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Options for Reloads

Ivan9686Ivan9686 Member Posts: 38 ✭✭
I just discovered that my 30-06 sizing die is defective and does not properly size reloads - too big. What are the safe options for resizing the reloads I have? I assume I could safely pull all the bullets, size and then reload but wonder if anyone has a simpler solution? thanks

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    charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think your only option is to pull the bullets and dump the powder in something for re-use. You should remove the de-capping from the sizing die and be real careful with the lube.

    Shell holder same brand as the dies. Most autoloader's need full length resized brass every time, some even need the small base dies. Not all firearms have round chambers, that will work with neck sizing only.

    Once in a great while you find a minimum chamber and a maximum die that aren't compatible, but not very often.

    With new dies to a firearm I don't load to many before I check the fit and function, cuts down on issues.
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    62fuelie62fuelie Member Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I ran into a similar problem with the first large batch I reloaded for my Garand, years ago. The dies I was using were standard instead of small base. I ran the rounds through a .45 ACP carbide sizing die with the spindle removed and it worked fine. It may be that I had that angel that protects fools sitting on my shoulder for that little excursion into laziness.
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    Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Question 1, where are they to big?
    Question 2, are you crimping? On purpose or accidentally.
    Question 3, were these cases originally fired in this rifle?
    Question 4, if you lay a straight edge from the base to the shoulder, can you see ANY light between the 2?
    Question 5, if you use a magic marker to color the shoulder and base, can you see any "rubs" in those areas after trying to chamber the round?
    Question 6, how did you set up the seating die?
    Question 7, did you try to chamber a sized case before moving on to bullet seating?

    No point in telling you how to fix what you have, until we figure out what you did wrong in the first place.
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    jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Tailgunner has it right on; what do you mean 'too big?'

    Regarding small base dies, I know that they must have a use... RCBS seems to sell them pretty well. For the life of me though, I've never seen a piece of brass that needed it; usually the issue was somewhere else. Maybe I've just been lucky, but before you go that route let's work out the other possibilities.

    How much reloading have you done so far?

    How did you determine seating depth? Could be something as simple as the bullets hitting the lands.
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    Ivan9686Ivan9686 Member Posts: 38 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Tailgunner 1954,

    Question 1, where are they to big? The diameter of the case. A factory loaded round will drop into the sizing die and is lose
    Question 2, are you crimping? On purpose or accidentally. No
    Question 3, were these cases originally fired in this rifle? No, they were either new or once fired. Factory loaded cases shot in this gun were lose in the sizing die.
    Question 4, if you lay a straight edge from the base to the shoulder, can you see ANY light between the 2? No
    Question 5, if you use a magic marker to color the shoulder and base, can you see any "rubs" in those areas after trying to chamber the round? Yes - the diameter is oversized.
    Question 6, how did you set up the seating die? according to instructions.
    Question 7, did you try to chamber a sized case before moving on to bullet seating? No

    Please note that this rifle chambers factory loads without issue.

    I've reloaded 45-70 and 38 Special rounds for years jonk with never an issue. This is my first experience with reloading 30-06s. Per my caliper, the seating deep matches specs.

    The chamber of the rifle is clean SoreShoulder. I ran 100 rounds of Hornady, Winchester, Federal, Lake City and Remington immediately afterwards with no issue.

    I recognize that me old sizing die was out of specs and I've replaced it. That is why my question was for any safe options other than pulling the bullets, resizing, and then reloading. Thanks
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    jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Something still sounds odd; if the cases were new, then sizing is really only to make sure the necks are in round. If they were once fired, then potentially the issues you describe could be happening.

    As to the safe solution, yes, if you don't have a bullet puller, it's time to invest. You will make use of it over the years. To make things SLIGHTLY simpler- if you have more brass, you could just transfer the load to those cases and resize the defective ones at a later time, all as one batch as it were.
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    richardaricharda Member Posts: 405 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    One that not been addressed - do the cases need trimming? Full-length sizing can make the necks too long for the ammo to chamber. Had this happen to me many years ago when I began reloading.
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    victorj19victorj19 Member Posts: 3,642 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
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    bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,664 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Ivan9686
    Tailgunner 1954,



    Please note that this rifle chambers factory loads without issue.

    I've reloaded 45-70 and 38 Special rounds for years jonk with never an issue. This is my first experience with reloading 30-06s. Per my caliper, the seating deep matches specs.

    The chamber of the rifle is clean SoreShoulder. I ran 100 rounds of Hornady, Winchester, Federal, Lake City and Remington immediately afterwards with no issue.

    I recognize that me old sizing die was out of specs and I've replaced it. That is why my question was for any safe options other than pulling the bullets, resizing, and then reloading. Thanks

    How do you know the die was at fault? It takes a LOT of sizing to wear a die out in a lifetime of use; and then only if sizing dirty gritty cases.

    Is the sizing die screwed all the way down to and actually tight against the ram when sizing? Some presses have enough slop to leave up to .125 between the die and shell holder when sizing.

    As far as saving the brass. Pull the bullets and dump the powder. remove the decapping pin and resize the cases.
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    JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    your answer to question #7 needs investigation. Use the old die, or the new die, either/or, and size a fired case. BEFORE seating, try to chamber a sized case. if it chambers, the problem is in your seating procedure.


    also, #5, WHERE exactly is the diameter too large?? at the shoulder/body junction? at the case head?

    try those two first...
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    Ivan9686Ivan9686 Member Posts: 38 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    JustC about half way between the neck and the base,
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    Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,584 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by victorj19
    After figuring out the problem, buy a case gage/gauge die like this one:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forster-Case-Length-Gauges-30-06-3006-CASE-GAUGE-30-06-CASE-LENGHT-GAUGE-/161187959285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25878d11f5


    right: Eventually get this 06 gauge is to make sure you are not oversizing, etc. 30;06 case can be resized to the point that the extractor may not eject a unfired case because the case shoulder is pushed back too far due to oversizing (sizing die screwed down too far) which results in a loaded case still in the chamber when you think you UNLOADED the 06. (bolt comes back indicating a empty chamber but it's still loaded)
    and get yourself a bullet puller. If you get a kinetic type, get a RCBS because they will replace the aluminum inserts FREE. (lifetime warrenty on their products, even used rcbs products)
    Use eye protection when using a kinetic and also place some foam ear plugs inside and the bullet points will not be blunted and the undamaged bullets can be re-used.
    I also have the clamp type rcbs bullet puller with spuds but the pulled bullets are smashed usually.

    Next time you size some hulls for any gun, try them in the gun BEFORE installing the reload components, then chamber test all the reloaded shells in a safe place BEFORE going to practice or hunting.
    STAY SAFE! (especially when using a kinetic bullet puller)
    Kinetic bullet puller is not user friendly when the bullets have been crimped into the hull)
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    JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    turn the die body away from the shell holder about 1- 1 1/2 turns, resize another case and see if that works. It may be pushing the shoulder back too far and bulging the case body. Try one that came out of THAT chamber when you do it.

    if you had a headspace guage, you could run this test without using the die. A FL die can push the shoulder wayyyyy to far back in some presses.

    look at the Stoney Point "head and shoulders" guage set, it's cheap and works very well.
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    pip5255pip5255 Member Posts: 1,630 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    the only simpler solution to pulling your charge would be to find someone with a sloppy chamber and have them shoot them off so you can try again to resize the brass. Good Luck

    by now I would have had them apart, resized and back together and gone to start all over again......................
    just because you could doesn't mean you should
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    charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=24830&catid=19938

    I like this style collet puller, it grabs tighter as you pull unlike other designs that loosen as you pull.

    Impact ones work ok most of the times.
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    Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,584 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
    http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=24830&catid=19938

    I like this style collet puller, it grabs tighter as you pull unlike other designs that loosen as you pull.

    Impact ones work ok most of the times.

    Just more info about bullet pullers, kinetic (impact) and collet types.
    The collet type pullers are more user friendly than the kinetic impact pullers and safer. I use a RCBS collet puller and have seen instances where I had to use a collet puller when bullets had a sealer or the crimp was especially tight and a kinetic puller would not remove the bullet.
    Sometimes when using the collet type puller the collet has to be tightened so tight that the bullet jacket is distorted and mashed inwards. I throw the distorted bullets in the trash even though I did accuracy comparison tests of new hunting bullets vs the pulled distorted hunting bullets in 223's and 30:06's and did not see any noticeable difference in accuracy in hunting rifles that were averaging 1 inch groups at 100 yards. Just cannot not force myself to shoot distorted reloaded bullets thru my own good accurate hunting rifles. I can reload the bullets when using a kinetic puller.
    Might reload the distorted bullets for brother in law guns.
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    charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The trick to sealed bullets is to seat them about 1/16 deeper to break the bond. If you look at the design on your rcbs collet puller you will see as you pull the collet loosen, there fore you need to really bite down on tight bullets to get enough grip to pull them.
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