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New Reloader
MrGunz22
Member Posts: 2,086 ✭✭✭
I am new to reloading and recently read something that said a person should not reload when it is raining outside due to the humidity difference. My place where i relaod is in the house where temperature is pretty much constant so should i worry if its raining outside or not?
Comments
In the meantime I would like to get my brass cleaned up so when I am ready I have that part ready to roll.
My question on cleaning with a vibratory tumbler is what media to use and how long on a batch do you let it go? I have ordered a Cabelas branded tumbler that is on the way as I type!
Thanks in advance to the great people of GB!
I read Bposts sticky so I'm probably going to order the abc's of reloading book tonight.
With the kit I have is there anything else (tool wise) that I will need to get started? I know I need dies and the components. I'm not sure what caliber I will start with. Is it better to start with pistol or rifle? I'm thinking maybe .357 or 44 mag. I have revolvers and rifles in both calibers.
Any advice appreciated. Thanks
For other accessories, get the excellent Redding/Imperial die sizing wax. Hornady's Unique lube is also well worth the cost (both are quite affordable) and indispensable for resizing tough cases.
Start with pistol. Get carbide die sets. More expensive but very durable and don't require any lube though just a hair of the above mentioned lubes on the cases will make the process that much easier.
Get a tumbler and media and a polish/recharger compound like Dillon's rapid polish or the Frankford Arsenal stuff. Clean cases resize and function much better than ones covered in soot, dust, and corrosion.
For rifles, if you have bolt actions, get neck sizers. The Lee brand is great, low price, and very effective. For semi autos, lever actions, pump actions, full length resizing is necessary.
Hope this helps.
Both .357 and .44 are about the easiest rounds to handload. Either one is a good place to start. Definitely get a set of carbide pistol dies rather than the cheaper steel dies. The carbide dies are well worth the little extra money.
Welcome to the dark side [:D] . Good luck.
Probably start with some inexpensive bullets. Bullet puller is prob good idea. Thanks for the tip. What size primers do I need?
Belling cases for lead bullets should be just enough to avoid cutting/shaving the bullets. Crimp for wheel gun loads must be enough to hold bullets in place.
Ball type powders meter well compared to big stick one.
Case length can be critical for some dies.
Keep a note book or at least filled out data card with your ammo.
Try a few rounds of you ammo for fit and or function before you load a bunch.
Once I find the load the gun likes, I stock up on those components. Enough powder and primers to load the bullets. For rifles I like to buy 200 rounds of brass, for pistols 500 or a 1000 at a time.
Way easier to ask questions if you are unsure of anything than to heal and pick up the pieces of a catastrophe.
If you do your part the best ammo in the world for your firearm will be the stuff you customed loaded just for it.
Appreciate the info. I decided to start with .357. Do any of you reload .357? What powder do you use? I'm thinking unique.
Probably start with some inexpensive bullets. Bullet puller is prob good idea. Thanks for the tip. What size primers do I need?
Yes, the bullet puller is one thing I forgot.
Primers: small pistol for most purposes, small pistol magnum for the hottest of loads, though the regular primers will work almost just as well for even the hot loads
Powder: Unique is a great choice; wide range of applications, excellent power to weight ratio, will push bullets to within 90% of the velocity of the magnum powders with far less. For true magnum applications, Hodgdon or IMR 4227, H110/Winchester 296, and the like are the order of the day.
FWIW, I find it very unnecessary to really push the envelope with magnum speeds and pressures. Moderate loads, even to the level of 38 special in the 357 or 44 special in the 44 mag are nice to shoot, very economical, and easier on your guns. Also, if you didn't know, you can shoot 38 special brass in your 357 and 44 special brass in your 44 magnum if you have any of those on hand.
Sounds like you could be into Cowboy Action Shooting. I'm not. They may require cast bullets at low velocities.
Welcome to the fraternity.
Jim
It's always good to welcome another reloader.
I suggest that you try to locate powder and primers first before spending a lot on anything else. The lack of selection of powder and primers will dictate which cartridges you can start loading.
Best.
Alliant Universal can be used in place of Unique although it is not a direct substitute. I can't find any Universal either but it gives you two choices instead of just the one.
Best.
Be careful--have fun!
EDIT: It occurred to me that I should define "newer". I started reloading in the late 1950's and all dies even then were 7/8-14 thread except some Lymans for their tong tool and their tru-line jr. press. My first press was a Herter's and their shell holders were peculiar to their presses. Incidently, RCBS dies were $13.50 back then while Herters, Krupp/American, or Wells dies were less than half that. Herters got a lot of us old guys started in reloading.
I have only been re-loading for about 3 years now and only load for range use. And one question I would ask is the barrel lengths of the 38/357 and 44?
A few different lengths. I just figured 38/357 was a good place to start. I have a bunch. I will load some for target practice first but I do deer hunt with the 357 and 44mag (44 in a Ruger 96/44 rifle)
Smith 642 38sp. in 1 7/8"
Smith 10-8 38sp. in 4"
Ruger GP100 .357 in 4" and 6"
Ruger Redhawk 44mag in 5 3/4"
Marlin 1894 in 357 18.5"
Ruger 96/44 in 44mag. 18.5"
NEF Handi Rifles in both 357 and 44mag 20" ( i think)
I only ask because I have noted significant variations with UNIQUE because of barrel length. In 38 I have a Blackhawk in 6.5" a Rossi 972 in 6" and a Taurus 85 with a 2" barrel.
When I loaded UNIQUE at 5g and a 158 SWC (I use cast) I measured FPS as:
Blackhawk at 922 FPS
Rossi at 909 FPS
Taurus 85 at 557 FPS
I had similar results in 45C. My SA 1873 with 8.4g of Unique was 841 FPS and a Taurus PD with 9g was 578 FPS. So I tried a faster powder, Bullseye and 6.7g got 754 FPS from the PD. These were using 200g lead RNFP.
In 44 MAG I like 2400. It's a slower powder but has excellent visual effects.[:D]
The bullet puller is a must, you will wrinkle a case or two or somehow mess up once in a while and you will need to pull the bullet.
My only other recommendation is a digital scale, and if your kit doesn't have one, a dial caliper. I got a Frankfort Arsenal scale, and I have found it invaluable for checking powder dispenser accuracy and bullet weight consistency. ( once I even used it to separate a grab bag of mixed bullets I bought into their proper weights. I then used the calipers to determine caliber) The calipers are naturally used to check the overall length (OAL) of your loads.
Good luck!
I like my Lyman flash hole de-burring tool. The Forster case trimmer has served me well for many years. Their collet bullet is an excellent design also. I like case champhering tools that have a pin in the center of the outside flukes, saves finger poking.
Big +1 on this. I wasted time in the beginning with spray lubes and stuck cases. Not a single stuck since changing to this wax.
I use H110 powder for 44mag and 50 AE...really like it
Also, if loading for an AR15 or AR10 in the future, RCBS small base dies made a world of difference for me.