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.380 Beginner - Need suggestions.
gknaka2
Member Posts: 461 ✭✭✭
Just started reloading .380 due to fun of shooting it and the not so fun of factory loads costing a lot more than even 9mm (which defies logic).
Anyway, I bought some 100gr plated RN from Berry's and was wondering if anyone had any starting charge suggestions that are strong enough to cycle a rather heavy Taurus PT-58 slide but not blow up the gun. I have Bullseye and/or W231 to work with so want to be careful.
Thank you.
Anyway, I bought some 100gr plated RN from Berry's and was wondering if anyone had any starting charge suggestions that are strong enough to cycle a rather heavy Taurus PT-58 slide but not blow up the gun. I have Bullseye and/or W231 to work with so want to be careful.
Thank you.
Comments
Remember to find the start point and work up. and that there are three different typeS of "Clay" powders: Clays, International, and Universal Clays. DO NOT MISUNDERSTAND OR MIX DATA FOR THESE!
I do agree with your statement, however.
"Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads."
GH1[:)]
I have a 380 in a PPK style pistol.
You can use cast bullet load data as a starting point. Another suggestion is to use the starting loads for jacketed bullets reduced by 10%.
I started my 380 load developement by shooting ten to twenty rounds of factory ammo that had the same weight bullet I intended to reload with. I noted the ejection pattern and felt recoil, which when matched with reloads would be considered a safe maximum for the gun.
My experience with Berry bullets is they tend to copper foul pistol bores if the velocities are much over 900 to 950 fps. I find I can push the Rainier plated bullets a little faster without any problem. Also, the Berry bullets tend to vary as much as .002" in diameter which can mess up accuracy. The Rainier bullets have been very accurate with their diameter. All Rainier bullets are double struck to insure consistent diameters and Berry Bullets are single struck unless you clearly order double struck at a higher price.
The 95 grain bullet weight seems to be a standard weight for the 380. A 110 grain is pretty much maximum weight because anything heavier will usually cause the base of the bullet to be seated into the thicker part of the shell case causing a bulge ring that may cause failures to chamber fully.
The heavier bullet will cycle the gun easier. I have decided to stay with 95 grain bullets, plus or minus a few grains.
I am using the 93 grain Meister Hard Cast bullet with 2.8 to 3.0 grains of Unique and get good accuracy without leading. I tried Bullseye and Winchester 231, but I got some leading with both. I also use the 95 grain FMJ manufactured by Remington on top of 4.5 grains of AA 5 powder with good results.
Good luck with your loading and shooting.
GH1[:)]
I have found Lee's Modern Reloading 2nd ed. is a good starting place (despite its faults) as well as Hodgdon's website. The preferred load data for plated bullets is the same used or lead, but the only data I have been able to find is for powders that I do not have access to locally. Thus, the load data I have been using is for 100gr FMJ with a 10% reduction to the charge as suggested by Rainier's website.
Unfortunately the load data I have found for either Bullseye or 231 does not give much room for variance (about 0.3 between start and max) so I have been sticking to light and mid range loads. I have loaded some 380 with 2.9gr. of Bullseye, but have yet to test it. However, I have been having some success with 2.7 gr. of 231 I made for a friend's Kel-Tec P-3AT and Walther PPK. As these are fairly light pistols I don't know if they will cycle as well in your heavier Taurus.
I also have four other powder that I am experimenting with and am contemplating a purchasing a fifth. Thus far I have only tested titegroup, a powder that may be worth a look at if you are looking for economy in your target loads. It functions quite well (at 2.5 gr.) in my CZ-83, though preformed a little on the anemic side in my High Point CF380 (due primarily to the heavy slide). May increase charge in future loads by a tenth or two tenths of a grain. If you do decide to try this powder, make sure not to overcharge the case ("a little goes a long way").
I will post future test results from my powder experimentation when I am able to make it to the range.