of the base wad. The outside brass height is not important. The 6 or 8 point crimp will make a difference if you try and use the wrong crimp starter.

    Case, primer, powder charge and wad all work as a unit. Follow the data and you will be happier

    I like AA's.
  • meunkemeunke Member Posts: 1,407 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    So really the most important thing to check when picking up used hulls (aside from checking for failure and the like) is to figure out the inside height of the hull to make sure powder+wad will still leave the right amount of room?
  • 20gabob20gabob Member Posts: 232 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yes the hull is important when reloading shotshells. The hull will determine the ballistics of a shotshell. If i were you and just getting started i would only load one type of hull until i got more experience. Winchester AA compression formed hulls are one of the best hulls ever made for reloading. likewise Rem RTL and STS are both nice hulls to reload. Fed Gold medal is another. Most all of these take a different powder, wad, shot combo to maintain safe and effecient ballistics, tho all can be safely reloaded with mostly the same components. I recommend that got some good reloading manuals and do some studying before you start. That is always the correct way to do things. From an old fool who has been reloading for over 50 years and hasen't blown a gun up yet.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 7,346 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have AA's in red and gray. Low base 8 point. I have Upland's in 6 point high base. They take exactly the same load. I use the grays for sabot slugs. The AA's have the shot size number on the base in magic marker. The Uplands are for Buckshot #4 or OO on the base.

    It will be much easier to use one type of case, random pick up's not so much. AA's can be reloaded many times upwards of 20.

    I load 3 and 3/4 DE. 1 1/4 oz shot except the slugs are Max DE.

    added sorry the word "base" above should be brass in this post. I use the Lyman Shotsshell Reloading Handbook 4 ed. It has a wonderful explanation of the case types with pic's.
  • meunkemeunke Member Posts: 1,407 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the info, guys. A friend of mine does some casting, has an enormous amount of lead, and will be making 00 buck for me using the Lee molds, as that's what I'm most interested in loading and shooting.
  • JimmyJackJimmyJack Member Posts: 4,849 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    20 gabob is right on. I agree almost 100%. The reloader can be adjusted to any hull, but best to use one type. The new AAs seem to crush a bit easier than the red ones.
  • cbyerlycbyerly Member Posts: 689 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The wad and hull combination will make a real difference. Some hulls have straight walls inside and some are tapered. Be sure and get the correct combination. New AA hulls are different inside than the old AA hulls. Old hulls are tapered, new hulls have a shoulder near the base wad. A copy of the Lyman shotshell handbook is required reading.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,810 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'll offer the same advice my supplier offered me when I bought my set up.(similar to what 20gabob stated)

    Buy some Win AA red or grey(color is no differnce in recipe), Win 209, WAA12 or WT12 wads, 1or4lb of Red Dot powder (17gr WT12(18gr WAA12)to go with your 1 1/8oz charge bar(7 1/2 or 8 shot). This is a 1200fps load that doesn't waste a lot of powder and is low recoil.

    Load only this load(or type of load or one you choose) until you know the ends and outs of your loader.

    If you start crushing your hulls or wrinkling them I can walk you through some of the steps.


    Later on you will find that you can interchange primers and hulls when you understand the components and how the load recipe was formulated. Never substitute different shot charges.(Ex. using powder amount for 1oz load in a 1 1/4oz load, vice versa)

    Remington STS hulls can be used instead of Win AA. I like them equally.

    You may need to buy a manual brass resizer if you find your hulls sticking in you chamber. That model will resize the brass, but not as good as a collet resizer.
  • XP100XP100 Member Posts: 430 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Winch & Rem hulls are taper base and need a wad made for them. Federal, Rio and Estate are straight wall hulls and take a different wad. Some loaders are fussy about mixing different hulls. Some are a little different length than others and the crimps gat a little screwed up. I have my MEC 9000 set up to load, Winch. red and grey, gun clubs. game loads and Rem STS and Nitro 27's with not having to tweek and of the adjustments.
  • rsnyder55rsnyder55 Member Posts: 2,626
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bambambam
    I'll offer the same advice my supplier offered me when I bought my set up.(similar to what 20gabob stated)

    Buy some Win AA red or grey(color is no differnce in recipe), Win 209, WAA12 or WT12 wads, 1or4lb of Red Dot powder (17gr WT12(18gr WAA12)to go with your 1 1/8oz charge bar(7 1/2 or 8 shot). This is a 1200fps load that doesn't waste a lot of powder and is low recoil.

    Load only this load(or type of load or one you choose) until you know the ends and outs of your loader.

    If you start crushing your hulls or wrinkling them I can walk you through some of the steps.


    Later on you will find that you can interchange primers and hulls when you understand the components and how the load recipe was formulated. Never substitute different shot charges.(Ex. using powder amount for 1oz load in a 1 1/4oz load, vice versa)

    Remington STS hulls can be used instead of Win AA. I like them equally.

    You may need to buy a manual brass resizer if you find your hulls sticking in you chamber. That model will resize the brass, but not as good as a collet resizer.


    700X is an excellent powder also.
  • GUNFUNCOGUNFUNCO Member Posts: 2,920 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Lyman makes a good shotshell reloading manual. It explains a lot about hulls and reloading slugs and buckshot. It's worth the money you'll spend on it. I got mine at Bass pro but you can also order online.

    Here is a link...

    http://www.basspro.com/Lyman-Shotshell-Handbook:-5th-Edition/product/10206939/
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