Bullet Casting Method Question?

hermiem

Finally, I have everything that I need to start casting my own bullets again after about a 30-year "vacation." My question concerns dropping the molded bullets from the molds - of course after waiting sufficient time to allow them to "cure" in the mold. When my father, brother and myself molded bullets back then we would cut the sprue then lightly rap it and the mold with either a piece of wood, rubber mallet or plastic hammer INTO a 5 gallon METAL bucket of room temperature water. We did this at the suggestion from some "old timer" at the range. He said that the quick chill down will make the bullets a bit harder because they are now "tempered." Everything that I am currently reading about this part of the process indicates that this is incorrect, not to mention the possibility of lead splattering. (Which on occasion it did.)They say to let them fall on a folded-up old towel. Any suggestions on continuing dropping them into the bucket of water would be greatly appreciated.

charliemeyer007

Never strike the molds except the sprue cutter. Rap on the handle at the side or the hinge pin. I drop my bullets in a #10 can with a few inches of water and a rag to prevent splashing. Every so often pull rag back to the top. I start with cold water but it doesn't stay that way for long. Bullets with antinomy and tin will respond to a water quench, the effect will not last forever.

hermiem

Charlie,

Thanks for reminding me to rap the hinge pin. Also, thanks for the response about the dropping in a bucket of water.

Best Regards,

Mike

quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
Never strike the molds except the sprue cutter. Rap on the handle at the side or the hinge pin. I drop my bullets in a #10 can with a few inches of water and a rag to prevent splashing. Every so often pull rag back to the top. I start with cold water but it doesn't stay that way for long. Bullets with antinomy and tin will respond to a water quench, the effect will not last forever.

Cheechako

Back when i was into pistol competition, i cast thousands of bullets because that was the only way I could afford to shoot.

I never had any kind of water around the bench or anywhere near the molten lead. Too risky.

For you who quench the bullets, let me ask you, why? They are a lead bullet. You want them harder you change the alloy. You want them softer, you change the alloy.

JMHO

Ray

MIKE WISKEY

FOR HARD BULLETS DROP THEM IN A 5 GAL. BUCKET OF WATER, AT LEAST 90 DEG. ROTATION FROM YOUR MELTING POT (POUR LEAD IN TO MOLD, ROTATE YOUR BODY AT LEAST 90 DEG. TO THE BUCKET AND DROP THE BULLETS). FOR PUNCHING PAPER NO NEED FOR THIS, JUST DROP THEM ON A TOWEL.

just to note, the reason we tried to get the hardest bullets possible was for the silhouette 'game' harder bullet=more knock-down power

hermiem

Thanks! Love that big gun of your's there on your profile!



quote:Originally posted by MIKE WISKEY
FOR HARD BULLETS DROP THEM IN A 5 GAL. BUCKET OF WATER, AT LEAST 90 DEG. ROTATION FROM YOUR MELTING POT (POUR LEAD IN TO MOLD, ROTATE YOUR BODY AT LEAST 90 DEG. TO THE BUCKET AND DROP THE BULLETS). FOR PUNCHING PAPER NO NEED FOR THIS, JUST DROP THEM ON A TOWEL.

MIKE WISKEY

"Thanks! Love that big gun of your's there on your profile!"..............ABERDEEN PROVING GROUNDS, MD. 1969...........I'm still saving up for the first shot!

Sammowry

If you are afraid of water splash from water bucket; why not try what I FOUND OUT FROM WATCHING A YOU TUBE VIDEO - PUT AN OLD HUNK OF SWEATSHIRT WITH A HOLE IN THE MIDDLE ON TOP OF THE BUCKET OF WATER; TIE IT DOWN WITH A HUNK OF ROPE OR USE CLOTHES PINS.

Pour, wait for boolit to harden up in mold; knock sprue off on TOWEL. Shift a bit OFF table to waiting bucket with CLOTH COVER, open mold, drop boolits onto cloth. Watch for boolits to DROP, roll into hole. Listen to SssHHHH sound. NO SPLASH! (make cross cut X in cloth - NO SPLASH up.) Close mold - repeat.

C'mon guys - I am NEW at this! And if I can learn this - you can too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzNrmVoNE5k

I don't use a strainer in a bucket - I JUST FISH THEM OUT LATER WITH MY HAND... And wash my hand / arm after.

and if you REALLY want to mine some INFORMATION GOLD - DO A SEARCH FOR CAST BOOLITS.

NOW I gotta GO DO SOME CASTING!

bartman45

My cast bullets are very soft, non quenched, and there are no leading issues in any of my guns. Before casting my own, the "hardcast" I purchased from several suppliers in various sizes did lead. Unless shooting an auto loader, or very high velocity, in my opinion, a hard bullet is not required. I also do not want water anywhere near my casting operation.

perry shooter

I agree with Cheechako and Bartman 45. I cast thousands of 45ACP in both Lyman 4 cavity #45226 and H&G 4 cavity 68BB in the 1970's. Interesting that H&G directions state to keep a container of water to DUNK the mold block in if it gets too Hot . I thought W T F when I first saw this but it does work. As to dropping cast bullets in water there is no need. I used to buy LINO TYPE in the 1970's 1000 pounds at a time and cast straight LINO TYPE. then We started buying unlubed STAR bullets 50K at a time. Pistol bullets do not lead if you use the correct size bullet and correct Lube "soft not hard lube" I used star luber sized .001 over bore diameter. The star bullets were swaged dead soft. They never leaded the bore. Star went out of business and I cant get ZERO or other suppliers of Good Quality bullets to sell me unlubed bullets [V] so I am back to casting my own.

dakotashooter2

I've never had an issue with water splattering from the bucket into the lead pot and causing a problem. If the water hits the surface it immediately vaporizes. What causes a problem is if the water gets below the surface of the lead. Then you get the tinsle fairy. This can happen if you get a drop of water on your stir stick and put it into the pot or a drop inside the mold and try to fill it.
It does make bullets harder but then when you size them you will often soften them again.

243winxb

Lyman quote:Q: Is there anything I can do to make the bullets harder?
A: Cast bullets can be heat treated to increase their hardness providing your alloy has some antimony present. To heat treat your bullets: Cast your bullets in the normal manner, saving several scrap bullets. Size your bullets but do not lubricate them. Place several scrap bullets on a pan in your oven at 450 degrees and increase the temperature until the bullets start to melt or slump. Be sure to use an accurate oven thermometer and a pan that will not be used again for food. Once the bullets start to melt or slump, back off the temperature about 5 to 10 degrees and slide in your first batch of good bullets. Leave these in the oven for a half hour. Remove the bullets from the oven and plunge them into cool water. Allow them to cool thoroughly. When you are ready to lubricate, install a sizing die .001" larger than the one used to initially size them. This will prevent the sides of the bullets from work-softening from contact with the sizing die. Next apply gas checks if required and lubricate. These are now ready for loading.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/faqs/bullet-casting.php I have tested the method. Air cooling with the correct alloy is better IMO.

nemesisenforcer

A quick quenching will make them harder (marginally) but it will also shrink them (marginally.)

I drop mine on a towel and then throw the batch in a freezer for a quick cool down and hardening curing, but without the shrinkage (it seems, but I have no hard scientific evidence of this last claim.)

For drop out, get the Frankford Arsenal mold drop out spray; makes everything much easier, very little rapping or tapping necessary.

hermiem

Thanks guys for all of the beneficial tips. I'm sure that I'll have more questions. The more I read the Lyman Cast Bullet Reloading Book the more I'm questioning if I really need to purchase anymore equipment.


quote:Originally posted by hermiem
Finally, I have everything that I need to start casting my own bullets again after about a 30-year "vacation." My question concerns dropping the molded bullets from the molds - of course after waiting sufficient time to allow them to "cure" in the mold. When my father, brother and myself molded bullets back then we would cut the sprue then lightly rap it and the mold with either a piece of wood, rubber mallet or plastic hammer INTO a 5 gallon METAL bucket of room temperature water. We did this at the suggestion from some "old timer" at the range. He said that the quick chill down will make the bullets a bit harder because they are now "tempered." Everything that I am currently reading about this part of the process indicates that this is incorrect, not to mention the possibility of lead splattering. (Which on occasion it did.)They say to let them fall on a folded-up old towel. Any suggestions on continuing dropping them into the bucket of water would be greatly appreciated.

charliemeyer007

The reason I drop the bullets in water is that I tend to cut the sprue fairly green and the soft bullets will get flat spots from bumping together. None of my current 1911's are match grade. My first one was hand built by a guy that shot at Camp Perry. I shot several birds out of the air with that pistol. Sadly after like 15# of Red Dot and Bullseye plus others it was no longer that accurate. I still have the resulting smoothbore barrel somewhere in my collection.