In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

.380 Beginner - Need suggestions.

gknaka2gknaka2 Member Posts: 461 ✭✭✭
Just started reloading .380 due to fun of shooting it and the not so fun of factory loads costing a lot more than even 9mm (which defies logic).

Anyway, I bought some 100gr plated RN from Berry's and was wondering if anyone had any starting charge suggestions that are strong enough to cycle a rather heavy Taurus PT-58 slide but not blow up the gun. I have Bullseye and/or W231 to work with so want to be careful.

Thank you.

Comments

  • sandwarriorsandwarrior Member Posts: 5,453 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I went to 3.3 gr. of Clays for my daughters Bersa Thunder. The nature of that pistol is it doesn't like slow loads. Since I didn't have any moderate-fast pistol powders I went with a load of the fast Clays. Velocity with an 88 gr. bullet is around 920 fps. from that gun. Chrono'd not estimated.

    Remember to find the start point and work up. and that there are three different typeS of "Clay" powders: Clays, International, and Universal Clays. DO NOT MISUNDERSTAND OR MIX DATA FOR THESE!
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    For Bullseye use 3.0-3.3grs. Try 2.9-3.1grs. with 231.
  • mbsamsmbsams Member Posts: 1,076 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You better get a reloading manual or two - how will you double check the "word of mouth" data you are getting on this public forum. I am sure there could be no mistakes but....
  • gknaka2gknaka2 Member Posts: 461 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have several but the problem is there is no plated bullet data. I know others have used these powders with this particular bullet so wanted to get a good safe starting point.

    I do agree with your statement, however.
  • ToolfogieToolfogie Member Posts: 1,254 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    From Berry's website

    "Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads."
  • gregoryhart1gregoryhart1 Member Posts: 518 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you're looking to save even more money switch to cast bullets. My Bersa handles 100 gr truncated cone with no problem. I've also shot 95 gr RNFP with no issues. Given the small charges & low velocity leading is practically nonexistant.
    GH1[:)]
  • gknaka2gknaka2 Member Posts: 461 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Would love to use cast but can't due to range restrictions.
  • mbsamsmbsams Member Posts: 1,076 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    One thing to keep in mind with this round or any of the "low pressure" calibers is that while "working up" loads you will never see any pressure signs - visible pressure signs don't start until you hit bottleneck rifle load pressures - with the low pressure pistol rounds all you can do is ensure proper and reliable cycling and when you get to MAX in the reloading manual you just have to stop. If you ever do see a pressure sign in one of these low pressure jobs, you and your gun are in real trouble. Trust the books!
  • 03lover03lover Member Posts: 67 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    gknaka2,

    I have a 380 in a PPK style pistol.

    You can use cast bullet load data as a starting point. Another suggestion is to use the starting loads for jacketed bullets reduced by 10%.

    I started my 380 load developement by shooting ten to twenty rounds of factory ammo that had the same weight bullet I intended to reload with. I noted the ejection pattern and felt recoil, which when matched with reloads would be considered a safe maximum for the gun.

    My experience with Berry bullets is they tend to copper foul pistol bores if the velocities are much over 900 to 950 fps. I find I can push the Rainier plated bullets a little faster without any problem. Also, the Berry bullets tend to vary as much as .002" in diameter which can mess up accuracy. The Rainier bullets have been very accurate with their diameter. All Rainier bullets are double struck to insure consistent diameters and Berry Bullets are single struck unless you clearly order double struck at a higher price.

    The 95 grain bullet weight seems to be a standard weight for the 380. A 110 grain is pretty much maximum weight because anything heavier will usually cause the base of the bullet to be seated into the thicker part of the shell case causing a bulge ring that may cause failures to chamber fully.

    The heavier bullet will cycle the gun easier. I have decided to stay with 95 grain bullets, plus or minus a few grains.

    I am using the 93 grain Meister Hard Cast bullet with 2.8 to 3.0 grains of Unique and get good accuracy without leading. I tried Bullseye and Winchester 231, but I got some leading with both. I also use the 95 grain FMJ manufactured by Remington on top of 4.5 grains of AA 5 powder with good results.

    Good luck with your loading and shooting.
  • gknaka2gknaka2 Member Posts: 461 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    great info, thanks
  • gregoryhart1gregoryhart1 Member Posts: 518 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use AA # 2 in my .380 loads. I find it to be a nice, clean powder.
    GH1[:)]
  • gknaka2gknaka2 Member Posts: 461 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Went to the range last night to test out 3.0 gr Bullseye. Recoil was somewhat sharp but nice accuracy.
  • rustinpieces82rustinpieces82 Member Posts: 1 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    This is my first time on GB's forum and I have been only reloading for a couple of months, however I thought that I would throw out my own experience from working with 380 100gr. plated bullets in the hopes that it may help.

    I have found Lee's Modern Reloading 2nd ed. is a good starting place (despite its faults) as well as Hodgdon's website. The preferred load data for plated bullets is the same used or lead, but the only data I have been able to find is for powders that I do not have access to locally. Thus, the load data I have been using is for 100gr FMJ with a 10% reduction to the charge as suggested by Rainier's website.
    Unfortunately the load data I have found for either Bullseye or 231 does not give much room for variance (about 0.3 between start and max) so I have been sticking to light and mid range loads. I have loaded some 380 with 2.9gr. of Bullseye, but have yet to test it. However, I have been having some success with 2.7 gr. of 231 I made for a friend's Kel-Tec P-3AT and Walther PPK. As these are fairly light pistols I don't know if they will cycle as well in your heavier Taurus.

    I also have four other powder that I am experimenting with and am contemplating a purchasing a fifth. Thus far I have only tested titegroup, a powder that may be worth a look at if you are looking for economy in your target loads. It functions quite well (at 2.5 gr.) in my CZ-83, though preformed a little on the anemic side in my High Point CF380 (due primarily to the heavy slide). May increase charge in future loads by a tenth or two tenths of a grain. If you do decide to try this powder, make sure not to overcharge the case ("a little goes a long way").

    I will post future test results from my powder experimentation when I am able to make it to the range.
Sign In or Register to comment.